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Bronkhorstspruit Crag

  • Grade context: SA
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 994
  • Aka: Bronkies

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Created 6 months ago

Seasonality

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Summary

Bronkies is the most popular crag in Gauteng. The crag offers easy access and good climbing all year round.

Description

The crag is on the banks of the Bronkhorstspruit river and is south-west facing - offering morning shade in summer. In summer it is best to go early and climb before the sun moves over, in winter it is better to go a little later and avoid the early morning chill.

The crag features easy access to a large number of very good single pitch sport routes.

Access issues

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R40 for adults R20 for school going children above 12 years old R10 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:

  • Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover).
  • Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas.
  • Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths.
  • Visitors may only go to the climbing area and the paths leading to it, other areas remain private.
  • No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though).
  • No fires are allowed.
  • Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site.
  • No overnight camping - climbers are only permitted during daylight hours.
  • Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out.
  • Take extreme caution when smoking. Pack out cigarette ends.
  • Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Bury / carefully burn toilet paper.
  • Respect other visitors.
  • Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs.
  • No guns allowed.

Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952.

Approach

From JHB: Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use. Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

Where to stay

No overnight camping at the crag.

Ethic

There are Verreaux's Eagles (Black Eagles) using 2 nesting sites at Bronkies.

During breeding season (April to August) it is restricted to climb routes close to the used nest. The closure extent is clearly marked at the first bolt of the first and last climb closed, and updated every year.

Limits as per 2019: from Joint Venture to Blue boots. (reopened since)

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy route 4m right of Ranger's Delight, up a broken pillar.

FA: Gareth Frost & Cindy Frost, 2007

Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

Variation (12): Start around the corner to avoid the crux and join the rest of the route from the 2nd bolt.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2002

Climbs the shallow corner/arete system just left of Ranger's Delight. Top crux is a little lead out.

FA: Tony Seebregts & Bridgette Kerst, 20 Dec 2015

Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above

FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts.

FA: N. Margetts & D. Margetts, 2003

Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17)

Set by Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, 1 Jun 2013

FA: 1 Jun 2013

Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003

Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section.

FA: Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, 2010

Set by Darrel Margetts, 2010

Very short and bouldery. Try to stay straight in line with the bolts.

Set by Darryl Margetts

FA: Evan Margetts, 2001

Takes the pretty open book 3m to the right of Fully. Short and cute.

FA: Bridgette Kerst & Tony Seebregts, 2016

FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

FA: Andrew Margetts, Darryl Margetts & Evan Margetts, 2008

This route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag

FA: Andrew Margetts, Darryl Margetts & Evan Margetts, 2008

Set by Neil Margetts, 2020

Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.

Set by Derek Pienaar

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Clip the first three bolts of Austin's Mojo. With the third bolt at your feet, move right onto the arete. Keep on or just left of the arete. This route has its own chains on the left of the arete.

FA: Dickie Talma, Feb 2014

Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks.

FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003

Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof.

FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003

Climbs the shallow corner just left of Mini Me, and then up through the rooflet and finger crack above. The bottom 3/4 of the climb are about grade 15.

FA: Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed & Bridgette Kerst, 2016

One move wonder through the roof.

FA: D. Margetts & Dave Taylor, 2003

Pretty innocuous route with the hardest move right at the start.

FA: Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, Nov 2014

Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003

Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag.

FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003

Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.

FA: Darryl Margeets & Gareth Frost, 2008

Awkwardly climb into recess, climb out of recess on good holds on the right. Go up easily to a ledge. Solve the riddle to get your feet above the undercut above the ledge.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Evan Margetts, 2010

Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!

FA: guenther bargon, 2004

Steep start on good holds. Quite reachy.

FA: guenther bargon, Jan 2011

Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.

FA: Steve Mallory & Gareth Frost, 2004

Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above. Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2003

Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt.

Set by Rory Lowther, 2004

FA: G. Lowther & C. Rudolph., 2005

Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on

Set by Roland Magg, 2002

FA: Steve Bretherick, 2008

Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.

Set by Rory Lowther, 2002

FA: Gary Lowther., 2004

Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb.

Set by David Wade

FA: David Wade, 2014

Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins!

Set by Andreas Kiefer

FA: David Wade, 2012

Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish.

FA: guenther bargon, 2005

Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof. The crux is to break through this to the chains. Alternatively go aorund left at about grade 18.

