★★ Lucifer 15

Takes a line up the middle of the wall. Start where the scree is at its highest point against the face. Scramble up a yellow buttress on the right of the scree and walk 5m right to a recess.

1. Climb the recess past a block. Move left around the corner to a crack.

2. Climb up a recess and scramble up for about 45m to a steeper wall.

3. Over the left is a grassy recess with a gendarme about 8m to the right. Climb the right-hand side of this and from the top traverse right to laid back rock leading to ledges.

4. Traverse left to a chimney, Exit right and head diagonally right to a stance with a tree.

5. Climb the bottomless open book above, moving slightly leftwards.

6. Continue up the open-book which gains a large ledge.

7. Traverse off the right-hand side of the ledge and move up to belay on a ramp.

8. Climb the ramp to an open-book

9. Move up to a roof and pass it on the left. Continue straight up.

10. Scramble up easier rock to a ledge on the right beneath an overhang.

11. Climb through the gap on the right of the roof and so up to a ledge leading off rightwards into a gully.