Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
12 | crack the crack
still no gear but climb the easy seam on the right side of the overhang section. FA: Harrie Van de Linde, 20 Mar | 10m | Ayers Rock | ||
18 | ★ over and out
climb short slab then to overhang and traverse up left to change. climb uo and slab above. Has minimal gear on second half after lip FA: Harrie Van de Linde, 10 Mar | 10m | Ayers Rock | ||
16 | Arrested development
Toprope the wall in between 2 sport routes, Fool's Errand & Heinzenator, from the Fool's Errand anchor. | Mt Ngungun | |||
16 | ★ Pinch Perfect
follow brown streak up the wall just right of crack feature mainly pinch holds, no gear FA: Harrie Van de Linde, 28 Feb | 10m | North Ridge Reserve | ||
18 | ★★★ Fun in the sun
Top rope from tree house anchor. Head up right of tree house (right of tree) up the arete then take to shelf back to end at tree house. FA: 19 Jul 2022 | Albury Quarry | |||
19 | Starfish Navigation
grotty first couple of moves lead to a grippy black slab above. directly left of TSP. currently no bolts so TR only. climb TSP and set up anchor if you want to climb currently. FA: Alek Gough, 28 Jan | 15m | Nerriga | ||
15 | Kevins Crack
Go up the main leftward trending crack. Set top rope anchors. Leave the lichen alone. | Charlotte Pass | |||
22 | ★ The Arête
Climb up the arete, minimise climbing too far right. Would make for a bad ass highball over snow in winter. | Charlotte Pass | |||
15 | Dobble
A short easy top rope slab. | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
24 | The Mall's Falls
The unbolted line in between Little Rundle St and Trundle Down Rundle. Veer left and then thin cruxy moves to move right into Trundle just before Little Rundle St does. FA: Mike Garrett, 20 Dec 2020 | 20m | Norton Summit | ||
Warwick's project
Up the yellow streak towards the the solitary pine tree. Maint: Warwick Davis, 29 May 2022 | 40m | Pest control | |||
22 | ★ Tac Tic Toe
A crimpy face with a lot of flexing holds, climb delicately to leave some holds for the next climber FA: Ben Vincent, 26 Aug 2023 | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
15 | Good Ol' Gold Nut
Start left of Choss Norris. up the face to the ledge. Then smash through to the top. No.4 placement is useless don't bother. FA: Alek Gough, 22 Jul 2023 | 7m | Queanbeyan area | ||
20 | ★★ Directissima toprope
A worthwhile top rope problem. Climb the bouldery wall between Pandora and Crack Climb and continue straight up on the headwall right of Crack Climb with balancy moves until reaching left at the offwidth. Bottom section might be possible in trad, but the top is unprotectable and too close to other routes to put a bolt FA: (Jeroen Jansen 7/2023 but likely done by someone else earlier) | 25m | Freycinet National Park | ||
21 | Unnamed Route 2
The face to the right of finger puppets, thin fingery climb with little to no foot placement. done on Top Rope due to little protection for a trad route. Set: Steve Beyer, 2021 | 6m | The Apostles | ||
15 | School Teacher Alt Start
Alt start to School Teacher. Using overhung slants approx 5m right of normal start. Then up slab to school teacher finish. One move wonder, pumpy off the ground. Done by redirecting a top rope using an alpine draw on old bolt to the left of deputy head. No discernible trad pro for the first move to make this mixed trad. FA: Tom Etheridge, 22 May 2023 | 20m | Robin Falls | ||
14 | ★★★ Gmork
Up corner, mantle roof, top out. | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
13 | ★★★ Atreyu
Up sharp arete, through blank face, top out through crack (where the tree currently is). | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
13 | Luck Dragon
Needs some cleaning | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
12 | ★★★ Morla the Ancient One
Right side of face, just left of arete. | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
21 | ★★ Shimmy to the top
Same start for Shimmy the Mast, then mostly straight up between A Capsized Audience an Hard to Port staying on the face without using the block on the start of Hard to Port. Assigned grade waiting for repeat suggestions before firming up. | 10m | Diamond Head | ||
21 | ★★ Pull Apart
Climb up into the brain and head left to two small crimps then reach for an under cling in the roof to rest. Move left around the arete and the 2nd roof, RH side crimp on up high and LH gaston to get a high right foot to step up to a jug and smooth reachy climbing to the top. FA: Ethan Penck, 22 Mar 2023 Set: Toby Nichols, 22 Mar 2023 | 19m | Morialta | ||
