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Access: COVID-19 lockdown Alert level 3

Adjusted Level 3 regulations as gazetted in Gazette 44044 of 29 December 2020, as amended by Gazette 44051 of 29 December 2020, Gazette 44066 of 11 January 2021 and Gazette 44130 of 1 February 2021.

http://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-3

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Created about a year ago - Edited 12 weeks ago

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Description

The routes in the upper section of the kloof are mostly on the True Right and generally two pitches in length, about 45 to 60 metres high.

Access issues inherited from Trident Kloof

Permission is for MCSA members and one guest per member only. The owner requires to be notified by Tuesday before the weekend one wants to visit. Contact MCSA JBH to organize access.

Access is restricted to Cavern Kloof only, the westernmost of the 3 kloof of Trident complex. Access to Middle and Kronkel kloofs (eastern two kloofs of the Trident Kloof complex) is not permitted.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information https://mcsajohannesburg.org/climbing-and-hiking-venues/nw/trident-magaliesberg/ Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Descent notes

On the True Right, Walk off at either end of the kloof.

Ethic inherited from Trident Kloof

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the upper reaches of Trident Kloof a steep grassy gully enters the kloof on the right side opposite the entrance of a well-wooded side kloof on the left side. This gully is bounded on the downstream side by a steep rock wall about 40m long terminating in TRIDENT CHIMNEY. Starting at a point near the lower portion of the gully where it reaches the bottom of Trident kloof, the climb goes up the main rock face adjacent to the ridge bounding the gully. The route is not well defined and a fair amount of variation is possible, becoming more difficult downstream.

FA: J. Botha & F. Pretorius

1 15 25m
2 19 -
3 13 -

Start just right of NEPTUNE.

  1. 25m 15 Climb good-looking recess 2m upstream of NEPTUNE for 20m. Traverse right immediately below NEPTUNE'S ledge. Stance at end of ledge.

  2. ?m 19 Climb left hand weakness immediately above pillarlet to good ledge (good well-rounded grips). Traverse right to small tree and up grey slab to obvious traverse line left. Traverse left for 4,5m. Stance below first recess (parallel to NEPTUNE'S recess).

  3. ?m 13 Climb recess for 3m. Move diagonally up and right to top.

FA: J. de Groot & G. Graafland, 1985

1 13 25m
2 13 20m
3 15 22m

The climb starts about 10m to the right (upstream) of the start of NEPTUNE.

  1. 25m 13 Climb face 10m, traverse right 3m and move up to large ledge and stance.

  2. 20m 13 Move up 2m, traverse left 3m into shallow recess. Climb recess and small face to stance.

  3. 22m 15 Ascend face moving about 2m to the left then diagonally up to the right. Traverse 3m left then vertically up to the top.

FA: Merv Prior & R. Green, 1987

1 13 14m
2 15 15m
3 13 30m
4 6 9m

The climb is situated on the centre of the face between TRIDENT RIDGE and TRIDENT CHIMNEY. It starts at a point where the bottom of the face is slightly undercut.

  1. 14m 13 Ascend a steep grey face, passing to the right of a large poised block, traverse right under a small overhang and thence up to a comfortable stance having a stout tree on it.

  2. 15m 15 Starting about 2,5m to left of tree, ascend to overhang, then traverse right to base of open book. The open book is the crux of the pitch. It ends on a narrow ledge (stance).

  3. 30m 13 Traverse right past overhanging recess for about 8m and then ascend 12m bearing slightly left until a smaller recess (which was also passed at a lower level during the traverse) is reached. There is a small tree in the recess a few metres higher. Traverse left onto a small exposed buttress and continue up to a stance about 3m higher in grassy cubby hole.

  4. 9m 6 Ascend diagonally to the right on rough granulated rock to the summit.

Variations:

1a. 11 There are easier variations on either side of Pitch 1.

2a. 6 The open book of Pitch 2 can be avoided by traversing left at its base onto easy rock which continues to the narrow ledge.

3a. 11 Instead of traversing left onto "exposed buttress" in Pitch 3, continue up recess past the small tree.

