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Routes as trad in Free State

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Showing all 46 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Swinburne Midway Boulders Mountain Pursuits Boulder
14 The Pursuit of Happiness

Right of Pursuing Lisa.

FA: Pieter du Toit, 5 Mar 2011

Trad
Swinburne The North Face The West End
18 Trad Ain't Bad

FA: Roland Magg, 2002

Trad 35m
Alard's Project

This is Alard & Marianne's crazy trad project taking the large left slanting crack that heads all the way up the mountain on an east facing side. The start is in a forest just right of a short bolted line in the honeycomb rock.

TradProject
Swinburne The West Face William's Gorge
26 The Magician Project

Open project starting right of GOLDEN TORC, heading up just right of a small tree following an orange streak to the top.

Mixed tradProject 1
19 Stone Monkey

At the top of the gorge where the path hits the face it turns left to the commercial abseil station, here you should see a short overhanging open book about 4-5m high.

  1. 18 (8m) Climb this open book. Friends #0 to #1, or Rocks #2 & #5 in the corner protect a weird step out right to another crack, from which you pull up, then onto the arête. Rocks #7, #8, and #9 provide a bomber top-rope anchor, which is cleaned by down-climbing the arête.

FA: Dylan Morgan & Marianne Pienaar, 2000

Trad 8m
15 Randy Rooster's Rapid Access

This is an access route to the top of the mountain. Scramble up the water streak or up over the small cave to the right of STONE MONKEY. Traverse to the right ignoring odd bolts placed in odd places. Scramble up to the right at a tree, there will be a small pinnacle to your right, continue a little further around a corner to your left until you see a bolt on a small slab of rock. Climb up here to your left to another bolt. Climb up close to the left arête to a tree. Scramble up slightly left to the slabby rock. Continue past some rap chains (to exit) and into the vegetated gully. Follow this gully higher rather than lower to your left and exit on steepish terrain to the top.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 2000

Mixed trad 2
Swinburne Whale Rock Boulders Pacific Ocean Boulder
16 Open Project
TradProject
21 Tonga

On the western side of the Pacific Ocean boulder there is a perfect hands-to-fists-to-body crack. One piece each from Camalot t#3 to #4. Climb the crack on the west side of the PO boulder - named after the Tonga Trench on the western side of the Pacific Ocean.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 2000

Trad
Witkoppe
13 Mr. Perfect

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
15 A Face Called Wanda

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
12 Red Banner

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
14 Electric Guitar

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
12 Septic Toe

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
10 Happy Wanderer

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad 2
10 Sep-toe-seamia

FA: Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Eagle's Head Mountain Eagle Crag
17 A Steyn On Our Reputation
Trad 110m
18 A Steynless Route
Trad 110m
18 Hennie Boekwurm
Trad 85m
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Mt. Everest The Far Side
13 Underwater Horse Mechanic

FA: Gavin Peckham & Greg Wooding, 2001

Trad
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Mt. Everest Central Main Face
25 Lakes of Fire

FA: Pete Janschek

Trad
15 The Entertainer

FA: Greg Wooding & Mike Steininger, 1999

Trad 100m
12 Something To Do

FA: Gavin Peckham, Ivan van Cleef & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1999

Trad 40m
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Mooihoek Mountain Wish You Were Here Crag
13 Look Ma, No Friends
Trad 55m
16 Magic Carpet Ride
Trad 75m
14 Red Satin Face
Trad 100m
17 Seize the Day
Trad 110m
18 Ledge of Renewed Hope
Trad 70m
? Come Together
Trad
20 Mr Teatime's Neurological Accelerator
Trad 30m
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Mooihoek Mountain Slag Crag
19 Tortured Soles of the Untouchable Botanists
1 19 35m
2 14 40m
3 14 30m

FA: Alex Steyn & Jacques Raubenheimer, 1997

Trad 110m
25 Life
1 25 30m
2 17 30m
3 14 40m
Trad 100m
The Way Less Travelled

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

FA: Alex Steyn

Trad
Thor

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

FA: Alex Steyn

Trad
Cosmic Underrod Warrior

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

FA: Alex Steyn

Trad
Mt Everest Nature Reserve Mooihoek Mountain Dark Side
19 Rhyme of the Ancient Climber
1 19 10m
2 18 30m
3 16 15m
4 18 25m

FA: Jacques Raubenheimer & Hennie van Zyl, 1999

Trad 80m, 4
25 Use the Force
1 22 20m
2 21 20m
3 25 20m

A fixed runner was used as aid on the first ascent. The first free ascent awaits! The first ascentionists were UK climbers of the 'Hot Rock Global Challenge Team'.

FA: Richard Pike & Adam Beaven, 2002

Trad 60m, 3
22 Under the African Sun
1 22 35m
2 21 35m

A 60m ab gets you back down. The first ascentionists were UK climbers of the 'Hot Rock Global Challenge Team'.

FA: Richard Pike & Caroline Graham-Brown, 2002

Trad 70m, 2
Leliehoek Book of Knowledge Boulder
15 No Big Kahoonas

Climb the obvious crack right of No Thought. The route starts from the boulder. The potential exists for a much harder extension to the route from the ground up, or perhaps this is best climbed as a distinct boulder problem. The first ascentionist left all his smaller nuts at home, thinking he would need only the larger sizes for the crack. Probably only nuts smaller than a DMM#5 will be needed, or micro cams of the same size.

Trad
Thaba 'Nchu Plaque Boulder (The Seal)
13 Maria se Moses
Trad 10m
19 Sid se Moses
Trad 25m
Thaba 'Nchu Lunatic Fringe
13 Lunar Tic

From the car park, a large face can be seen to the left of the mountain. This is the Lunatic Fringe area, which can be easily identified by the half-circle shaped feature on the face. This half-circle is Lunar Tic.

Climb up the slope until it recurves. From here follow the crack line to the top. The crux is moving from the recurve to the crack line, which is not really protected (first pro on the line coming only when the crack has been reached). Probably the best way to climb this line is for the leader and belayer to solo the few metres up to the recurve, from where the belayer can be protected by a nut placed to the far right (on a good stance). From here there is much less rope drag, and the belayer can spot the leader until pro has been placed.

FA: S. Strydom (barefoot) & F. Prinsloo (1998), 1988

Trad
Umpukane Bokant Boeks se Huis
22 Superman

It can be top roped as there are anchor points at the top for a top belay. Second half follows the arête to the left of vertigo.

FA: Dawie & Jaco Venter, 2000

Trad 2
Umpukane Ronnie se Koppie Diamond Mine
{US} 5.8 Gawie's Route
Trad
Umpukane Ronnie se Koppie Ronnie's Koppie Frontal
YDS:5.9 Deon's Route
Trad
YDS:5.10d Piet My Vrou
Trad
Umpukane Ronnie se Koppie Rap Around the Clock
unknown

Not bolted yet, anchors only. Just right off Slab Route.

Set by Hendrik Combrink

Trad

Showing all 46 routes.

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