Nodes in Valea Ciorânga

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Valea Ciorânga
Brâul Ciorânga Mare
Brâul Ciorânga Mare
5B Fisura Galbenă
4B Muchia Lungă
4A Lespedea din Circul de Piatră
3B Vâlcelul Spălat
2A Hornul Închis
7 R2 Vis Împlinit
Peretele Ciorânga Mare
Peretele Ciorânga Mare
7- R4 Catrene și Dileme
6- A0 Canionul Ciorânga Mare
6+/7- A1 Feţele din Stânga Lirei
6+ Muchia Bondarului

4B Romanian, 6+ UIAA (5+/6- A0), S5/RS3 protection

A very airy and spectacular 2-pitch ridge, with a long scrambling approach. Bolted belays, two bolts in the crux and one on a friable portion of an approach pitch, a few old pitons and reasonable gear placement (recommended: 0.3 to 3 BD or equivalent cams, a couple of long slings, maybe some small nuts)

Approach - Entrance to Canionul Cioranga

P1: Start from Floricioiu's memorial plaque on 15m of runout easy grassy slab, keep left under a small rock wall (2 pitons and some gear placements available) then when the wall becomes a small peak head right on some slabs, past a cordelette-slung tree (the old belay) and on to a bolted belay. 4 UIAA, 45m

P2: Continue to the right up a wide gully, ignore the bolted belay on a platform to your left (it's from Les Pas R'venus) and continue on the gully to the belay. 2 UIAA, 40m

P3: At the piton above, cross 1 gully to the left (there's a bolt with yellow cordelette to guide you/protect the friable crux but it's not visible from the belay if you're short) and continue upwards on it until reaching a platform at the right of the ridge. 3 UIAA, 45m

P4: The first ridge pitch and the most airy. Gain the ridge on a runout 4 UIAA section (some placements for small gear available but not ideal) until pitons start appearing (the 5 crux is well protected). Belay in the saddle, on the left. 5 UIAA, 40m

P5: Gain the ridge using some vertical slabs (medium cams), then continue on it until reaching the crux crack of the route (bolted, and pitoned densely enough to French-free it). Exit right (free climb crux of the route). The next piton will be the last one of the pitch. Follow a crack back to the ridge (medium to large friends, protect the exit for the second) then walk on the ridge for 10 unprotectable meters to a rock horn and then the belay. 6+ UIAA (6 A0), 45m

P6: Follow a succession of easy slabs and chimnneys, avoiding a dwarf pine patch on the left, until reaching a second dwarf pine patch. The belay is on a single bolt, to the right of it. 3 UIAA, 45m

Retreat: Follow a rather unclear path to the dwarf pines until reaching Braul de Sus, which should be taken right towards Acul de la Amvon. Rappel/downclimb Valcelul cu Fereastra (30m raps)

6 - 7 A0 Lespezile Lirei
7 R2 Traseul Nuşu Ion
7 - 8 A0 Les Pas' Rvenus
5B Surplomba Hornului
6 - 7 A0 Traseul Central al Lirei
7- R2 Frumoasele și Bestia
6 R2 Loz în frig
5B Apus de Soare
2A Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare
2B Muchia cu Fereastră
Turnul Nordic
Turnul Nordic
7- R3 Toteme și blesteme
7- R4 Catrene şi Dileme
Brâul Frumos
Brâul Frumos
3B Muchia Spălăturii
4A Fisura Mariei
3B Traseul Prima Creastă
3B Traseul Spălătura
3A Muchia Orbului
Văi şi brâne
Văi şi brâne
1B Brâul Ciorânga - Ramura de Jos
1A Padina lui Râie
1B Vâlcelul cu Fereastră
1A Vâlcelul cu Smirdar
1A Vâlcelul Câinelui Mort
1B Valea Ciorânga
1A Brâul de Sus
1B Firul secundar al Hornului Închis

Showing all 41 nodes.

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