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Rock Star

Access: Climbing Access in Dairy Farm

Latest update about discussions with NParks can be found here - https://www.change.org/p/national-parks-board-singapore-protect-rock-climbing-at-dairy-farm/u/30873370

If you are considering going climbing here, please understand, appreciate and accept the following -

  1. Dairy Farm (DFQ) is a defunct granite quarry that was blast-mined when it was active. As such, the internal integrity of the walls is unknown and rock fall has been observed by climbers through the years.

  2. DFQ is NOT a playground or a gym, where risks are minimised for you. Please ensure that you possess adequate outdoor climbing skills and are able to protect yourself.

  3. There is a chance that you might be fined by NParks for going "off-trail" under park regulations.

  4. Please practice good stewardship of the area and educate yourself on "Leave No Trace principles.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited 4 weeks ago

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Description

Routes are from left to right

Approach

Extracted from Dairy Farm Natural Rock Climbing Facebook Group on 18/03/19

A tree fell from the top of Rock Star area, above the routes "Short and Sweet" and "Hangover", and plastered these 2 routes with sand. Some rocks far above were also brought down by the tree. The area at the bottom has been cleaned up. But risk of rockfall still exists. Don't linger at the bottom if you're not climbing. If you are climbing, stay alert to the potential hazard above.

Be aware that in the gully above 'Short and Sweet' and 'Slash isn't real' there is a lot of loose rock held together with not much but sand and mud. Real chance of pulling down big chunks of rock here, so be very careful.

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Rock: be careful on final easy section.

Steer clear of the arete to the right of the bolt line to avoid pulling head-sized rocks down on your belayer.

Runs up short and sweet then traverses left to join baby star. BD C3 zero is required to protect the crux. Dangerous choss in the gully and single micro cam protects the crux, not for the faint of heart.

FFA: Hamish

FA: Hamish

Some loose rocks on the route. Climb carefully and do not pull out rocks.

Warning Rock: Risk of very large rock falling

Ascend the face then transition right, under the overhang. Traverse rightwards. Be very careful when moving onto the large rock under the overhang - it may be unstable. It is easily identifiable with the steel bar which adds some security. Keep people on the ground away from this rock as you climb. Move over the overhang into a forgiving finish.

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