Rock Star, Sport climbing

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Access: Suspension of climbing activities in Dairy Farm

There is an ongoing dialogue between representatives of the SG climbing community, NParks (land-owner) and SMF (NSA) to explore if we can come up with a safety management plan that would secure sustainable and continual access to Dairy Farm.

As this is onging, NParks also requested that climbers respect their request to refrain from climbing at Dairy Farm.

While this may not be not a favourable short-term outcome, we believe that being responsible users and stewards of our climbing areas also means respecting the wishes of the landowner.

Please help us by not jeopardizing this effort and cease all climbing activities at the crag till further notice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 14 days ago

5c 6a+6b+6c+7a+

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Routes are from left to right

Approach

Extracted from Dairy Farm Natural Rock Climbing Facebook Group on 18/03/19

A tree fell from the top of Rock Star area, above the routes "Short and Sweet" and "Hangover", and plastered these 2 routes with sand. Some rocks far above were also brought down by the tree. The area at the bottom has been cleaned up. But risk of rockfall still exists. Don't linger at the bottom if you're not climbing. If you are climbing, stay alert to the potential hazard above.

Be aware that in the gully above 'Short and Sweet' and 'Slash isn't real' there is a lot of loose rock held together with not much but sand and mud. Real chance of pulling down big chunks of rock here, so be very careful.

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Routes

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Warning Rock: be careful on final easy section.

Steer clear of the arete to the right of the bolt line to avoid pulling head-sized rocks down on your belayer.

Runs up short and sweet then traverses left to join baby star. BD C3 zero is required to protect the crux. Dangerous choss in the gully and single micro cam protects the crux, not for the faint of heart.

FFA: Hamish

FA: Hamish

Some loose rocks on the route. Climb carefully and do not pull out rocks.

Warning Rock: Risk of very large rock falling

Ascend the face then transition right, under the overhang. Traverse rightwards. Be very careful when moving onto the large rock under the overhang - it may be unstable. It is easily identifiable with the steel bar which adds some security. Keep people on the ground away from this rock as you climb. Move over the overhang into a forgiving finish.