Ascents: Ascents in Piatra Craiului

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Difficulty	Climber
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor MCM
Sport	7-	★★★ Le Slaubeause — 5 attempts - with gabriel bazacliu	Sport 10m	★★★ Classic	Hard 7-	Ruxandra V
Route is really cool and v psychological. Graded as a 6 in the park topo, really closer to 7-/7 (not only my opinion). Could get to the third bolt, couldn't make it past the crux there. Need to problem solve more
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
Top rope	6	★★ Diagonal - with gabriel bazacliu	Sport 25m			Ruxandra V
Tired and a bit off my game after Slabeause. Didn't have guts to lead it, was iffy about following it too but at least I got to the top
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor Prăpăstii
Sport	5	Memorial Gica Trufasila - with gabriel bazacliu	Sport			Ruxandra V
Tried to play on mobiles with it, didn't really have as many good placements as I thought I would. Ended up doing it as a sport route with 1 shit nut and 1 halfdecent friend
Second	3A	Traseul Începătorilor P1 - with gabriel bazacliu 1 Second lead by gabriel bazacliu	Trad			Ruxandra V
Friable and poorly protected, albeit v easy. Decided it wasn't worth it
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne
Alpine	M2	Brâul de Sus - with Andrei Badea	Alpine			Ruxandra V
Hornul N portion, retreated at Saua cu Iarba due to snow conditions
Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Ciorânga Văi şi brâne
Alpine	1A	Vâlcelul cu Smirdar - with Andrei Badea, Radu Hera, etc	Alpine	Average		Ruxandra V
This is when the snow started getting shitty. The bushes are still partially uncovered so we weren't worried of anything big taking off, but we did crack a bunch of windslabs (still too small to slide much). Above Acul de la Amvon, the situation was clearly going to get dangerous on the usual linkup (top of Canionul Cioranga) so we did some careful crossing to Muchia Timbalului Mare (on bushes and a secondary ridge), which was possibly the best part of the climb - a snowy M2 ridge, reasonably exposed at times, we shortroped
Alpine	M3	★★★ Vâlcelul cu Fereastră - with Andrei Badea, Radu Hera, etc	Alpine	★★★ Classic		Ruxandra V
Short and sweet. 30cm of powder snow over bare rock. Mostly on a single Quark, used 2 on the penultimate obstacle for the slightly overhanging topout.
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Poiana Închisă Văi și brâne
Alpine	1B	Brâul de Sus - with Andrei Badea	Alpine		1B	Ruxandra V
Partial, from Umerii Pietrei Craiului to La Lanturi
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne
Alpine	1A	★★★ Brâul de Mijloc - with Andrei Badea	Alpine	★★★ Classic	Hard 1A	Ruxandra V
On descent - one of my first real encounters with Piatra Craiului scree. Honestly got pretty scared a few times. 1 short rappel to avoid a 3 UIAA downclimb (had an iffy knee at this point, and wasn't super confident anymore)
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Vlăduşca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi şi brâne
Alpine	1A	Traseul Anghelide - with Andrei Badea	Alpine			Ruxandra V
On descent from Braul de Mijloc
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Poiana Închisă Umărul de Jos
Alpine	3+	★★ Umerii Pietrei Craiului - with Andrei Badea	Alpine	★★ Very Good		Ruxandra V
Rope never left the backpack, did the route in less than 2h with plenty of time for sunbathing. We avoided the initial '&&(%^$%^$%' chimney on the right, and the rest of it was either not exposed or very very easy
Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
Second	5	★★ Creasta Frumoasă - with Andrei Badea 1 4 40 Second lead by Andrei Badea We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag! 2 5 40 Second lead by Andrei Badea Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro 3 2 45 Second lead by Andrei Badea From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock. 4 4- 55 Second lead by Andrei Badea Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves)	Trad 180m	★★★ Classic		Ruxandra V
Crux of the route was a boulder problem on the approach, which we found dripping wet, with moving boulders on the top-out (would have been great holds otherwise, this way I had to chimney it). Also, our initial anchor was a pretty crap boulder. Above that on the actual ridge, the rock was dry and lovely. Gear used: small friends, 6 alpine draws, 4 120cm slings
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Crângul Ciorii Magma
Sport	7 7/7+	★★ Magma	Sport 22m	★★ Very Good		Pal Andras
Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
Sport	6	★★ Diagonal - with Ivan	Sport 25m	★★ Very Good		Steve D
Sport	7-	★★ Afumătura - with Ivan	Sport 20m	★★ Very Good		Steve D
This seemed easier than Doi Jidani. But the topo at the crag shows an extension. Maybe that's the harder bit.
Sport	6 6/6+	★★ Doi Jidani - with Ivan	Sport 25m	★★ Very Good		Steve D
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Faleza Sticla
Sport	6-	★★ Epi - with Ivan	Sport 20m	★★ Very Good		Steve D
Sport	5+	★★ Titi - with Ivan	Sport 18m	★★ Very Good		Steve D
Sport	6	★★★ Sebi - with Ivan	Sport 20m	★★★ Classic		Steve D
At last a 6 Romano that I can send first time! haha. This is the best climb out of the three here with a committing bulge to power through.
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Faleza La Pensiune
Sport	6-	★ Alex - with Ivan	Sport 18m	★ Good		Steve D
Hard for the grade.
Sport	6	★ Ştefan - with Ivan	Sport 17m	★ Good		Steve D
Very hard for the grade, even with the drilled out crimp at the crux!
Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
Sport	7-	★★ Afumătura - with Philipp Siegmund	Sport 20m	★★ Very Good		..L!$A..
Thu 26th May 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
Sport	7-	★★ 7 Cuie şi-un Furou - with Philipp Siegmund	Sport 25m	★★ Very Good		..L!$A..
Wed 25th May 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
Sport	7-	★★ 7 Cuie şi-un Furou - with ..L!$A..	Sport 25m			Philipp Siegmund
Sport	7-	★★ Afumătura - with ..L!$A..	Sport 20m			Philipp Siegmund
Sun 8th May 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne
Alpine	1B	Valea Podurilor - firul principal - with Marian Anghel	Alpine			Ruxandra V
Until Saua Caprelor, where we crossed over. Decentish snow, everything covered.
Alpine	1A	Vâlcelul Caprelor - with Marian Anghel	Alpine			Ruxandra V
On descent, between Saua Caprelor and Braul de Mijloc
Alpine	1B	Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal - with Marian Anghel	Alpine			Ruxandra V
In spring conditions, a very easy F. Good snow and preexisting footprints. Apparently way more fun once you need to actually climb rock
Wed 11th Mar 2020 - Piatra Craiului
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu
	7-	★★ Afumătura	Sport 20m			Alexandru Pop
Wed 11th Mar 2020 - Piatra Craiului
Măgura Faleza Mică
	5+	Neptun	Sport 11m			Alexandru Pop
	7	Vega	Sport 9m			Alexandru Pop
	5+	Uranus	Sport 10m			Alexandru Pop
Mon 29th Aug 2016 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Amfiteatrul dracilor
	5+	Nichipercea - with Peterarwin	Sport 18m			Red girl
	7+	Belzebut - with Peterarwin	Sport 25m			Red girl
Mon 29th Aug 2016 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Faleza Sticla
	5+	★★ Titi - with Red girl	Sport 18m			Peterarwin
	6	★★★ Sebi - with Red girl	Sport 20m			Peterarwin
	6-	★★ Epi - with Red girl	Sport 20m			Peterarwin
Mon 29th Aug 2016 - Piatra Craiului
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Amfiteatrul dracilor
	7+	Belzebut - with Red girl	Sport 25m			Peterarwin
	5+	Nichipercea - with Red girl	Sport 18m			Peterarwin

