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Jgheaburi și brâne 🚫 All Alpine climbing 29 routes in area

Climbing in this area is banned/illegal.

29
YDS
5.0

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues

The current park rules allow access of "appropriately-equipped mountaineers on mountaineering routes", which these technically are, but they might be meaning the trad climbing routes (this is an often made confusion in Romanian). Fine is 3000 lei in case your interpretation of 'mountaineering route' is different from theirs.

Ethic

This is a reservation so make extra sure to leave no trace. The Politele cu Zade areas and the top of Ocolasu Mare are super extra reservationy and off limits without written authorization from the park. If you do end up on Ocolasu Mare in summer though (some of the gullies lead there and there isn't a decent rap point) try to do so in a small group and make sure to keep to the goat paths. This is a very easy-to-damage-by-too-much-foot-traffic alpine swamp environment, and if it gets hurt the springs draining from it dry out, and since the cabin and the monastery below the peak get their water from there you'll inconvenience a lot of people.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
Jgheabul lui Nicandru Alpine
2
Hornul Ursilor Alpine
3
Jgheabul Panaghiei Alpine
4
Jgheabul lui Trifan Alpine
5
Jgheabul Uriesilor Alpine
6
Jgheabul Scaius Alpine
7
Rapa Arinis Alpine
8
Jgheabul lui Voda Alpine
9
Jgheabul Colbece Alpine
10
Jgheabul Florilor Alpine
11
Jgheabul Pavilionului Alpine
12
1A ★★ Brâna Ocolașului Mare Alpine

Very easy 1A, starts from Poiana Ocolașului Mic (head for the doric column) and exits in the La Pălărie area.

13
1A ★ Jgheabul Oilor Alpine

Easiest access route to Ocolasul Mare from Brana Ocolasului (close to the middle of it)

14
Jgheabul Lupilor Alpine

Starts from Brana Ocolasului (first one as you head on it from Ocolasul Mic) and reaches the Ocolasul Mare peak

15
Jgheabul Clailor Alpine
16
Jgheabul cu boambe Alpine
17
1A ★★ Jgheabul Armenilor Alpine
18
Braul de sus Alpine
19
Braul de mijloc Alpine
20
1B Jgheabul Urșilor Alpine

15m rap off the Zaruri rocks to descend, or go around them on the right (as you go down) on a not-very-visible path

21
Jgheabul Negru Alpine
22
1A Jgheabul Cupei Alpine
23
Jgheabul Arcadei Alpine
24
Jgheabul Cascadelor Alpine
25
Jgheabul cu Paltini Alpine
26
1B Jgheabul Cabanei Alpine
27
Jgheabul cu hotar Alpine
28
1A Jgheabul lui Stelea Alpine

Mixed scale doesn't have M0 but that should be its grade. Used as access route to the meteo station from the Stanca Dochiei trail. Only recorded here for completeness' sake.

29
Jgheabul Mare Alpine

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a bunch of mountain goats on ★★ Brâna Ocolașului Mare 1A - _MG_4522_05.jpg

Thu 20 Apr
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