Langkloof Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vince Egan Marc dM

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Langkloof 54 in Area
- 1.1. Rising Damp / Churchill Dam 1 in Crag
- 1.2. Blouberg (Kareedouw) 1 in Crag
- 1.3. Nguniland / Kareedow 18 in Crag
  - 1.3.1. Bobbejaankop 16 in Crag
  - 1.3.2. African Rennaissance 2 in Area
- 1.4. Kouga Wildernis / Joubertina 34 in Area
  - 1.4.1. Leopard Rock 26 in Area
    - 1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall 16 in Crag
    - 1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face 10 in Crag
  - 1.4.2. Lekkerdrinkwaterskloof 1 in Crag
  - 1.4.3. Koos Se Bos 7 in Area
    - 1.4.3.1. The Fortress 1 in Crag
    - 1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang 4 in Crag
    - 1.4.3.3. Immolation Wall 1 in Crag
    - 1.4.3.4. Up Yours Pinnacle 1 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Langkloof 54 routes in Area

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.840582, 24.142187

1.1. Rising Damp 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.993199, 24.459038

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Avoidance Behaviour FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2003	18	Trad 2

1.2. Blouberg (Kareedouw) 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.975893, 24.308460

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Dijeridu Or Die FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2002	16	Trad

1.3. Nguniland 18 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Bobbejaankop 2 African Rennaissance

Summary:: Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.929496, 24.262338

1.3.1. Bobbejaankop 16 routes in Crag

Summary:: Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.924234, 24.249211

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Free Willy FA: Derek Marshall	20	Trad
2	Impending Loom FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	20	Sport
3	De Railer Boulder traverse. FA: Morne van der Mescht	13	Boulder 11m
4	★★ Locomotive Breath FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	21	Trad
5	★ Seven Up FA: Garvin Jacobs, Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	18	Trad 2
6	Mazda Tree To Tree	18	Trad
7	Take Me To The Taliban		Unknown
8	Jinx Mixed route - 3 bolts on pitch 2. 20m (18) Climb lay-back overlap from sloping slab on railway line past 2 small roofs. Pull right to a stance on a steeply-sloping ledge. Gear is a tad thin. 23m (17) Climb diagonally left from the stance, over a bulge, and then diagonally up to the right on easy ground. Move up on small holds and flakes, clipping 3 bolts near the top. FA: Vince Egan, Morne van der Mescht & Bron Egan, 2003	18	Mixed trad 43m, 2, 3
9	★★★ Get Up Stand Up FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	19	Sport
10	★★★ Shoulder of Fortune FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	20	Trad
11	★ Derek The Dodgy Drillmeister Shares rings with Beam Me Up Skattie. Line is between Shoulder of Fortune and Beam Me Up Skattie. FA: Vince Egan, 2004	18	Sport 7
12	★ Beam Me Up Skattie Climb starts to the right of 'Shoulder of Fortune'. Climb up the front of the first overlap and step onto the face. Climb up delicately on crimpers to a large sloping ledge and a pair of rings. FA: Vince Egan, 2003	18	Sport 8
13	Compost Mentis FA: Bronwyn Egan, 2001	16	Trad
14	The Thot Plickens FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	17	Trad
15	Wattle-Lot-I-Got FA: Bron Egan & Vince Egan, 2001	17	Trad
16	Bushwhacker	15	Trad

1.3.2. African Rennaissance 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.927601, 24.269092

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Whipped His Ass FA: 2003	19	Sport
2		★ Mbeki's Denial FA: 2003	18	Sport

1.4. Kouga Wildernis 34 routes in Area

3 2 1

1 Leopard Rock 2 Lekkerdrinkwaterskloof 3 Koos Se Bos

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.713599, 23.842737

1.4.1. Leopard Rock 26 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.718622, 23.841016

1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall 16 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Purple Hearts FA: Alan Luck	14	Trad
2	Wild Berry FA: Michael Johnson	18	Trad
3	Defiantly Yellow FA: Matt Tranter	15	Trad
4	Y 2 The Left FA: Alan Luck	15	Trad
5	Y 2 The Right FA: Alan Luck	17	Trad
6	Purple Pellican FA: Derek Marshall	19	Trad
7	Purple Beret FA: Derek Marshall	17	Trad
8	R of Purple Beret FA: Michael Johnson	15	Trad
9	L of 'In the Pink' FA: Bron Egan	17	Trad
10	In The Pink FA: Michael Johnson	17	Trad
11	Deep Purple FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	16	Trad 12m
12	Zwartkopzicht FA: Steven Reed	16	Trad
13	Purple Pantyhose Eater FA: Derek Marshall	19	Trad
14	Fanta Grape FA: Alan Luck	18	Trad
15	13 Shades of Purple FA: Derek Marshall	17	Trad
16	Whiter Shades of Purple FA: Alan Luck	13	Trad

1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face 10 routes in Crag

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	House of Cards Vertical pile of creaky rubble - not worth chancing your skin... FA: Vince Egan, 2002	17	Trad
2	Wildlife FA: Matt Tranter, 2001	15	Trad 22m
3	Striatablasta FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan FA: 2001	15	Trad 24m
4	I Have Not Bin Laden Today FA: Bill Tucker & Lizanne Tucker	15	Trad
5	Walk In The Park	15	Trad
6	★★★ Ingwe FA: Vince Egan, 2002	21	Sport 28m
7	Meadowlands FA: Bron Egan & Vince Egan, 2002	14	Trad
8	★★ One Two One Zulu FA: Derek Marshall	20	Sport
9	★ Purple Rage FA: Derek Marshall	17	Trad
10	★ Helter Swelter FA: Bron Egan	18	Trad