13 | ★ Tooth Hurty
Climb directly up the sandy coloured rap-line. | 12m | Inner Melbourne | ||
16 | ★★ Nibiru
Up to a shallow corner moving left at the top. | 8m | Inner Melbourne | ||
18 | Skinny Mini
Thin moves up a seemingly blank face with a small vertical crack. | 8m | Inner Melbourne | ||
12 | ★ Shorty
Climb straight up thru protruding blocks low down moving right at the top. | 8m | Inner Melbourne | ||
11 | The biggest bush you've ever seen
Start Left of They're everywhere, up the left 'corner' of the cave, pass up just left through the chossy bush. Edge out underneath and left of the cave, and should be able to find a dimple for your right foot. Top out at left tree. Tying anchor Walk up left side, path to trees above to anchor with rope. FA: Chabis, 25 Jan 2023 | 10m | Point Clare | ||
21 | Sand Spanking New
Follow diagonal line. New climb every time a piece is taken off. FA: Marcus Saye, 20 Jan 2023 | 10m | Bruny Island | ||
16 | Lcrack
Layback up the flared crack to meet "Scrack" at the last bolt, shared anchor. | 11m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | ||
14 | Return of the Crumb Right
Start as for 'Return of the Crumb' but continue out diagonally right away from the crack on good smaller face holds. FA: Tim Hall, 29 Dec 2022 | South Coast | |||
18 | ★ Turtle Magic
Start as for 'Holding Cell' but continue straight up the obvious overhanging splitter crack for some fun (if short) overhanging jams and laybacks. FA: Tim Hall, 29 Dec 2022 | 10m | South Coast | ||
12 | Holding Cell
Bouldery start up towards the big crack before heading left up the face for a slightly crimpy top. FA: Cellestine Janiola, 28 Dec 2022 | 10m | South Coast | ||
14 | Return of the Crumb
Easy laybacking up crack on solid rock. FA: Cellestine Janiola, 29 Dec 2022 | 8m | South Coast | ||
13 | The Crumb
Easy stemming or climbing up obvious middle crack FA: Marley Faulkner, 29 Dec 2022 | 8m | South Coast | ||
13 | Goona (Sh*t)
Watch where you put your feet. Slab practice - holds optional | 7m | Bouddi National Park | ||
15 | Burranburran (Centipede)
Use all your feet to slither up the slab FA: Simon Leo, 11 Dec 2022 | 6m | Bouddi National Park | ||
15 | Burrudir (Butterfly)
Stretch your wings and stick those delicate feet FA: Simon Leo, 10 Dec 2022 | 8m | Bouddi National Park | ||
17 | ★ And Another Thing
Left most area on the trilogy slab, good crimps up keeping left of the side wall FA: Peter Hamnett | 15m | APY Lands | ||
15 | Mostly Harmless
Centre line on the trilogy slab. Rejoins with "And Another Thing" at the top overhang. FA: Peter Hamnett | 15m | APY Lands | ||
13 | Restaurant at the End of the Universe
Far end of the trilogy slab area. Tricky start either bridging on the back wall or leaning over from the shallow crack. Easy work up the cracked ramp after. Stop at the top of the ramp or traverse to join with other routes for the overhang. FA: Peter Hamnett | APY Lands | |||
24 | The Pining Parrot
Start as for The Dead Albatross to first bolt, then left to stay left side of arete . Continue up past two little triangular rooflettes. No basalt or bridging to be left. Set up as toprope for now - use fixed hangers backed up with trad, or bolt plates at top of Bicycle Graveyard, or both. Set: John Hollott | 14m | Iris Moore Park | ||
20 | Cracked Monkey
Essentially the easier mix-tape variant of Cracked It and Cocky Monkey. Start left up the corner to stepped arete left of CM, continuing up the corner crack once past the roof. Good as a toprope off the hex bolt anchor. | 18m | Iris Moore Park | ||
19 | Code Pink
Starts 1m left of landmark corner of “Out of Lockdown”. Climbs direct up the wall to blank slab above ledge height. Tend right to join “Return to Lockdown” for the final few metres. Project. No bolts please. Set: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie | 10m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | ★ Return to Lockdown
Starts 2m right of “Out of Lockdown”. Up arete of block and up to ledge. From ledge, up the main face to top. Project. No bolts please. Set: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie | 10m | Halls Gap Area | ||
22 | Code Blue
Starts 3m right of “Labour Day”. Up wall past small feature, following cleanest rock to highest point. Project. No bolts please. Set: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie | 10m | Halls Gap Area | ||
Warwick's project 2 | 40m | Pest control | |||
19 | ★★ Papillon
