Routes as trad in Oceania

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

Near over hanging belay ledge, traverse out or start form below, avoid dirty and loose rocks up slabs before no hands rest and then slightly chossy but good roof walk off from below roof possible.

the offwidth

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

The thin seam.

Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

It is not just the name of this one that is obscure.

Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

From the base of the buttress L of Yasser. 3rd Pitch Steps down to the R and ascents short corner (this last pitch could be done in it's own right by rapping down 30m from the rap chains).

An enjoyable mixed trad and carrot bolt slab climb on good friction slab.

-Pitch 1 ~40m, grade 12: Start on the block 3-6m left of the descent line and head directly upwards to a double carrot bolt anchor. Multiple good pieces of pro along the way, no carrot bolts. Avoid using the bolt on Endless Summer which is 4-5m to the left.

-Pitch 2 ~40m, grade 14: Continue from double bolt belay upwards for 4-5m then ever so slightly to the left before heading back towards the short shallow let facing corner. From here head up and slightly back to the left until a ledge on which a natural anchor can be constructed in the crack. Again various trad gear available and without carrot bolts.

-Pitch 3 ~40m, grade 13: Head directly up from ledge past multiple carrot bolts and staying to the left of the darker moss, flattens out over the bulge to a double hanger belay.

-Pitch 4 ~30m, grade 13: Head up and slightly to the left on easy territory, staying well to the right of the vegetated crack. Over the lip and then on easy ground to the rappel anchors.

Start of the foot of the buttress, at pronounced water streak.

Starts at the L most black streak on the face 30m up the gully right of the toe of the buttress.

Clean rock and great 2nd pitch. From the base of peeping Tom, scramble down and R through scrub and down to the base of a large grey slab. Last pitch finishes L wards towards the abseil descent.

Obvious crack, right hand side of wall is the first route if you approach from Seal wall Left side. This whole ledge is prone to very large waves,

A shallow corner angles right.

Crimpy steep start to slab, clip RB, Romp up slab, poor trad, to expposed finish on an arête 2nd ring bolt.

The next crack line Left of Bull Kelp. Up to where crack goes R). But traverse L) onto arête and finish as for absticle.

L) end of wall. Directly up a steep well protected corner exposed traverse R) for two meters and up. The direct finish though roof is much better.

Bridge and stretch your way up the corner, then head left under the block.

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really.

The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block.

Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left?

Prominent corner crack on left of cliff.

Right of CP is a terrace. Right leaning hand crack that splits face.

Line right of Haemorrhage.

Crazy Moon 240m 18

1. 40m 13 Hard start moves lead to easy angled slab. Straight up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

2. 40m 18 Up slight groove in slab 15m right of right facing vegetated corner. Knifeblade at 5m, then trend right through hard unprotected moves to more gear in narrow vertical crack. Continue straight up before traversing left to base of left facing corner and fig belay.

3. 10m 15 Left facing corner capped by vegetated crack. Block belay.

4. 55m 18 Traverse right to hanging block (fixed piton) then up run out slab to horizontal overlap. Trend left to belay at left land side of 2m high roof.

5. 45m 17 Step left and up left facing corner then out left onto slab. Up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

6. 50m 17 Left to arete on right side of ephemeral waterfall. Up clean rock until possible to step right onto right leaning slab. Trend right past loose blocks to ledge and spear lilly belay. At this point the good climbing ends and best option would be to rap to eastern side of watercourse and descend via gully. If summit fever calls, the following 2 pitches get you to the top. A cleaner option would be to head left across the watercourse, through a spear lilly ledge to nice looking slabs. It looked possible to thread a line through some scattered spear lillys to the top.

7. 60m V2 (V is a proposed vegetation grade) Trend right through steep spear lilly horror show to belay beneath next rock.

8. 30m 12 Over unprotected rock buttress to vegetated niche then trend right on slab to ridge. At this point you are on the ridge that forms the eastern end of the Wollumbin Shield. A narrow ridge with bits of scrub and rock lead for about 250m to the ridgetop. Follow upper ridge to descent gully to west.

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.

1. 30m (18) Phil Box (rope solo) At first pitch rap anchor of escension step right behind bushes and into a fist size crack. Up easily behind the spear lilly to be confronted with the first steep slab of the new route. Clip piton and traverse right along a good ledge to the weakness on right hand end of ledge. Directly up the weakness and onto low angle slab. Up slab to steep wall. Look for water runnels for protection up high. Follow these to corner and double bolt belay.

2. 35m (19) Phil Box, Brad Carmady, Josh Combes. From belay, traverse right for aprox. 3 metres and up obvious weakness. Step onto low angle slab and then step back left to directly over belay. Up Arete with poor gear to protect crux to gain a very good piece of protection. From here go directly up until one is in line with an obvious large ledge and spear lilly. Traverse about 6 metres right past the spear lilly to Fixe Ring Chain Belay on the wall at this ledge.

3. 30m (17) Brad Carmady Josh Combes, Phil Box. Traverse 4 metres right, then up and awkwardly step right onto slab. Up slab towards roof then traverse left under overlap to natural belay in obvious crack in right facing corner.