FA: Roland Magg, 2004

Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained.

FA: Roland Maggs, 2005

Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above.

Set by Darryl Margetts

FA: Bronwyn Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2007

Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt.

FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003

Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.

FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

For the boulderers! Short and powerfull!

FA: Mark Seuring, 2005

Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.

FA: Steve Mallory, 2004

Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.

FA: Steve Mallory, 2004

Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.

FA: Andreas Kiefer, 2001

Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches. Not possible to lower or abseil with a single 60m. Rather top out.

FA: Stephanie Mallory, 2004

Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2008

Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2002

FA: G. Lowther & Chris Rudolph, 2005

Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then branches left up to some steep climbing.

Set by David Wade, Mark Seurig & Mark Seuring

FA: David Wade, 2013

Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then does the dyno of red dragon and heads left through some steep terrain to join keep walking johnny at its crux and then heads left again up over a roof and along an arete and then joins black out for its last 3 bolts. once done it may be the longest route at the crag, at 28m??

Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!

FA: Mark Seuring., 2005

Starts on Keep Walking Johnny, then busts out left after Johnies crux to an arete. The line then joins Black Out for its last 3 bolts and ends on Black Out.

FA: Wesley Black, Feb 2019

Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained

Set by Rory Lowther, 2002

FA: G. Lowther, 2004

Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. Safest to use a 60m rope.

FA: Gareth Frost, Andrew Lloyd & Chris Havenga, 2004

Shares the first 4 bolts of 'Blue Suede Shoes' then continues straight up to chains with an interesting crux.

Set by David Wade

FA: David Wade, 2014

A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof.

Set by David Wade

FA: David Wade, Oct 2012

Sustained difficulty moves from bottom to top.

Set by David Wade

FA: David Wade, Oct 2012

Sustained powerful endurance line.

Set by Paul Bruyere, 2019

FA: Paul Bruyere, 2019

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2016

FA: Wesley Black, 2016

The obvious crack line right of the roof area/nests. Opened on trad by topping out. Retrobolted after eagle climbing ban was lifted.

FA: Ebert Nel, 2016

Set 2018

The following routes are located to the left of the Pre-2017 Eagle Sector. This area has more shade and can be a little more comfortable in summer.

An alternative approach is to start at the bottom of the parking area and following a trail above and parallel to the cliff face and then following a vague trail down a gully at the very left of the crag. Otherwise it can also be approached by just walking along the cliff from the normal approach.

Powerful bouldery line through a scoop/roof.

Set by Paul Bruyere, 2019

FA: Paul Bruyere, 2019

Powerful, big moves to big jugs, gate bending, dog bone munching line through a scoop/roof.

Set by Matthew Hoffman, 2019

FA: Matthew Hoffman, 2019

Starts 3m right of Paranoia. Slap, slap past the second bolt, then head up for smoof roof moof. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.

FA: Sarel Petrus, 3 Nov 2019

Upgraded from 22.

FA: Ian MacMaster & Ken Thrash, 2007

Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple.

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Long and sustained.

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Intense start, eases up after that

FA: Ian MacMaster & Ken Thrash, 2007

Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.

FA: Ian MacMaster & Ken Thrash, 2007

Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".

FA: Ian MacMaster & Ken Thrash, 2007

Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting.

Set by Daryl Margetts

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux). Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.

FA: Steve Mallory, 2004

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

FA: Gareth Frost & C. Havenga, 2004

Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below.

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Grade adjusted from 17

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Shares first 2 draws with Squeaker, then keeps left of it

Set by Niel Margetts, 3 Nov 2019

FA: Sarel Petrus, 3 Nov 2019

Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Very powerfull and bouldery crux.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2009

Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.

For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!

FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Warning Flora and Fauna: Bees

Move left at Ex Girlfriend Crack third bolt. A higher exit lowers the grade to 19.

FA: Hector Pringle & Alan Grant, 2008

Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun!

Set by Daryll Margetts & David Wade

FA: David Wade, Apr 2012

The steepest line at this section of the crag! Starts on some underclings. Some big moves on mostly good holds leads up to the white open-book/crack, which is the crux. A few powerful moves see you up to a ledge where you can rest before the last few thinner moves up to the chains. Lots of fun and quite sustained.

FA: David Wade, Apr 2012

Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder

Set by Andrew Porter & Chris Rudolph

FA: Gary Lowther, 2004

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