FA: R. Davies, T .J. Louw & D.M. Williamson, 1952

1 10 22m
2 11 25m
3 15 34m

The climb is situated 5m to the left of NEPTUNE, just to the left of the large poised block and is beaconed. The climb follows the most feasible line on the large bare face between TRIDENT CHIMNEY and NEPTUNE.

  1. 22m 10 From the beacon up the left hand crack of a fault line to take off, then straight up for 9m, keeping well left of large poised block. At the level of the top of the block, traverse 9m left and up onto a large ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 25m 11 Walk along the ledge to the right, up and around on broken mass of jutting out rock then diagonally up to the right and through a 3m high flat-backed V-shaped recess. From the top of this down 1,5m to the left to a small tree on a small stance. tree and nut belay.

  3. 34m 15 Up from tree for 3m, then diagonally left towards a conspicuous nose 3m or so away. Up onto the nose, then ascend vertically for 18m until a ledge obscured by a vine hanging down the face is reached. From the ledge traverse 3m right to a platform. Up a few metres and scramble 6m diagonally to the left over blocks to a tree belay.

Note: In the opening ascent a sling tied to the vine was the only protection found after a 22m runout, hence the climb's name.

FA: T. O'Connor & Roy Kendall, 1975

Approximately 50m downstream from the start of the main rock face on the right hand side of the kloof the rock wall makes a double right angle bend first into the kloof then back to its normal line parallel with the kloof. At the internal angle of this bend is a deep and prominent chimney with various chockstones caught in it. The route follows the chimney to the top. Climb out on right at top.

Note: There is loose rock in the chimney requiring care.

FA: T. Bright & H. Wong, 1947

1 14 12m
2 14 15m
3 15 9m
4 9 15m

The climb is immediately adjacent to TRIDENT CHIMNEY. The entire route follows the face of the rockwall facing upstream due to its right-angled bend. (See location of TRIDENT CHIMNEY.)

  1. 12m 14 Up sloping grey slab starting on right and bearing diagonally left. A study in thin climbing. A ledge and small tree for belay.

  2. 15m 14 Up corner on right side of ledge to overhang, step out to left and to top of gendarme with a big tree as belay. (Strenuous.)

  3. 9m 15 A few metres up rock face behind tree, short traverse to left and follow a deep sharp crack to ledge with a very large detached but substantial block as belay.

  4. 15m 9 Up in corner to summit.

Variation: 2a. 15 About 3,5m up pitch 2, traverse right onto ridge and continue up steep rock with good grips.

FA: T.J. Louw, W.L. Curie, E. Lude & E. Pearlstein, 1947

1 18 15m
2 21 40m

Start 3m left of GEORGE.

  1. 15m 18 On the left side of the grey slab is a thin crack. Climb this to a ledge with two small trees.

  2. 40m 21 Take off from the left end of the ledge and climb up 5m to a mini-stance. Move diagonally right for a few moves then up to an incut rail (good friend placements). Traverse right for one metre then move up using a layback hold (to avoid GEORGE). Climb up diagonally left and then up the grey slab to the top. (Avoid the arete, finish up a grassy break.)

Note: This route is not well protected.

FA: George Mallory & Kevin Smith, 1985

1 18 15m
2 18 12m
3 10 15m

The route is located between GEORGE and HEADACHE. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of HEADACHE, but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.

  1. 15m 18 Start from same ledge as HEADACHE but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).

  2. 12m 15,A1 Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of GEORGE.)

  3. 15m 10 Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.

Variations: 2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose. 2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.

FA: R. Davies, P . Scott & M. Urban, 1960

1 11 18m
2 16 3m
3 17 18m
4 10 12m

The route starts about 20m downstream of GEORGE midway between two large trees, of trunk diameters approx. 3/4 to 1m. Ascend easy rock to a rock ledge about 9m.

  1. 18m 11 Follow the line of a very definite corner vertically up from the ledge to a small stance where the corner ends in an overhang.

  2. 3m 16 Ascend to a narrow ledge to the left of the overhang at the top of the sloping slab, slightly to left of the start.

