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Summary

5434m

Description

A rarely climbed peak that is part of the Huantsan massif, offering alpine rock and mixed routes.

Approach

Take a taxi to the village of Janku, about an hours drive. Head up the valley through the pampa, passing a small dam and some low rock walls. You will be able to see two main knolls, but you should aim for the southern knoll which is slightly shorter and has less rock/vegetation. The trail is vague, find the path of least resistance to the summit where you will find a large cairn. From here, the trail becomes obvious and winds its way through the granite slabs to pass a large alpine lake and finally arrives at base camp, situated above a small swamp. To reach the mountain, stick to the left and an path marked by cairns will lead you to the glacier. If in doubt, stick left.

Routes

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Grade Route

A good topo for this route can be found in the Casa de Guias or at Zarela's.

P1 (5.6) - Climb an easy, obvious crack to the end of the rope.

P2 - (5.7) - Continue climbing obvious cracks, traversing left to belay off large block.

P3 - (5.7) - Traverse slightly right then climb onto face with cracks to the notch.

P4 - (5.6) - Perfect finger crack which is easier than appears, then follow the ridge to the right.

P5 - (5.7) - Follow the ridge.

P6 (5.8 R) - A couple of spicey traverse moves lead up higher to an alcove on the ridge.

Descent: Bolted anchors on the Sims-Hanning Route can be seen from the end of the route. 6 rappels.

Easy snow slopes which lead to the summit after completing one of the previous rock routes.

Massive glacial retreat has changed this route significantly and decreased the overall difficulty. As of 2018, the route involves an easy ascent of the glacier to the base of a couloir with 60-70 degree snow/ice. The second pitch is an easy snow slope to the summit, but opting for one of a few possible lines directly up the rock band will add some spice.

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