Sport

7-

★★★ Le Slaubeause

— 5 attempts - with gabriel bazacliu

Sport 10m

★★★ Classic

Hard 7-

Ruxandra V

Top rope

6

★★ Diagonal

- with gabriel bazacliu

Sport 25m

Ruxandra V

Sport

5

Memorial Gica Trufasila

- with gabriel bazacliu

Sport

Ruxandra V

Second

3A

Traseul Începătorilor P1

- with gabriel bazacliu

1 Second lead by gabriel bazacliu

Trad

Ruxandra V

Alpine

M2

Brâul de Sus

- with Andrei Badea

Alpine

Ruxandra V

Alpine

1A

Vâlcelul cu Smirdar

- with Andrei Badea, Radu Hera, etc

Alpine

Average

Ruxandra V

Alpine

M3

★★★ Vâlcelul cu Fereastră

- with Andrei Badea, Radu Hera, etc

Alpine

★★★ Classic

Ruxandra V

Alpine

1B

Brâul de Sus

- with Andrei Badea

Alpine

1B

Ruxandra V

Alpine

1A

★★★ Brâul de Mijloc

- with Andrei Badea

Alpine

★★★ Classic

Hard 1A

Ruxandra V

Alpine

1A

Traseul Anghelide

- with Andrei Badea

Alpine

Ruxandra V

Alpine

3+

★★ Umerii Pietrei Craiului

- with Andrei Badea

Alpine

★★ Very Good

Ruxandra V

Second

5

★★ Creasta Frumoasă

- with Andrei Badea

1 4 40 Second lead by Andrei Badea

We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag!

2 5 40 Second lead by Andrei Badea

Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro

3 2 45 Second lead by Andrei Badea

From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock.

4 4- 55 Second lead by Andrei Badea

Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves)

Trad 180m

★★★ Classic

Ruxandra V