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Fa Wall

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Description

Mostly a single pitch area at the southern end of the Fangatave Beach crag. Curently the only two pitch climb on the wall is a trad line.

Access issues inherited from Eua

Before climbing on ‘Eua, all climbers must register at Ovava Tree Lodge. During registration climbers must agree to the Disclaimer and the Climber’s Code of Conduct. There is a T$20 climbers registration fee and an admin fee of T$5. This is a one off payment per trip.

Please remember that climbing is on the Kings estate and access is a privilege granted by the Kings Office, not a right. We are guests on their land - please act accordingly.

Approach

Follow the track at the base of the crag all the way south past Mânava Wall to an area dense in Fa Trees.

Ethic inherited from Eua

To ensure climbers can enjoy this special place it is critical that climbing is supported by the local community. To help achieve this the Kaka Maka Group has been formed as a partnership between climbers, the Kings Office and the Eua Tourism Association to develop ‘Eua as an international climbing destination. Contact them by email: kakamakaeua@gmail.com

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Routes

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Grade Route

Located just on the left of the downhill prow of Fa wall. Start below Heavily featured tufa groove, continue up for 8m. Follow sparse pockets up through very steep bouldery terrain to lip.

FFA: Joel wilson, 6 Jun 2019

Starts just right of Blade Runner in the next corner line. Easy start leads to thin crux in left facing corner up to DBB.

FA: Geoff Butcher & maureen little

FFA: 7 Jun 2019

Long varied climbing, quite consistent at the grade. Cleaned and sanitized well, but still sharp in places. above the midway anchor, the route veers left at the top to meet the anchor of "Cosmos"

FFA: Geoff Little, 8 Jun 2019

1 18
2 17

Starts a few meters to the north of Gita. P1 - start up the corner seam placing medium size wires and cams as you go. Over the bulge to double bolt belay. P2 - start up the crack placing med wires and cams. When the crack disappears keep going a few more meters to gain the double bolt belay. Rap back to P1 anchors and re- rap, a 70m doubled over with rope stretch will NOT reach the ground from P2 anchors.

Fangatave is a sport climbing area, however it would be a crime to bolt this line as it can be entirely protected with trad gear. Please respect the wishes of the first ascensionists.

FA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, Jul 2018

Quality, thin, technical climbing. Very worthwhile. On pitch two, go up and right after the 4th bolt. You won't be able to see the next bolt from where you are, but it's there, don't worry. Both pitches grade 23

A thin technical section near the top makes this route unique

FA: Dave Burt & Nick Roach, Jul 2018

Two pitches make for a long, fun route

FA: Vaughn Jones, Aug 2018

One of the easier routes on the wall. Juggy and a bit pumpy

FA: Ulises CM

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FA: glenn tempest

Very low first bolt. Climb the sharp easy stuff, then move right and go up the tufa system

FA: Tony Burnell, 1 Jun 2018

Sharp at the bottom, gets tricky higher up

Quite tricky and sustained with interesting moves past a tufa and over a bulge

FA: Ulises CM

FA: Dave Burt & Nick Roach, Jul 2018

A one bolt variation start leading into B3 of the original upper climbing.

FA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, Jul 2018

FA: Tony Burnell, 1 Jun 2018

An interesting technical start with some big moves followed by a pump-a-thon

FA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, Jul 2018

A tricky start followed by a pump-a-thon with a sting in the tail!

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