Routes as trad in Zamarła Turnia

topo

Nice easier route with pitons and good gear placement. The route follows obvious corner in the left part of the south face.

The route follows crack/corner system on right side of the big corner until it reaches obvious horizontal crack. It traverses the crack in one pitch (40m) and continues up following corners and chimneys. Very exposed and nice climb. Occasional pitons in the route.

Pitches: 4, 3, 4, 5, 4

The initial pitch is a bit shattered, but the route becomes quickly and outstanding climb following an obvious crack in the main slab and later graduating in very exposed tiny crack systems. Pitons in the route. Belays chain-bolted, the route can be rappelled.

Pitches: 3, 6-, 5-, 5+, 6+

Topo at drytooling.com.pl

Pitches: 4, 5+, 7-, 7-, 4, 3

It is a 2-pitch variant to Motyka route that continues straight up the main corner.

topo & info

Pitches: 4, 5, 5, 4, 5, 4

Magnificent climb in perfect rock. Starting with a crack in an obvious corner, then through structured slabs to another corner. Belays bolted, some pitons in the pitches.