★★ Swab Test 6c

Grade context: FR
Length: 25m
Bolts: 11
Ascents: 6

Access: Climbing Access in Dairy Farm

Latest update about discussions with NParks can be found here - https://www.change.org/p/national-parks-board-singapore-protect-rock-climbing-at-dairy-farm/u/30873370

If you are considering going climbing here, please understand, appreciate and accept the following -

Dairy Farm (DFQ) is a defunct granite quarry that was blast-mined when it was active. As such, the internal integrity of the walls is unknown and rock fall has been observed by climbers through the years.
DFQ is NOT a playground or a gym, where risks are minimised for you. Please ensure that you possess adequate outdoor climbing skills and are able to protect yourself.
There is a chance that you might be fined by NParks for going "off-trail" under park regulations.
Please practice good stewardship of the area and educate yourself on "Leave No Trace principles.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago - Edited about two years ago

description

Starts from the ledge where the belay area for Alarette is, immediately to the right of Alarette's belay anchors, staying in the relatively sheltered corner for the first several meters before coming out onto the face and then punching straight up what would be the left nostril of the Nose.

The 5th bolt may currently be slightly difficult for shorter climbers to clip. Placement was forced by the quality of the surrounding rock. It is intended to protect the move over the bulge, and it is highly recommended that climbers clip the 5th before making the traverse out left to get over that bulge.

There are also a few blocks at the last 2 bolts which looked like they might come loose, but haven’t given way to tugging with body weight. Nevertheless, do be careful if you are giving the route a go.

Hardware comprises Hilti HSA-R wedge bolts with Petzl hangers, all SS316. Anchors are currently two bolts, each with a quicklink/maillon. The quicklinks/maillons will soon be replaced with rated SS316 quicklinks.

With all the craziness going on in 2020, and given the part of the Nose where the route is, Swab Test seemed the perfect name to memorialise the year.