Belay point set up, for top rope only. Access via the arrete. Be aware about friction on sharp edges. Great line with light overhang and slab FA: Warwick Davis, 16 Sep 2022 | 30m | Pest control | ||
Lumpy Pineapple | 30m | Pest control | |||
18 | ★ Trip wire
Delicate slab climbing linking into the 3rd bolt of 'Cross wired' FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
23 | Defender of the Phish
The face and slab on the front of the buttress to the right of Albatross has been climbed on top-rope. A decision was made not to bolt this due to its proximity to Albatross. Still worthwhile having a play though if you're at the anchor. Run the rope over the front of the buttress, and climb Albatross until at the base of the crack. Step right and up from here and follow the tricky face and delicate slab/groove above, finishing through the short crack to the anchor. FA: Martin Brown, Aug 2022 | 30m | Lowdina | ||
14 | ★★★ Stupid Bat
Up the left side of the arete next to The Nothing. | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
20 | ★ Mossy Arete
The arete to the right of UYW. Follow arete to the top. FA: 3 Aug 2022 | 7m | Mount Kembla | ||
22 | ★ Alternative News
Left hand start to FN, hard start to left facing corner then finish right up FN. | 17m | Kwiamble National Park | ||
23 | ★★ Clean Slate
Start on a small pedestal on the left near the falls then up seam to traverse 2m right on polished slab then up on edges. Could be a bold DWS if conditions were right. | 20m | Kwiamble National Park | ||
20 | Blown Away
The slab and shallow groove above. The crux requires creativity rather than desperation. 5 RB to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Dena Rao, Dec ’11 | 18m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
17 | Parallel Cracks
The twin parallel cracks 2 m L of BA. The start is a bit tenuous (crux) but the rest is an absolute delight. Use a #3 Camalot for trad belay or use the lower-offs of SD. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Apr ’11 | 18m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
19 | Single Dimension
Just R of the chimney lies this cunning slab, which is sure to test your footwork and nerve, especially if you are short! 6 GFH to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Apr ’11 | 18m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
18 | Silhouette
This photogenic route takes the pinnacle L of the chimney. Well featured climbing past 4 GFH to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Nov ’11 | 15m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
22 | Test of Sterone
One for the connoisseur! From Silhouette descend for 8 m along the boulder base, then traverse 4 m on under-clings onto rock ledge. In the back of it lurks this overhanging off-width crack. Bring two #4 Camalots and some smaller cams. After exiting R at the top continue up slab for 4 m to lower-offs just L of giant hole. Ross Weiter, Dec ’11 | 16m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
10 | Scramble
Corner crack scramble at the LHS of the craglet FA: Unknown | Narrabri | |||
19 | Vision of Ladies
Up wall between Lady Jayne and Vision of Fools without straying into either FA: Brendan Goossens, 2019 | 12m | Staughton Vale | ||
14 | ★★ Atmosfear
Find the memorial cairn just above the corner of the bay near the start of the the Thistle cove walk. Wander up the slabs behind the cairn trending left to a low point on the skyline about 100m west of the tip of the headland. You should find a large cave on the ocean side below the crest with a faintly ludicrous traverse along an obvious ledge above the cave. Start from the slab below the ledge. Belay off large cam in pocket. Climb right to a ‘step over the void’ move and then follow the ledge rightwards past a groove (alternate finish at grade 12) till it terminates at some obvious flakes and orange smoothness. Clamber on top of the flakes and up the wall. Belay off nuts and cams and/or a tree on the crest. A great little adventure. Ed Nepia 27.1.11 | 25m | Cape Le Grand NP | ||
18 | The Face of Faye
Down on the main ledge, the leftmost line up the steep and smooth face. Brilliant climbing, which from the ground looks unlikely. Go slightly left from the start to gain the large sidepulls then back right and up the crack near the top. Doesn’t look protectable from the ground, hence it was not led. But on TR the gear was found to be adequate if you are very confident at the grade. (AWAITING FA!) | 15m | Faye Bluff | ||
15 | ★ Don't drop me Will!
