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Description

Great Trango Tower is a peak neighbouring Nameless Tower, or, Little Trango Tower, and is regarded as having some of the most demanding, difficult and rewarding big wall climbs in the world.

Approach

From the town of Skardu, you can hike to Great Trango Tower via either Askole or Gondogoro Pass. Gondogoro pass has an elevation of 5600 metres so it is strongly advised that you only use this route if you are acclimatized.

To go via Askole, take a jeep ride to Askole from Skardu, which normally takes 6-8 hours. From Askole, you hike to the camp site at Jhula the first day, normally a 4-8 hour hike. On the second day, hike a more challenging route to the campsite at Paiju. On the third day, you hike to the Urdukas campsite. The final trekking day involves crossing the Dungee Glacier which is riddled with crevasses and rock falls are common. This final day is along very rough tracks

Where to stay

Camping is the only available accommodation in the area, and while there are a few established campsites, wild camping is allowed

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Xaver Bongard & John Middendorf, 1992

FA: 1984

FA: 1995

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