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Description

Overhung routes on tufas, hidden jugs and solid white limestone

Access issues inherited from Wawa - Montalban

Aling Normas is a food stall where every visiting climber eats. Register here, ask for the logbook and write down your name and destination and messages for friends who will be late to arrive. Settle the PhP 300 fee per group of 10 or less. Additional PhP 20 per head applies for the succeeding number of climbers. This goes to the local government for maintenance and security of the area. P20 for parking if you have a private vehicle but remeber the attendants name that you paid so you dont pay twice. Once you cross the bridge make a donation to the locals on the trail head in the village, PhP 15-20. (This donation comes and goes and isn't official)

Approach

Cross the river on the swing bridge near the car park and follow the trail up the hill past the nipa houses. At the T intersection folllow the L hand fork steeply up the hill (sign posted the Bat Cave). The wall will become obvious where there there an open seating area and the charcoal burning which gives the wall its name has occurred.

Ethic inherited from Wawa - Montalban

Trad, sport climbing and bouldering.

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Simon Sandoval, Dennis Diaz, Mackie and a variety of partners.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Located on the gray slab on the very far L of the entire Upper Uling Wall. Good for starting a slow day at Uling.

Left of Early Bird. A bit more of a challenge, specially without breakfast.

Overhanging crack L of 3 Stitches.

The original test piece in the area. A bouldery power fest named after its crux. Be careful with the somewhat high first clip and the move after the last clip - ground fall potential. Avoid the lower boulder on the left to get the full benefit of the experience.

Set: Simon Sandoval

FA: Simon Sandoval

Follows the large claustrophobic crack on the R of 3 Stitches. Good intro into off-width climbing. Definitely something delightfully different if you like squeezing yourself into tight spaces. An adventure climb on its own. Careful only two bolts at top.

FA: Lex Evangalista

Steep gymnastic fun with a bit of a tricky start.

Starts to the R of the tree near F, follow the crack up to a rest stalactite. traverse L to 1st bolt, follow icecream like rock up to the L to get on top of it. pull through up L to finish near the tree.

Meandering route starts at the small tree and goes up R next to the foot like stalactite.

FA: Lex Evangalista

Just R of SJ up hanging corner finish at same anchor as SJ

R hand curving route to finish at anchors for Powder. Plan your clips well or end up with terrible rope drag.

Set: Simon Sandoval

FA: Dennis Diaz & Simon Sandoval, 1999

Steep good long fun weaving through a series of tufas and stalactites.

FA: Gax, Mackie & Sandoval, 1999

Up the juggy Tufas and stalactites 2m L of Warlock. 3 bolts, 2 threads.

Follow bolts up to anchors just L of Cafe De Wawa.

Crag classic with a bit of everything thrown in, jams, pockets, Tufas and jugs. Can be extended to anchor of SMB. Similar difficulty.

FA: Ilanan, Mackie & Sandoval, 1999

Follow cracks and tufa up face to anchors just L of Mars Attacks, 4 bolt, 1 thread. 6b+ variation is a 3 bolt addition starting low on the tufas left of Ina Flores. Climb up and L using the tufas on the face and connect a bit higher up Rainy Season. For an even longer variation, instead of connecting to Rainy Season, stitch together with Cafe De Wawa and finish on SMB's anchors.

Set: Jordi Esquis & Dennis Diaz

FA: Dennis Diaz

A quality easier end route on this wall. Some cool holds on really nice white rock. 4 bolts, 1 thread. Feels more like 5.10a/6a.

Follow crack on R of Mars Attacks and then bolts up R on face. A very interesting line with moves quite different from the usual Uling style right on the second half of the climb. 5 bolts, one sling.

Set: Xtian Guerrero & Gax Ilanan, 2016

FA: Gax Ilanan, 2016

Fun jugging to a hand jam finish, love the hidden gym style thread jug.

FA: Ybanez

Follow the bolts up the crack immediately R of BA and around the big high stalactite that you can cowboy onto before the cruxy L to the anchors. 6bish until then. Unfortunately, crux holds tend to be wet an mossy... Bring along sling to protect the middle, wouldn't trust the old one there.

Start about 4m right of SC, stay left of the big tufa, then traverse slightly right past the anchor of Bayawak and continue all the way up on the left side of the overhang. Nice exposure on the last moves onto the face to reach the anchor.

FA: Nana Araneta, Simon Sandoval, Gax Ilanan & Dennis Diaz, 1998

Same start as Sunday School, but stay on the right of the tufa. Crux just before the anchor. Can also be continued to the top of SS, same difficulty.

The alternative start to Bayawak, starting under the cornflaky tufa? Grade to be confirmed.

FA: Nana Araneta, Buddy Advincula, Simon Sandoval & Digoy Araneta, 2000

Recently rebolted line on the right of the cornflakey tufa. Pretty mossy at the moment, but with some interesting moves. Grade to be confirmed.

FA: Sandoval & Advincula, 2000

Start as for DBPP just L of the black crack. Follow DBPP for the first 3 bolts but continue directly up the wide white crack and Tufas on L above.

FA: Miel Pahati, 2016

Dirty Black Pumping?? Technical startBoulder just up L of the crack down R of Bulaklak, move R at the break and make a big move off the undercling, around the R side of the stalactite and up to the anchors.

FFA: Dennis Diaz

Set: Matt Brooks

FA: Joseph Valeria, 10 Jan 2016

The steep wall R of DBPP to join NIR. The start is a V8 Boulder into some more pumpy climbing. Currently cannot be climbed due to bamboo kiosk below.

FA: Miel Pahati, Mar 2016

An old route, rebolted that was left unfinished by Dennis, Gax and Simon. Still a project. The bolts heading diagonally L across the tufas to the lovely whit rock at crack up the head wall. Currently cannot be climbed due to bamboo kiosk below.

FA: Dennis Diaz & Miel Pahati

Set: Matt Brooks & Dennis Diaz

This the 2nd pitch to the Uling Project and starts of the obvious ledge above the R end of Uling Wall.The clean white arete can be reached via an easy scramble on the R to a tree from which a sparsely protected traverse L brings yo to the belay, bolts above this to the lower off.

FA: N.Araneta & S.Sandoval, 1999

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