The line goes up between Number two and Wodka, all the way to the small V at the top overhang. Sit/squat start as low as possible, move to hand size square jug, follow vertical edge to a couple spread out jugs, (be careful I minimised usage of holds from Wodka, we only used one), then crimp up to small overhang and through the small V. Top out is optional but must finish standing ontop of overhang. Note: If you use no holds from either climb it might be considered a 16. NA: Alex Casar, 22 May 2022 NA: Rio B, 22 May 2022 NA: Will Hosking, 22 May 2022 NA: Steele, 22 May 2022 FA: Tarik Vann, 22 May 2022 | 12m | Inner Melbourne | ||
23 | Percival
Right side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of the wall. Left of scar-like feature to pocket and straight up past the horizontal break. Top section is likely much harder if not tall. | 6m | Kingsley Beach | ||
17 | Aldeberon
Keep left of the corner all the way. Crux is half way up. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
19 | Crimson Dynamo
Straight up and over the ripple (crux) (Photo 7). Direct to top (Photo 8). FA: | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
18 | Granita
Up wall keeping right of Original Route, being careful not to use any of its handholds. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
12 | Original Route
Marked as "W". Up along the obvious natural line of weakness. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
13 | Flesh
Straight up. Above half way keep on the boundary between the light and dark rock. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
13 | Anteus
Straight up through the overhang being careful not to veer left or right onto S or F. This is probably a route done by Caffyn and Cais but never named. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
10 | Starters
Straight up through the overhang, keeping just right of the edge. | 28m | Old Keperra Quarry | ||
21 | Single Slit Interference
Use trad anchor and follow side-pull features on south wall opposite Dire Straits. FACE only. | 8m | The Slot | ||
14 | Honeycomb
Start at bottom left edge of the large flake beside Mud Slice and follow the edge of the flake up and right to lower offs. | 9m | The Hive | ||
Buzz Kill
Start in the same spot as Honeycomb, but head up the face of the flake instead. | 7m | The Hive | |||
Unknown
Top rope anchors over top of wall, if anyone has information about this climb, it would be greatly appreciated if they could share it here. | The Hive | ||||
14 | ★ TR4
A lot of this route might be Graven Image but the TR version is direct. Start below the large accumulation of guano at half height as per Graven Image then directly up passing through or just to the right of the peregrine's commode. Finishes midway between the 2 leftmost U-bolts on top (looking out). | 26m | Staughton Vale | ||
16 | ★ TR3
The face between the 2 commandments direct. | 26m | Staughton Vale | ||
19 | ★★★ Left Slab
Slabby face 4m left of Central Crack. Thin and technical, fun climbing. Escape left to arete when the face blanks out. | 20m | Mt Canobolas | ||
Project | 8m | Inner Melbourne | |||
13 | ★★★ Scallywag
5m to the right of Bottle full of brains is an easy climb that leads up to the start of Silly duffer very fun, juggy climbing. Grade can be made easier by starting further left, becomes harder the further right you go. FA: Alec Eastwood & Naomi Eastwood, 19 Mar 2022 | 25m | Gibraltar Rock | ||
17 | ★★ Bottle Full of Brains