  3. 12m 8 Traverse 14m left into prominent crack (EASY OPTION).

Variations:

3a. 18m 17 For an independent finish traverse left 6m from the stance at top of Pitch 2. Then ascend into a small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out to the right and ascend a steep face (strenuous) to a big ledge where a small block rests. This pitch is midway between pitch 2 above and the crack of EASY OPTION.

3b. 18m 17 From the top of pitch 2 continue up crack directly above to top. This is a more direct finish than 3a above.

  1. 12m 10 Ascend rough rock to top.

FA: T. Louw, L. Lincoln, G. Thompson, R. Davies & R. Charlton, 1948

1 17 30m
2 17 24m

Start 5m to the left of the first pitch of HEADACHE, where there is a small recess leading up to a smooth face. Ascend easy rock for about 9m to a large ledge below the recess.

  1. 30m 17 Gain the recess by a difficult layback move and continue up the face just to the right of the recess for about 5m before traversing back left into it. Climb up for 3m, step out left onto the arete and continue up a further 2m to the slanting overlap at the top of the recess, where a small nut runner can be placed. Move up a few metres and then step out left onto the steep face. Climb up this, diagonally left for the first 5m and then diagonally back right and up to a small stance with thread belay about 5m left of the stance on top of pitch 2 of HEADACHE.

  2. 24m 17 (Same as variation for pitch 3 of HEADACHE) Ascend diagonally leftward into small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out right and ascend steep face and then continue more easily to the top.

FA: Paul Fatti, J. Anderson & M. Saunders, 1969

1 13 18m
2 14 30m

15m downstream of SWISS ARMY KNIFE is a gully. Walk up gully for 10m to the start of rock proper.

  1. 18m 13 Climb the corner formed by a left slanting crack and a face to the left of it for 10m. Exit onto big ledge to the right. Walk along ledge for 8m to a broken corner.

  2. 30m 14 Climb broken corner and follow recess above to top. Tree belay.

Note: Surprisingly good climbing on clean rock. 2 very old pitons were found on pitch 2.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Chris Ziranek, 2008

1 11 22m
2 9 20m

Start about 3m to right of EASY WAY OUT.

  1. 22m 11 Ascend face moving left for 2m then straight up for 6m. Climb left into diagonally right sloping corner crack up to corner belay 14m.

  2. 20m 9 Proceed directly up easy face. Ascend to top moving slightly left.

FA: H. Wong

The start is from approximately the same position as for EASY OPTION. Having gained the rocky ledge about 9m above stream bed follow this to its left extremity from where a 3,5m wide slab inclined at an easy angle slopes up almost to the summit. The route lies on this slab all the way to the top.

FA: R. Forsyth

1 11 18m
2 17 18m

The climb is situated just below EASY WAY OUT, starting behind prominent pinnacle.

  1. 18m 11 Start up face. Traverse 3m right into crack. Climb overhang in crack and continue up crack to stance below face.

  2. 18m 17 The pitch follows a shallow crack, sloping slightly left, with an eyehole at the top which is visible from below. Start pitch by mantleshelf and then move left to crack. Follow the crack to the eyehole which is at an overhang and finish up short face to top. This pitch was opened artificially, but has since been found feasible free.

Variation:

  1. 18m 17 Instead of the first pitch, ascend the steep face immediately behind the pinnacle.

FA: R. Charlton, B. Penzhorn, M. Urban & S. McLean, 1960

1 15 20m
2 17 10m
3 19 10m
4 19 10m
5 17 15m

Route takes a column and then a wall to the left of FANLIGHT.

  1. 20m 15 Climb front of column turning the headwall on the left.

  2. 10m 17 Step across from summit of the column onto the wall (4m to the left of FANLIGHT). Step diagonally left into shallow recess, then straight up steep wall 5m. Then good holds lead to belay stance.

  3. 10m 19 Traverse left on a slab wall to stance directly opposite by using hand rail or by making fine moves slightly higher.

  4. 10m 19 Step back right onto wall and climb shallow recess making gymnastic moves near the top to reach small stance under summit overhangs.