4. 40m (16) Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step up overlap then traverse left along spear lily ledge before heading up slabs left of large hanging block. Up wide layback then up to steep overlap before going slightly right on slabs to large spear lily ledge. Tree belay on right hand side. This could be a great bivy ledge if benightment a possibility.

5. 30m (16) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. Straight up from tree belay using the large crack formed by a tremendous gendarme. At top of gendarme trend right across steep slab (orange Alien size pro protects these moves) to corner and crack system. Trend back left on crack system, up behind spikey bush and into short chimney and on up the obvious crack system. Belay before obvious crack peters out.

6. 50m (16)Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step right and up through groove. Back left following line of weakness through slabs to under large blocks. Head straight up on stepped slabs to just under line of spear lillys. Either traverse left and up or straight through overhangs to poor spear lilly belay.

7. (3) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. 40 metres of spear lilly swimming to gain walk down ridge. Walk down to the right keeping the top of cliffline visible more or less. Encounter the obvious saddle and turn right to walk down obvious descent gully back to camp.

Start: Corner crack immediately L of clump of trees. 1, 2, 3 Follow obvious crack/corner system - cannot remember much more about it.

Two top pitches compensate for the first. Start: In gully hidden behind large clump of trees.

1. 28m Up left crack to tree, then left.

2. 38m Corner crack immediately above gully.

3. 34m Corner crack then as will to top.

Details of route unknown except for diagram in B.Allens guidebook. It is probably that Orchgasm and Orchid Route are the same climb.

Follow grade rather than line. Start: Base of Orchid Gully - unmarked.

1. 35m Up corner 10 metres, traverse right then up. Pass two pitons on right to ledge.

2. 25m Up wall 7 metres, traverse right to arete and crack, up. Across to ledge.

3. 20m Up to steep crack, onto slab left of nose.

4. 20m Up corner, traverse to end of nose. Around corner and up.

Good climbing in a great situation. Start: In fig tree at base of Central Butress

1. 30m Up to top of tree.

2. 15m Up crack to bulge, left 3 metres, then diagonally right to crack and ledge.

3. 25m (crux) Up as you will.

4. 15m Up short wall then right to small ledge.

5. and

6. 40m Up to top.

Good looking crack, overgrown at present. Start: About 10m left of, and 7m down gully from Hercules.

1. 30m Steep wall and thin cracks to small ledge.

2. 30m Up to where cracks become choked. Up on blocks and flakes on wall to ledge.

3. 30m (crux) Crack behind to top of pinnacle. Crack above is strenuous.

A magnificent line. The only climb J.E. recommended in his keynote talk at Escalade. Start: THE corner in Square Gully.

1. 40m Up to roof, left to ledge.

2. 30m Up to overhang, over bulge then flaky rock and chimney to final roofs and corner to top.

Start: Crack about 10 metres to right of Hercules. Obvious crack/chimney for which I have no description as Keith cannot remember much about it. However, if you cannot find your way up this line you should not be here.

Too dangerous-----not recommended. Start: Middle of rear wall in Square Gully.

1. 16m Aid up to flake.

2. 8m Mixed climbing to large block/flake. N.B. This block moves!

3. 36m Up flake to slab and wall to ledge.

4. 8m Right to belay point.

The first climb on the cliff. Start: On right side of Square Gully.

1. 20m Dirty gully behind tree, then crack.

2. 30m Steep ramp.

3. 60m Chimney to right of steep crack.

4. 15m Dirty crack.

5. 25m (crux) Up easy gully to overhang.

Enjoyable wall and slab climbing up front of buttress. Start: Left end of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 25m (crux) Straight up to ledge, around to large tree.

2. 8m Back down and into crack to large blocks. 3, 17m Up crack, right onto wall, then up as will.

Easiest way up second biggest buttress. Two good pitches. Start: Middle of wall on Odyssey Buttress.

1. 30m (crux) Up wall heading left to tree.

2. 15m Layback up.

3. 18m Left of belay, up blocks.

4. 18m Up corner to ledge.

5. 18m Up overhang to op.

Two reasonably good pitches --- recommended. Start: Corner crack on right side of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 20m (crux) Up crack into corner.

2. 30m Up corner to large ledge. Climb as will OR abseil down gully to left.

Highly recommended. Start: On right side of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 25m (crux) Up steep thin corner.

2. 25m Up twin hand cracks.

3. 25m Up right side of pillar.

4. 25m Up corner.

First pitch is quite good. Start: Left side of third buttress.

1. 25m Up wall and crack.

2. 25m Past loose rock, then wall and slab. 3 and 4. 40m As for Wanderlust OR abseil off.

Short but interesting. Start: Second crack on third buttress.

1. 15m Up groove, then right, up wall to small stance.

2. 20m Up twin crack then as you will.

Some interest. Start: As for Face Value but move right.

1. 30m Follow steep crack to ledge, then as for Face Value.

First climb on third buttress.

1. 30m Up 7m then right to thin crack then right to another crack then right to ledge.