further down the falls, is this short slabby route, small hands and feet, on a nice angle creates some nice movement and a fun route FA: Alec Eastwood, 19 Mar 2022 | 15m | Gibraltar Rock | ||
Top Rope wall
Tall wall with some fun top rope problems on it | Albany | ||||
17 | ★ Una Paloma Blanca
Start 2m left of U2 and climb straight up past a good hold on the left circled by a pale yellow graffiti letter 'O'. FA: 19 Mar 2022 | 7m | Inner Melbourne | ||
10 | Right Side
TR anchor off tree and natural gear. | 8m | Mt Canobolas | ||
10 | Left side
Low angle easy slab. 2 FHs anchor | 8m | Mt Canobolas | ||
27 - 29 | Hot Mess Gladdys Project
unbolted face with DBB | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
15 | ★ TR1
Climb directly up to left hand ring bolt at top starting 2m left of TR2. Finish left of a carrot bolt which is set just left of a vertical seam at the top. | 26m, 1 | Staughton Vale | ||
15 | ★ TR2
Top Rope route straight up to finish just right of right hand ring bolt. There are some chopped bolts en route and you should pass an oddly placed carrot set in an alcove just to your right near the top. | 26m, 1 | Staughton Vale | ||
20 | ★ Barwick's benevolence
the slab with the best quality rock on the left side of the cliff. sling the tree on top of the cliff. nice sustained climbing on crimps, pockets and slopers, harder than it looks FA: Tim Smith & Jeroen Jansen, 27 Jan 2022 | 25m | Claremont | ||
15 | ★ U-HAUL
The corner right of U2. | 10m | Inner Melbourne | ||
21 | Polka Dots
To the right of ATS with a bit of a swing, using the same anchor. Start at the slab with the large lichen polka dots, right side pulls, up to crux traverse to access the seeping crack, following this to ledge then left to join ATS at the last big ledge. | 20m | Perisher Blue | ||
19 | Guthrie of Bega
Right of TTINAA using same anchor - right hand side of the slab following the drill hole lines, to the right of the top block. | 10m | Perisher Blue | ||
20 | Boxing Day Test Piece
Slab start into shallow finger crack on the left side of the crag. A good rest half way up on a small ledge. As the finger crack runs out traverse to the right and up into a number of small crimps on the face which constituted the crux before a slabby finish. FA: Mark Shorter, 2020 | 35m | South Coast | ||
15 | Riverside Ramble
Start on the ground at the left end, below the arete. Straight up via the large jug. FA: Ned Webster, Dec 2021 | 5m | Tambourine Bay | ||
18 | ★ Winnie and Tuk
Short and pumpy. Start 5m left of Utju Kutju, around the arete. Lean and lay back up the angled crack. Solid most of the way up. FA: Oska, 12 Dec 2021 | 12m | APY Lands | ||
16 | ★★ Psicotico direct
Use Psicotico rings or carrots just to the left. Work you way up diagonal crimp rail. Reach for slopers at horizontal break then jugs to the top. FA: Unknown | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
23 | ★ In a Monologue
Starts 2m left of PP. Up through thinness to mono, then right to good rail and finish as for BS. Leaving as a top rope due to the flaky nature of the holds. FA: Luke Yerbury & John Hollott, 5 Oct 2021 | 8m | Glenrock Lagoon | ||
20 | ★★ In a Sea of Sunflowers - Variant 2
Up 'Tar She Blows' then traverse below the lip of the cliff. Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope. FA: Brendon Flanagan, 30 Sep 2021 | 7 | Blues Point | ||
16 | In a Sea of Sunflowers - Variant 1
Up Thar She Blows followed by traversing the very top of the cliff. Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope. FA: Maddie Stevie, 26 Sep 2021 | 7 | Blues Point |