Nodes in Oceania

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

The bulgy buttress 30m L of King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

A shady area with quality climbing. Good on a hot day.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

The small cliff on the L of the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

Finish up blunt arete.

Start: Start just R of WMWK.

The thin corner.

Start: Start just R of arete.

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

Up then step L and follow the continuation.

Start: Start 2m R of SL.

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it.

Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner.

Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge.

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Good face climbing past BR into crack.

Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.

Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs.

Unprotected black streak, then corner.

Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.

Start: Start 4m L of BL.

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.

Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected.

Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'.

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

1. 15m (15) The R crack to the ledge.

2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.

Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.

Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.

Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.

The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt

Start: Start R of KR.

Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).

Sustained face and crack with good wires.

Start: Start 3m R of K.

A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.

Start: Start R of MW.

Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.

Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.

The steep orange wall at the top of the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base.

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

Finding this will be left as an exercise for the serious explorer; not that it's existence is in doubt.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

The thin seam.

Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

It is not just the name of this one that is obscure.

Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

100m R of Rye Wall

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Small, clean yellowish-grey wall with mostly well-protected lines in the easier grades.

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall.

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

Line 1m R of Groucho.

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

Cracks 2m R of Zeppo, 3m L of R edge of wall.

A small wall just just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth visiting for the shade. Two climbs by Bert Levy are included here as the approach notes say : "Going up King Rat Gully it splits near Catcher follow the right fork. The following routes are on the left wall." However the climbs have not been positively identified.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.

The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.

This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.

The Face on the R as you enter the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed).

Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge.

Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.

Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves.

After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam.

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide.

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.