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Summary

5875m

Description

A rarely climbed peak in a spectacular setting.

Access issues

Probably one of the easiest accessed peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, right near the tourist hotspot of Punta Olympica

Approach

The trailhead begins at the southern end of the Laguna Belaunde, passing a small stone hut before climbing the moraine ridge. At the top of the ridge, cut right to access the slabs. Cross the slabs and eventually turn left when they give way to gullys, occasionally with small streams flowing through them. Work your way up the path of least resistance, finding a flat(ish) place to camp at the edge of the glacier (or, alternatively, just on it).

Routes

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Grade Route

A sustained snow and ice climb, made difficult by complex navigation on the lower glacier and moderate objective hazards presented by multiple serac bands. Start early, the face gets plenty of sun.

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