Multipitch Trad facing the sea


a path starts behind the Hangklip Hotel in Pringle Bay



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Grade Route

MCSA Journal 1943 p53

FA: 1943

A New Route on the Hangklip, Cape (MCSA Journal 1960, p109)

FA: John Grindley, 1960

MCSA Journal 1961, p78-79

FA: W. Turner, 1961

1 E 33m
2 E 6m
3 D 24m
4 C 10m
5 D 40m
6 D 18m

MCSA Journal 1965, p113-114

FA: John Grindley, 1965

1 D 13m
2 D 10m
3 D 12m
4 D 15m
5 E 12m
6 E 10m
7 A2 10m
8 D 23m
9 E 17m
10 D 17m
11 E 10m
12 D 33m
13 F 27m
14 E 20m

MCSA Journal 1965, p114-115

FA: John Grindley & Frank Talbot, 1963

1 F1 25m
2 F2 10m
3 F2 22m
4 F3 10m
5 G1 20m
6 F1 20m

MCSA Journal 1981 p61

FA: Johnathan Gordon, 1981

1 E 25m
2 D 10m
3 E 8m
4 D 20m
5 E 15m
6 E 20m
7 E 25m
8 E 20m
9 E 18m
10 E 15m
11 B 25m
12 E 30m
13 E 26m
14 D 15m
15 D 6m

MCSA Journal 1989 p133-136

FA: Jeff Goy & Graham Scoble, 1989

1 C 35m
2 E 10m
3 E 20m
4 E 25m
5 B 40m
6 C 20m
7 E 25m
8 D 15m
9 E 8m
1 15
2 17
3 18
4 15
5 18

FFA: phlip olivier & Dom Huskisson, 15 Sep 2019

1 17/18
2 19/20
3 16
4 18
5 19
6 22
7 17/18
  • 50m: 17/18 for 5m, then 15 for 45m
  • 30m: roof with loosish rock (not recommended, rather avoid by climbing further to the right)
  • 22m: skirt the first little roof on it's right, then fairly straight up to large ledge.
  • 20m: layback pinch flake
  • 25m: white face *
  • 20m: first corner from boulder (19), then step up to gain 2nd face (22)
  • 55m: committing moves on smears

FFA: Danie Moolman & phlip olivier, 16 Dec 2019

1 22 25m
2 18 20m

Start: 20m to the left of Cape Pushover, aiming for the obvious corner below the overhangs.

  1. Climb the face and corner. Then traverse left along the lower (less obvious) rail until clear of the overhangs. A delicate move establishes you on the face. Tend to the right on another 8m of face climbing brings you to a stance.

  2. Avoid the bushes by climbing the slabby blunt arête consisting of large boulders. Then a short steep corner below a V-notch (crux) brings you to the Smiley rap and a few meters of scrambling further, to the cave. Have a T, then rappel down. Or do one of the cave pitches.

FA: Charles Hopkins, J. Fischer & phlip olivier, 3 Jan 2020

Start to the left of the Smiley Cave.

FA: Charles Hopkins, J. Fischer & phlip olivier, 3 Jan 2020

Climb the Centre of the Smiley Cave (FA aid).

FA: D. Moolman & phlip olivier, 23 Dec 2019

1 18 20m
2 18 20m
3 11 20m

FFA: phlip olivier & Elle, 28 Sep 2019

1 24
2 15

FFA: phlip olivier, Daniel Kirkman & Jan Fischer, 6 Oct 2019

1 16/17
2 15/16

FFA: Elle & phlip olivier, 28 Sep 2019

FFA: Danie Moolman & phlip olivier, 17 Nov 2019

1 21
2 17
3 17
4 14
5 14

Easy to combine pitches 3&4 or 4&5

FFA: Charles Standing, Daniel Kirkman & phlip olivier, 1 Nov 2019

1 19
2 16

FA: D. Moolman & phlip olivier, 23 Dec 2019

1 18 40m
2 26 20m
3 17 20m
  • 40m 18: Climb easily up gray slabby steps for about 15m to below the square roof. Skirt the roof on it's left, then tend slightly left up the corners (crux) to a small overlap. Balance through the overlap on to easier ground. Move up and right to squeeze between a large bush (on your left) and a small overhang (on your right). Continue easily to a large ledge.
  • 20m 26 (consensus needed): Follow the corner crack to the large roof. Traverse left, then boulder through the roof to a massive jug on the lip. Pull strenuously up the vertical holds to establish on the face. Move up and right for 2m, then left to semi hanging stance on small grassy patch.
  • 20m 17: Climb diagonally up and right, then follow a vague arête onto a few meters of slab. A few meters of steeper ground, then another slabby section takes you to a small grassy ledge that gets much wider to the right.

Rap at tat. Or walk right and scramble (roped) up the grassy ledges passed a tree (tat) to the top.

FFA: phlip olivier & Daniel Kirkman, 10 Nov 2019

FFA: Clinton Marteningo, Danie Moolman & phlip olivier, 17 Nov 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tony Lourens

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780987040343

This is a selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing found in the Western Cape of South Africa, covering over 1,350 routes

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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