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Higgovale Quarry

Rock: Rockfall 2019 November

it was noticed at Higgovale last week that a large part of the rock band that used to be at the top of the big slab that Umshimi Wami is on, is now lying at the bottom of the quarry. Also looks like a new fridge sized piece came off near the corner to the right of that slab.

The band of rock that Umshimi's chains are in looks completely cracked through on all sides and the bottom, and is sitting there on its own weight only. Someone has already removed one of the chains, hopefully in an effort to deter climbers.

If there is a good samaritan who can pry those blocks off there safely and just get the inevitable rockfall over with this might be the way to go.

In the meantime, use extreme caution and my advice would be to just avoid those routes altogether.

https://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81143&t=21731

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago

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Summary

Granite climbing in a quarry in the suburb of Higgovale. Quick and easy after work. Gets cold in winter.

Description

The only routes really worth doing are on The Polling Booth and, to a lesser extent, The Peanut Gallery. Although there is a smattering of other short routes on various arbitrary walls, these routes are basically crap. If you are really desperate, there are some unpleasant short routes on The Cinema.

Access issues inherited from Table Mountain

There is an entrance fee to Kirstenbosch.

A permit is required to access Orange Kloof.

Approach

Park here: (-33.942315, 18.402586) or (-33.941487, 18.401030). In more detail: from Tamboerskloof in the City Bowl, drive up Molteno Road, almost to the top, and turn right into Glencoe Avenue, drive to the end of the avenue and park before the boom. Please park considerately – not in the fire hydrant area, or in a way that will piss off the residents.

Cross the boom and walk for about a minute, then scramble over the shoulder to the right of the gate. Once in the quarry, walk to the right, first passing The Peanut Gallery on your right, to reach The Polling Booth, the largish flat wall at the end. The wall on your left as you enter the quarry is The Cinema.

Ethic

Bolting is allowed in the quarry.

History

History timeline chart

The first routes (at The Polling Booth) were bolted on South Africa’s first democratic election day in 1994. Since then, other parts of the quarry were developed, but many bolts and hangers have since been chopped or stolen. Over the years the area has had a somewhat dubious reputation for muggings, but in fairness to the old crag, there have been no reports for quite a few years. In general, popularity has been growing recently, thanks to the cleaning up and rebolting of some of the better routes by ARF, and the fact that more routes have been opened here.

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