Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago




There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival at the security gate, state that you are going climbing. The guard will then ask you to fill in the register/indemnity and pay R30 per person. Otherwise please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

Ethic inherited from King's Kloof

Access has been granted by the two religious organisations who own the land under the agreement that all the crag rules below are followed and that all new routes are given names with respectful christian connotations.

Job 1:21. The Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away. Please heed the following:

  • No alcohol
  • Take home all litter and refuse (including fruit peels and cigarette butts)
  • No destruction of vegetation
  • No interference with any animals
  • No soap or detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river
  • No loud music
  • No graffiti or defacing of rocks
  • Toilet activities must be more than 60m from streams with no trace visible afterwards. Carry out toilet paper. (Just use the bathrooms near the parking).
  • Be polite an courteous to all staff and management.
  • Only climbing allowed, no other activities permitted including fishing, quad bikes, motor bikes, hunting.



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Grade Route

project of Neil Margetts

Just before the chain scramble: The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Start as Eve, then straight up to a recesss, and through the 2 overhangs above

FA: Neil Margetts, May 2014

Just before the chain scramble: Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Starts just above the chain scramble: Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner..

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the head-wall; easier if you’re tall..

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis.

Set: David Tapp, 2010

FA: Neil Margetts, 2010

Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Set: Neil Margetts

FA: Taryn van Olden, Mar 2015

Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges!

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011 Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

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