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Description

One of the most popular cliffs in the Margallah Hills offering climbs up to 30 meters ranging in difficulty from 6a to 8a.

Approach

Park at Damane Koh and follow the Cactus Ridge walking trail and fire break up the spur to the cliff. Walk time from Damane Koh is approximately 15 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Margallah Hills

Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here!

History

History timeline chart

Developed by John Arron and friends in 2010.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first climb at the left hand end of the cliff. Follows the bolted line left of the stalactites. DBB and lower off.

FA: John Arran, 2011

Interesting and varied climbing. Follows the line of bolts to the right of the stalactites. Crux is the last move to the chains. DBB and lower off.

FA: John Arran, 2011

FA: 2017

Climbs the short overhanging wall left of the pocketed cave. Technical moves to an awkward mantle at 2/3 height then monkey up the hanging vines to DBB and lower off. Originally a fairly scary proposition, an additional bolt was added in 2016 making it far more pleasant.

FA: John Arran, 2011

Steep climbing out of the pocketed cave and up the overhanging wall to the chains on WT. Pumpy but with a couple of great rests. Shares the DBB and lower off with WT.

FA: John Arran, 2011

Start as for MIMW and from the good rest at the third bolt continue up PM.

The best climb of its grade and a right of passage for all aspirant Margallah climbers. Starts to the right of the pocketed cave and follows the steep rib to the highest point of the crag. Sustained fingery climbing all the way to the top. DBB and lower off. 60m rope required (remember to put a knot in the end).

FA: John Arran, 2010

FA: John Arran, 2010

FA: John Arran, 2010

FA: Junya Matsura, 2016

FA: Jens-Jacob Simonsen, 2012

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