★★★ Ocean of Fear 20 A3

Original grade 20 A3, freed at 28.

Start: from a ramp in the middle of the amphitheatre.

1. Climb the small corner to a handrail on the left. Gain a sloping ramp and traverse left to a belay ledge.

2. Traverse 10m left from the end of the ledge. Climb blocky rock at the end to a series of grooves. Belay next to a huge flake.

3. Hand rail the flake. Climb up and back right into a crack which is climbed to a ramp. Move right and layback to a ledge.

4. Climb the crack above to a sloping ramp. Move up and over a bulge. Rail left, then walk across to blocks on the Ledge of Forgotten Dreams.

5. Aid the crack and roof to a hanging belay (bolt).

6. A few free moves left before nailing the bulge to a rail. Aid left to a hanging belay in the corner.

7. Aid through the diagonal crack and up the wall to a hanging belay beneath the biggest roof.

8. Aid/free along the rail left.

9. Aid left into the corner, around and up a vertical crack. Aid and free moves lead to a sloping ramp belay (Bev Bivvi).

10. Aid the crack/corner to the roof. Go left and nail a thin crack leading to a hanging belay.

11. Climb diagonally right to a roof. Handrail left and turn the roof at its left-hand end. Move up to belay in a small corner on the right.

12. Start on the right, and handrail left across a flake to a blocky ledge. Go left to a ramp. Climb this to a wall and rail left to 'Ecstasy Ledge'.

13. Traverse right to the corner, stem it and move left. Climb the wall diagonally left to a ledge below a crack.

14. Climb the crack and continue to the highest ledge. Traverse/walk left and finish up the last 100m of LF route.