  5. 15m 17 Traverse right 5m (where a stance can be made if rope drag is anticipated). Step up left onto sloping block and make exposed moves over roof then climb wall to summit.

Note: Owing to zig-zag nature of route the pitches have been kept short.

FA: Clive Ward & Alvin Wood, 1980

The climb is located about 10m upstream from PROBOSCIS and generally follows the buttress on the right of PROBOSCIS. The crux of the route is a series of small overhangs at the same level as the crux pitch on PROBOSCIS. The route here bears left until a ledge is reached just right of the nose of PROBOSCIS, thence up and slightly right (steep) and past a small cabbage tree. A grey face finishes the climb. There are several variations to the lower part of the climb.

FA: M. Urban, H. Blades, P. Street & R. Charlton, 1960

1 7 15m
2 12 8m
3 17 14m
4 10 12m

The climb starts about 15m upstream from CRESCENDO opposite a large tree with trunk about 60cm in diameter. There is a small but prominent triangular overhang about 18m up which resembles a nose. The nose points downstream. The route goes to the left of the nose.

  1. 15m 7 Start on a staircase which goes up to the left. Then climb diagonally right to a wide ledge. This pitch is on grey rock. The remainder of the climb is on red rock.

  2. 8m 12 Start at left hand end of ledge with a pull-up. Continue up to another ledge on which there is a tree over to the right.

  3. 14m 17 Start at left hand end of ledge again. The face slopes back initially but is rather devoid of grips. It then steepens but the grips are good. At the top of the steep section which passes to the left of the nose, climb out to the right onto a small ledge. Piton belay.

  4. 12m 10 Continue up pleasant clean rock to the top.

FA: D. Bell & F. Villa, 1950

1 11 20m
2 19 40m
3 13 15m

The climb starts about 30m upstream from the start of HOSPITAL HILL, at a point where a tall tree is growing close to the cliff. Beginning up a small chimney and continues up an attractive open book to a small tree, then traverses left over Lobotomy and back right again to finish straight up above the starting point.

  1. 20m 11 Climb up chimney and open book until you reach a small stance with a small tree.

  2. 40m 19 From the stance move slightly right and up for 3m to a small rest point on a large sloping ramp. Then traverse left for 7m (strenuous) to a very exposed rest point below a large semi detached flake. Move around the flake on the left and continue rightwards (awkward), then move rightwards (10m) to a small ledge with 2 good pegs in place.

  3. 15m 13 Traverse left for 15m and then climb up short steep face above, between 2 large aloes to the top.

Note: A pleasant and exposed route spoilt by poor protection and bad rock.

FA: Neil Margetts, 1985

1 11 15m
2 15 18m
3 15 -

FA: R. Davies & R. Charlton, 1956

1 11 15m
2 15 18m
3 17 22m

The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high "Gothic" cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.

  1. 15m 11 Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.

  2. 18m 15 Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one's fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.

  3. 22m 17 Traverse left and diagonally upwards for about 6m where a piton can be placed which safeguards both the leader and last man on the previous pitch. Climb up onto a small leaning-out ledge by means of a long arm pull then traverse 12m to the right round a nose and up past a clump of aloes.

Note: Exposed. Strength and balance required.

Variation:

3a. 15 (CATS WALK) Instead of pitch 3 above ascend the face directly above the stance. To get onto this face, a small overhang must be negotiated followed by a delicate traverse to the right (difficult). Then continue directly upwards on steep rock with good holds to the top. This variation is easier and less strenuous than the original pitch 3. (1956 R. Davies and R. Charlton)

FA: E. Scholes & P. Campbell, 1949

1 13 15m
2 15 15m
3 20 22m

This climb, which has a common start with CRESCENDO follows an exposed line to the right of the high cave of HOSPITAL HILL.

  1. 15m 13 Climb directly up to a large tree 5m above the ground and then continue diagonally rightwards via a small overhang to a small ledge. Stance is common with CRESCENDO.

  2. 15m 15 Climb the recess above the stance for 5m and then traverse left for 3m along an exposed ledge. A long pull up leads on to another ledge and then continue straight up the exposed face to a very small stance with peg and nut runner belays about 3m below the overhangs and 5m right of the lip of the cave.

