Access: COVID-19 lockdown Alert level 3

Adjusted Level 3 regulations as gazetted in Gazette 44044 of 29 December 2020, as amended by Gazette 44051 of 29 December 2020, Gazette 44066 of 11 January 2021 and Gazette 44130 of 1 February 2021.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 13 weeks ago




Downstream of the parking on the true right of the stream.

Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival at the security gate, state that you are going climbing. The guard will then ask you to fill in the register/indemnity and pay R30 per person. Otherwise please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalyptus.

Ethic inherited from King's Kloof

Access has been granted by the two religious organisations who own the land under the agreement that all the crag rules below are followed and that all new routes are given names with respectful christian connotations.

Job 1:21. The Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away. Please heed the following:

  • No alcohol
  • Take home all litter and refuse (including fruit peels and cigarette butts)
  • No destruction of vegetation
  • No interference with any animals
  • No soap or detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river
  • No loud music
  • No graffiti or defacing of rocks
  • Toilet activities must be more than 60m from streams with no trace visible afterwards. Carry out toilet paper. (Just use the bathrooms near the parking).
  • Be polite an courteous to all staff and management.
  • Only climbing allowed, no other activities permitted including fishing, quad bikes, motor bikes, hunting.



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Grade Route
1 13
2 13

Great route for beginners to learn to multi-pitch. Awesome view over King's Kloof.

Walk up the hill past Three Wise Men and around the corner for a bit. The route starts on a smooth orange slab.

  1. Climb diagonally to the left to the stance on the big ledge.

  2. Continue left, up the arête. Traverse right after the 3rd bolt. The head for the chains on top of the mounthain.

You can top out this route or abseil with two ropes (a single 70m works, or 60m might just make it with stretch)

Set by Johan Moelich, Jun 2012

FA: Johan Moelich & Neil Margetts, Jun 2012

The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains. All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s.

FA: David Tapp, 2011


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