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Whale Wall

15

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Access issues inherited from Eua

Before climbing on ‘Eua, all climbers must register at Ovava Tree Lodge. During registration climbers must agree to the Disclaimer and the Climber’s Code of Conduct. There is a T$20 climbers registration fee and an admin fee of T$5. This is a one off payment per trip.

Please remember that climbing is on the Kings estate and access is a privilege granted by the Kings Office, not a right. We are guests on their land - please act accordingly.

Ethic inherited from Eua

To ensure climbers can enjoy this special place it is critical that climbing is supported by the local community. To help achieve this the Kaka Maka Group has been formed as a partnership between climbers, the Kings Office and the Eua Tourism Association to develop ‘Eua as an international climbing destination. Contact them by email: kakamakaeua@gmail.com

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Routes

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Grade Route

shares first bolt with "Pepe el Loco" then take right hand line toward tan rock

FA: uli CM

20m uphill from main whale wall

FA: May 2018

A short easy pitch to a belay ledge at 12m where the real climbing begins

P1: a groove on the right side leads to the dark featured rock above P2: continue up and right to a small overlap, above this and further right to the second anchor

FA: Tony Burnell & Jean Jack, 5 Aug 2016

1 21
2 20
1 22
2 18

A high first bolt and cruxy climbing getting past the next two. The rest of the line follows holds up the center of the panel between the two highly featured cave features on either side of the central panel of quality rock.

P2 finishes the line to a shared anchor with "Great Expectations" P2

Shared by several routes above. Climb the easiest line up the corner just left of the "Hounds Head" rock feature obvious on the ground at base of the Whale wall.

FA: Tony Burnell & Jean Jack

1 23 30m
2 22 20m

FA: Nathan Duxfield & Greg Jack, 5 Aug 2016

1 18 23m
2 21 20m

Tavake are the white-tailed tropic birds that frequently soar past the cliffs of Fangatave, and the namesake of this climb, in honour of the long white streak this climb ascends, high above the forest. The first pitch is a bit dirty, but well worth enduring for the stunning pitch above.

FA: Tony Burnell & Jean Jack, 15 Jun 2017

1 16 12m
2 19 25m

FA: Tony Burnell & Jean Jack, 16 Jun 2017

1 16 12m
2 18 25m

Have slings to extend draws on p2. When lowering off p2 be careful not to lose the wall, a 70m doubled over will NOT reach the ground with rope stretch. You must re abseil from p1 anchors to reach the ground.

FA: Tony Burnell, 24 Jun 2017

1 16
2 21

2 pitch (16, 21) access via shared "Whale Access Pitch"

long grade 20 climbing above shared "Whale Access Pitch"

1 19 23m
2 19 17m

climbed on an anniversary, typical featured pockety climbing up the height of the wall, starts just left of the low cave left of "Whale Access Pitch"

FA: Jean Jack & Tony Burnell, 11 Jun 2017

Best to start using the tree where it is closest to the wall. Climb up into the groove feature. Easiest line on the wall, hardest right off the ground. possibly best to start with first two bolts of the line to the left.

Continuation of the line left of Beginners line, although makes for a an easier start. Starts behind some Fa trees, staying just to the right of a ledge/alcove system in the corner further to your left. above find a tufa and chimney system. (Route name suggested by Josh Merriam)

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