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Stormwatch Area

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 45
  • Aka: Lower Area

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Fernkloof

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

Before entering the main kloof the stream passes through a narrow gap with a steep bolted wall on the true left. Routes are listed from left to right when facing the wall.

©

Ethic inherited from Fernkloof

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the recess/hand crack just to the left of TSSPMQ.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2007

15 using th eopen book. 17 using the thin fae on the right without the left corner

FA: Neil Margetts, 2006

Climb the left hand side of the Lower Area. Starting behind a tree, climb up steep rock and move diagonally right to a groove. Climb this to the top. The tree you start behind has a bees nest halfway up the tree. The climb was first opened ground up on trad trending more left at the start and then up right. The direct bolted variation is about 24. Use the rightmost bolts at the start.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & J. Colenso, 1988

Steep line first opened on natural gear.

FA: K. Smith, 1991

Start from the river bed at the base of the boulders, a spot is a good plan here to stop the climber falling backward into the rock. Continue up as for VANDALS. This variation adds a bit of pump to the already sustained VANDALS.

Starts on Vandals, uses the first 3 bolts of Vandals then breaks right onto Hoodlum and continues on hoodlum to the top.

Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on Vandals chains.

FA: Wesley Black, 2012

Step out over the pool and follow four bolts leftward finishing up the crack. Additional natural gear is recommended.

FA: K. Smith, 1991

A steep natural crack line just left of FABERGE. This becomes a jelly of wasps in winter. It climbs the crack directly above the boulder with a U-bolt in it.

FA: K. Smith., 1988

A classic sustained route, a must do!

FA: R. Nattras, 1990

A complex and sequential sport journey, not a give away at its grade! It was the first 31 in the country even though there was no 30 yet at the time. The direct start is grade 32.

FA: R. Nattras, 1990

Start in the upstream facing corner of BREAKING THE RULES before moving left onto the face above. A good, pumpy route.

FA: Clive Curson

Fernkloof forms a short narrow gorge just before it opens out to the north. Halfway down the steep left hand wall of this gorge is an upstream facing dihedral.

  1. 20m 23 Climb the dihedral, move right, and continue up a groove to the top.

FA: K.M. Smith, 1986

Starts just right of the arete moving up slightly rightwards up to a cubby hole with chains on the left of this. This route has been recently re-bolted.

FA: J. Colenso & T. Rogers

Start just left of the leaning tree, a fun route.

FA: K. Smith

Starts in the tree. A good route although a bit necky. Don't fall low down or you could end up straddling the tree - ouch! The bolts are also suspect - take care.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss

A single u-bolt serves as an anchor to this project. The route takes the black streak right of SULTANS OF SWING.

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