2. 12m Onto pinnacle then wall left of detached pinnacle.

3. 15m Short wall.

4. 25m Tree and wall left of corner, up corner till right move onto wall, up to large block. Slab on left to finish.

Short but pleasant. Start: Crack on right side of third buttress.

1. 25m Up to roof, then right, up flake then to tree on left.

One of the better ways up the third buttress. Start: Corner-crack right of third buttress.

1. 23m Up corner-crack.

2. 15m Left into corner-crack, up to tree.

3. 23m (crux) Obvious corner.

4. 19m Rightish to crack, up to top.

A short but pleasant climb. Start: Left side of fourth buttress.

1. ? Left of two cracks to chimney and tree, then to ledge.

2. ? (crux) Straight up.

A pleasant companion route to Striptease. Start: Corner-crack at very top of Striptease Gully.

1. 30m (crux) Up small overhang and crack. Right to chimney. Up to tree.

2. 24m Scramble up to small corner, up, then left along crack to ledge.

3. 24m Up wall keeping to obvious crack.

Ho-hum. Start: Short crack on left wall of terrace.

Another ho-hum. Start: Curving crack at rear of terrace.

1. 15m Up crack then left easily to tree.

Harder than it looks. Start: Right side of Striptease Gully on Isolated Buttress.

1. 20m Up blocks to below tree, left then up crack to top.

Exactly. Start: Offwidth crack on left side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 30m Straight up.

Better than it looks. Start: Front of Isolated Buttress.

1. 42m Rightish up corner to blocks, up to tree right, then crack to tree to top.

A bouldery start. Start: 6m right of Hotchpotch.

1. 10m Up crack and corner.

Should be freed. Start: Thin crack on right front of buttress.

1. 35m Up crack.

A fair corner and crack. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 21m (crux) Up to tree.

2. 19m Crack behind tree.

The finish is tree-ific. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 30m Up corner, then rightish to tree belay.

Another ho-hum. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 15m Up crack then through tree.

Always in the shade. Start: Right corner in gully east of Isolated Buttress.

1. 20m Up corner and right ledge, then up to top veering left.

Roughly in the centre of the main wall there is a slab with two white, pocketed water streaks which lead up into the scrub – a big vegetated terrace.

1. 45m (4) Easily up the slab with not much pro. Tree belay in the scrub. Walk up to the base of the headwall, then follow the wall down L. On the L side of the main wall there’s a long, L-facing 90 degree corner. Pitch two climbs the slabby wall 5m L of this.
2. 30m (13) Climb the wall avoiding the loose rock for 15m to a ledge at base of short corner crack (L of the one described above). Up this with good gear for 5m, then continue up the line to tree belay at base of big groove (pitch 3).
3. 18m (15) Climb the groove with excellent pro. At the fig tree at half height, there is some very loose rock to negotiate (bridging!). The final moves leading L to the top out are the best on the route. Tree belay on ancient full-size bonsai pine. Walk off L down gully.

10 metres left of Shere Kahn. The crack below the obvious roof problem. Balancy crux to start up the crack, then directly over roof. Natural belay, then an easy scramble out right. A good warm up.

I'm sure in Yosemite this would be grade 16. Starts R of corner at the offwidth crack. Climb the 4m offwidth (#5 camalot) to ledge, then walk off L. The headwall finish passing the very dodgy bolt (placed by an earlier party) is uncompleted. Using the fig tree is not allowed.

2m R. Very wide crack (#5 camalot) to protruding roof. Step R under roof into enclave and DBB.

1m R. Wide shaft with lovely handcrack running up the middle. A good beginner lead. Take Anaconda's R-hand finish.

2m R. Twin cracks/chimney. Quite a nice chimney. Bring big gear to adequately protect this.

Start in the cave 1m R behind Fireflies pillar. Well protected climbing up a tight and fully enclosed chimney. At the top, exit L to DBB.

The most obvious route here. 2m R of pillar and marked by some weird metal spikes sticking out down low. Attractive, sinuous crack up corner to small roof, then ramble out.

Slightly contrived, but great fun up the arete between COTW and Amazon, always staying clear of the two cracks. A couple of thin, cruxy moves to jug. Continue up arete to ledge on a variety of interesting holds. Scramble up to top.

1m R. Another sinuous crack, similar to the last one. If you pike off right, subtract a few grades.

Enter the cave left of Me Jane. Climb up the chimney and under the offensive rock. Top out up You Tarzan.

3m R. A shaft with a big tree growing against the rock. Bridge the shaft and climb the tree, with a harder move at the top. Belay on ledge, but scramble out L (roped).

1m R. The last decent corner crack on the cliff. Scramble down R.

2m left of Cheetah. Easy twin crack/chimney all the way up. Good pro.Nice beginners lead.

Walk 15m right of Tribal Dance over boulders to a large fallen-over pillar. Right in front, climb the sinuous left crack up corner to broken ground. Try and stay off the crack on the right side. Good fist jam. Bring a couple large cams.

Thrutchy crack climbing. A tricky move gets you established in the crack proper. Great protection all the way to the top.

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.