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Západná Lomnica

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 2
  • Aka: West face
2
UIAA
5+6

Seasonality

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D

Description

Long routes in sound rock with face, overhang and crack climbing and a real alpine environment. W face is a dark-to-dark adventure unless you are lucky and get a place at Skalnaté pleso. It is also very popular destination.

Detailed information is available in local web guide (in Slovak):

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/stena.php?kod=04580943:Lomnick%FD-%9At%EDt:2633

Approach

For W face, walk up to Lomnické sedlo and continue another 200m up on the south ridge. Then turn left (cairned trail) and rap off 60m. Belay prepared, it is kind of via ferrata so down climb also possible though not recommended. Then follow trail downwards and upwards to reach the face. An alternative approach comes from Malá Studená dolina via Téry kuloár. It is a long strenuous hike in broken and ugly ground.

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Routes

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Grade Route

This is the most classic route here and often climbed.

  1. Start with an obvious unique hand crack in a corner

  2. Continue the corner

  3. Head towards an obvious cross made from two cracks, easier to left, harder straight up

  4. Travers right on exposed ledge (Filmárská lívka) to a nice structured ledge

  5. Climb across the slab diagonally to left below typical overhangs (Hokejka - hokey stick)

  6. Go straight on the overhang

  7. Continue up a crack, crux comes at its end and is protected with a bolt

  8. Go up a water-polished chimney into Lievik (funnel). This part is threaten by flash flood in thunderstoms and accidents have been reported here.

9.-10. Climb up to the summit in easier ground.

Belays are bolted.

FA: F.Plšek & V.Zachoval, 1950

Route starts at lower part of Téry kuloár just at the top of large compact rock bad.

  1. Climb diagonally to right (3)

  2. Continue until a steep face (4)

  3. Climb the face into a small gully (5+)

  4. Climb a corner that becomes a flank (5, feels harder)

  5. Face around a small pillar (5)

  6. Still around and on top of the pillar (4, broken rock)

  7. Climb long offwidth crack in a compact slab (5, excellent)

  8. Continue the offwidth crack (5, excellent)

  9. Finish the offwidth crack and slabs (5)

Some pitons in the route.

FA: Z.Čepela & O.Pochylý, 1969

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