1.4.2. Lekkerdrinkwaterskloof 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.712266, 23.846759

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Dammed If You Do FA: Allister Newman & Vince Egan, 2002	15	Trad

1.4.3. Koos Se Bos 7 routes in Area

3 Immolation Wall

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.695310, 23.828318

1.4.3.1. The Fortress 1 route in Crag

Summary:

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Bastion Buster FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2002	17	Trad

1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Ag Nobody Will Ever Come Here Anyway FA: Bron Egan & Vince Egan, 2002	18	Trad
2	★ Cycadelic Dreams FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	17	Trad
3	★★ Except Morne Rap anchors placed. FA: Morne van der Mescht, 2003	24	Trad
4	Breakdance To right of '1908' graffiti. FA: Morne van der Mescht, 2003	24	Trad

1.4.3.3. Immolation Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:: Lat / Long: -33.698910, 23.827413

	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Between Heaven and Hell Start to the left of an obvious nose towards the left of the crag, the climb goes under the nose from the left and then climbs the open book to the left of the nose (as you look at the crag. 25m (19) Climb diagonally up to the right, immediately below the overhang formed by the overhanging nose. Make an exposed move to the left to gain a ledge at the level of the overhang. Ascend the left-facing open book for about 7m and move right onto the bridge of the nose at a small bush. The stance is another 3m or so above this. 20m (17) Climb directly up an obvious fault line, pulling through the right side of a small overhang to gain a ledge with a huge balanced flake. 25m (20) climb the obvious and manky right-facing open book, making use of a crack for protection. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Climb up and to the left of a tree and awkwardly gain a chossy ledge on the left. Move right to regain the fault and ascend the wide crack above to a big grassy ledge. 30m (14) Scramble up easy rock to easy ground on the ridge. Descent via the gully to the west of the crag. FA: Morne van der Mescht, Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2003	20	Trad 100m, 4

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

★ Between Heaven and Hell

Start to the left of an obvious nose towards the left of the crag, the climb goes under the nose from the left and then climbs the open book to the left of the nose (as you look at the crag.

25m (19) Climb diagonally up to the right, immediately below the overhang formed by the overhanging nose. Make an exposed move to the left to gain a ledge at the level of the overhang. Ascend the left-facing open book for about 7m and move right onto the bridge of the nose at a small bush. The stance is another 3m or so above this.
20m (17) Climb directly up an obvious fault line, pulling through the right side of a small overhang to gain a ledge with a huge balanced flake.
25m (20) climb the obvious and manky right-facing open book, making use of a crack for protection. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Climb up and to the left of a tree and awkwardly gain a chossy ledge on the left. Move right to regain the fault and ascend the wide crack above to a big grassy ledge.
30m (14) Scramble up easy rock to easy ground on the ridge. Descent via the gully to the west of the crag.

FA: Morne van der Mescht, Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2003

Trad 100m, 4

1.4.3.4. Up Yours Pinnacle 1 route in Crag

Summary:

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Up Yours FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 2001	17	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
13		De Railer	Boulder 11m	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Whiter Shades of Purple	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
14		Purple Hearts	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Meadowlands	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
15		Bushwhacker	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Defiantly Yellow	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		R of Purple Beret	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Y 2 The Left	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		I Have Not Bin Laden Today	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
		Striatablasta	Trad 24m	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
		Walk In The Park	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
		Wildlife	Trad 22m	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
		Dammed If You Do	Trad	1.4.2. Lekkerdrinkwaterskloof
16		Dijeridu Or Die	Trad	1.2. Blouberg (Kareedouw)
		Compost Mentis	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Deep Purple	Trad 12m	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Zwartkopzicht	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
17		The Thot Plickens	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Wattle-Lot-I-Got	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		13 Shades of Purple	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		In The Pink	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		L of 'In the Pink'	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Purple Beret	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Y 2 The Right	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		House of Cards	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
	★	Purple Rage	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
	★	Bastion Buster	Trad	1.4.3.1. The Fortress
	★	Cycadelic Dreams	Trad	1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang
		Up Yours	Trad	1.4.3.4. Up Yours Pinnacle
18		Avoidance Behaviour	Trad 2	1.1. Rising Damp
	★	Beam Me Up Skattie	Sport 8	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★	Derek The Dodgy Drillmeister	Sport 7	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Jinx	Mixed trad 43m, 2, 3	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Mazda Tree To Tree	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★	Seven Up	Trad 2	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★	Mbeki's Denial	Sport	1.3.2. African Rennaissance
		Fanta Grape	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Wild Berry	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
	★	Helter Swelter	Trad	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
	★	Ag Nobody Will Ever Come Here Anyway	Trad	1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang
19	★★★	Get Up Stand Up	Sport	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★	Whipped His Ass	Sport	1.3.2. African Rennaissance
		Purple Pantyhose Eater	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
		Purple Pellican	Trad	1.4.1.1. Pinky-Purple Wall
20		Free Willy	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
		Impending Loom	Sport	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★★★	Shoulder of Fortune	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★★	One Two One Zulu	Sport	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
	★	Between Heaven and Hell	Trad 100m, 4	1.4.3.3. Immolation Wall
21	★★	Locomotive Breath	Trad	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop
	★★★	Ingwe	Sport 28m	1.4.1.2. Ingwe Face
24		Breakdance	Trad	1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang
	★★	Except Morne	Trad	1.4.3.2. Exception Overhang
?		Take Me To The Taliban	Unknown	1.3.1. Bobbejaankop