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Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully |
23 R
Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. |
8 R
★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area |
Bum Rocks
The bulgy buttress 30m L of King Rat Gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks |
11
Fireman Don't Got Convictions
Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height. Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock. |
18
★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof. Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney. |
16
★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam. Start: Start 1m R of GM. |
16
Cling On
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall. |
22
Fingersmith
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete. Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack. |
15
Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy. Start: Start 1m R of F. |
13
Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear. |
12
★ Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding
Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove. Start: Start on the R side of the crag. |
11
★★ Bottoms Up
Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding. |
11
★ Wash Your Hands
Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch). |
13
Back Passage
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area |
King Rat Gully
A shady area with quality climbing. Good on a hot day. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Slander Wall
The small cliff on the L of the gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall |
19
When Mark Was King
Bouldery start. Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall. |
21
That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete. Start: Start just R of WMWK. |
16
Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner. Start: Start just R of arete. |
13
★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur. |
13
Rat Trap
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock. |
19
Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier! Start: Start at the arete R of RT. |
24
Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. |
18
Speedy Lou
The crack. Start: Start R of CLCP2. |
16
Compost Corner
Up then step L and follow the continuation. Start: Start 2m R of SL. |
9
Gri Grieving
Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen. |
7
Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. |
14
Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Left Fork
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork |
21
★★ Feel It Closing In
Good face climbing past BR into crack. Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right. |
27
★ Spinning Around the Drain
Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27. |
24
★★ A Loaded Gun
Flakes to BR then R and up. Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'. |
26
Lazaretto
A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs. |
22 R
Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner. Start: Start ~20m R of ALG. |
25
Lord of the Midgets
L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20. Start: Start R of MRS. |
18
Deception
Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs. Start: Start 4m L of BL. |
24
Brotherly Love
This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers. Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD. |
18
★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first. Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge. |
18
★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first. Start: Start as for IaLD. |
21
Terrordactyl
Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid. Start: Start as for IaLD. |
14
I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings. |
17
Ed's Super Sarnie
Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected. Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'. |
15
★ Scylla
An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. |
16
★★ Scylla Alt Finish
A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish. |
15
★ Charybdis
Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.
|
15
Hey There Little Insect
As for C for 10m then R and up arete. Start: Start as for C. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Right Fork
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork |
23
Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. |
23 R
Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. |
23
★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. |
22
★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds. Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF. |
18
★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line. Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp. |
21
★ Rats in the Ranks
Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off. |
23 R
★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. |
23
Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). |
22
Maternity Wear
Sustained face and crack with good wires. Start: Start 3m R of K. |
22
Furry Bathtubs
A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star. Start: Start R of MW. |
23
★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003. Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Rye Wall
The steep orange wall at the top of the gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall |
17
★ Catcher
The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base. |
24
Wasters in Love
The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now. |
15
Harley's Climb
The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left. |
15
Jungleland
On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Wittgenstein Walls
Finding this will be left as an exercise for the serious explorer; not that it's existence is in doubt. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls |
17
Tractatus Logica Ludicrous
The thin seam. Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner. |
13
Kick the Ladder Down After You
Takes a line of jugs. Start: Start 1m left of TLL. |
10
Two Years In A Shed In Norway
It is not just the name of this one that is obscure. Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner. |
15
Two Years on a Nork in Shedway
Up middle of face. Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Serious Young Lizards Wall
100m R of Rye Wall Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall |
9
Tingles
Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'. |
12
Pied Piper
Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given. |
14
Rat Cracker
Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards' |
18
Serious Young Lizards
Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name. |
15
Rat Cat
Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Marx Wall
Small, clean yellowish-grey wall with mostly well-protected lines in the easier grades. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall |
14
Chico
Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack. |
4
Harpo
Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall. |
12
Groucho
Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required). |
11
Gummo
Line 1m R of Groucho. |
13
★ Zeppo
Crack 1.5m R of Gummo. |
10
Karl
Cracks 2m R of Zeppo, 3m L of R edge of wall. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Upper SkyDiver
A small wall just just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth visiting for the shade. Two climbs by Bert Levy are included here as the approach notes say : "Going up King Rat Gully it splits near Catcher follow the right fork. The following routes are on the left wall." However the climbs have not been positively identified. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver |
16
Trapped Like a Rat In a Corner
An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner. |
16
Ratatouille
The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'. |
18
Chalk Talk
This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall. |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully |
Skydiver Wall
The Face on the R as you enter the gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall |
21
★ Smile
Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed). |
19 R
★ Coke Adds Life
Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge. |
23 R
★ Even More Moves
Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in. |
22
★★ Free Admission
Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves. |
22
★★ Easy Does It
After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam. |
19
★ Candy-O
Face, around L side of block, wall above. Start: Start 1m L of R. |
15
★ Retardation
The crack, moving R at overhang. Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack. |
22
★ Spasticus Autisticus
It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway. Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. |
25 X
★★ Elmer Thud
Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt! Start: Start 2m R of R. |
23
The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack. Start: Start off the R end of the ledge. |
24
★★ Slap Strafe Jerk
Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt. Start: Start as for TOR. |
26
★★ Sustained Metaphor
A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily. |
25
★ Mixed Metaphor
VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's. |
21
★★ Skydiver
Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor. Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner. |