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Lost Tribe Area

  • Grade context: SA

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Created 5 months ago
8
SA

Description

Two thirds of the way down the ramp, the vegetated rock opens up into a beautiful orange amphitheatre with some fine shorter routes

Approach

From the path, scramble up diagonally right (looking at the cliff) to a large ledge below a break in the centre of the amphitheatre. There are some clay pot shards a few metres to the right. Some routes here only go up one or two pitches, and descent is either via topping out on a different route, or rapping off the bolts on EXODUS.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Hector Pringle ()

Routes

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Grade Route
1 19 35m
2 19 25m
3 20 20m
4 19 20m
5 21 35m
6 19 20m

Start 20m left of LOST TRIBE at the base of a blunt arête. A steep corner can be seen about 10m up. Cairn.

  1. 35m 19 Climb up diagonally left for a few metres over juggy rock (loose looking, but mega solid). Climb up to corner, climb it for about 6m, then move out left onto the arête, then straight up to a small stance.

  2. 25m 19 Straight up for a few meters then traverse right and up (airy), and along a ledge until about 4m left of the 3rd pitch of LOST TRIBE (i.e. the big corner to the right). Climb up and left, then straight up to a stance on top of some blocks below a steep crack.

  3. 20m 20 Climb the steep rock and crack above to a roof. Move 2m left and pull up through onto a ledge above. Walk 5m left.

  4. 20m 19 Climb the crack/recess to a roof. Pull through the roof and move right and up to a stance on a small ledge below a flake.

  5. 35m 21 Climb the corner/flake to the roof and make long moves right to gain a jug. Pull up then move 2m left to a shallow corner. Up the corner and the one above to until one can climb easily up to the left to a large scoop below a roof. Traverse about 5m left to stance on a narrow ledge.

  6. 20m 19 Climb the crack above the stance to another ledge (8m). Move left then climb the steep face/crack above to a ledge. Scramble up from the stance to a bushy ledge. Bash to the chimney gully about 10m right and climb the tree and arête above to take you to ledges and gullies that are part of the LOST TRIBE scramble. Bash/climb to the summit. A casual stroll (via the maze) brings you back to the campsite.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Ian Slatem, 1988

Start in the obvious recess left of LOST TRIBE.

  1. 21 Climb the recess to a stance common with LOST TRIBE.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

Start from the stance at the end of THE JOURNEY.

  1. 23 Break through the right hand edge of the roof. Climb to the chains above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

1 18 35m
2 21 15m
3 16 35m
4 18 20m
5 16 45m

A short route with excellent climbing starting 1m right of the main recess.

  1. 35m 18 Move up slightly right to the bottom of an obvious crack, is climbed until able to veer left to the base of a recessed crack which is climbed to a stance on loose blocks.

  2. 15m 21 (18A2) Traverse 6m left to below the first break through the overhang. Aid up, with 3 nuts, to a large ledge.

  3. 35m 16 Climb up the recess until forced to exit right. Traverse 10m right and them up to stance on a block.

  4. 20m l8 From the block drop down and traverse 2m right to below a crack. Climb the superb crack until able to move right onto a ledge with blocks.

  5. 45m 16 From the right of the stance move diagonally up to a rail. Rail right then climb up to a tree in the gully. Scramble off to top of the maze.

Notes:

  1. Variation: 4. 25m 20 Instead of moving right, continue straight up crack to ledge on the left with chains. 2 abseils take you back to the ground.

FA: Steven Mallory & Tarquin Holt, 1983

FFA: Mick Haffner, 1985

Start from the "nose" stance after the 3rd pitch of Lost Tribe.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Johnny Clegg, 1990

1 23 40m
2 20 40m

Start as for LOST TRIBE (about 10m right of the central break).

  1. 40m 23 Follow LOST TRIBE for a few metres until it veers off left. Continue up the layback crack until it ends. Traverse right and up to gain a recess leading to easy ground which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 40m 20 Climb up leftwards and pull through the roof at a crack. Continue left and up to gain LOST TRIBE's long hand crack/recess. Climb the crack and exit left to belay on a long narrow ledge (LOST TRIBE moves right slightly lower down).

Where to now? Either rap off, traverse right and scramble as for LOST TRIBE, or traverse left for about 25m and climb LOOK SHARP 's flake. Alternatively, the brave may traverse further left to gain an interesting recess which leads to slabs, ledges, corridors and pillars.

Notes:

  1. The first ascentionists took the last option described above to top out. Only the VERY brave should try it.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1990

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m.

  1. Climb crack and climb past bolt and good RP 4 to block. Climb wall above to large ledge.

Notes:

  1. The bolt is probably dubious by now. It was placed by Mr Cockburn after all.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Cockburn, 1990

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m and belay on the right end of the ledge.

  1. Climb past bolt to a good RP 4. Climb the wall and corner to large ledge.

Notes:

  1. The bolt is probably dubious by now.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Cockburn, 1990

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