  3. 22m 20 Step down 1,5m from stance and traverse left for 3m across the face to below a 2m recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to the overhang and make an exposed traverse left and then up to surmount the overhang. Continue up steep rock to a small ledge at the base of the recess. Traverse left for 1,5m and then climb the slightly overhanging face, initially on good holds, but getting poorer higher up to an off-balance resting place where a small nut runner can be placed for protection. Traverse left across the exposed face just above the roof of the cave and continue on off-balance traverse to the grey face opposite, where the angle eases. Climb easily to the top.

FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1972

FFA: Kevin Smith & M. Mears, 1981

1 17 25m
2 20 30m

Start 5m upstream of CASUALTY WARD i.e. at the upstream entrance to the cave which is several metres above the ground.

  1. 25m 17 Climb up to a recess and continue up to a roof 20m up. Traverse right around the arete to gain a ledge just above a small tree on the Apex face.

  2. 30m 20 Climb up diagonally right past a large loose block to a ledge then back diagonally left to the top of a block. From there move strenuously up to big jugs and finish diagonally right on smaller holds. Exit just right of aloes.

Note: Steep sustained face climbing mostly on good jugs.

FA: George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1985

1 21 25m
2 15 25m

Start as for HOSPITAL HILL, i.e. scramble up to the base of the high "Gothic" cave which reaches right to the top of the crag. In the right wall of the cave is an overhanging jam-crack.

  1. 25m 21 Climb the jam-crack into a small resting cave. Continue up the steep crack to belay in the deep, sloping cave. (Large nuts useful for runners.)

  2. 25m 15 Chimney out spectacularly and horizontally to the lip of the cave and up the slab to the top.

FA: Dave Cheesmond, B. Cross & Chris Lomax, 1979

1 9 12m
2 15 5m
3 17 17m
4 15 18m

Start a few meters downstream of CRESCENDO from a cave high up. An intriguing route.

  1. 12m 9 Traverse right and ascend 12m into gloomy gully closed in at top. (This is the cave with the pointed roof referred to in description of CRESCENDO.)

  2. ?m 15,A1 Ascend 5m and then traverse left out of the gully onto steep face. Around the corner is a fixed piton. Abseil 8m from piton and pendulum to ledge 3m to left (piton belay).

  3. 17m 17 Ascend 9m then traverse 8m to the left between two overhangs. The overhang above is very large, the one below smaller and ripple-marked. (The first 1,5m of the traverse is the crux.) Piton belay at end of traverse.

  4. 18m 15 Up and slightly right on steep rock with fair grips.

Variations:

2 and 3. 20 Avoid abseil by dropping down onto rail. Rail left strenuously.

3 and 4. 20 From crux move slightly left, then up overhanging recess strenuously to top. (Oct 1979 D. Cheesmond, B. Gross and C. Lomax)

FA: R. Davies & B. Penzhorn, 1963

1 15 22m
2 17 25m

The climb is located between EVE'S PLEASURE and HOSPITAL HILL. Start at cave.

  1. 22m 15 Climb obvious crack just left of cave, continue easily to a little cavern on right. Belay.

  2. 25m 17 From right hand side of cavern climb diagonally right past fixed piton and up a further 2,5m. Traverse 1,5m right to below little overhang. This is just left of third stance of HOSPITAL HILL. Ascend overhang strenuously to welcome resting place. Continue straight up to fixed piton driven in deeply. At this point the face is overhanging. Swing out right, onto little nose, ascend diagonally right to top.

Note: Protection is good but scarce.

FA: J. Esterhuyse & R. Davis, 1978

1 15 25m
2 20 25m

The climb starts 2m to the left of the "obvious crack" in DECEPTION first pitch, crosses the line of HOSPITAL HILL and finishes up the steep face to the right of HOSPITAL HILL'S top grade 20 pitch.

  1. 25m 15 Climb to top of open book. Move right and step onto the face on the right. Move around the corner and climb diagonally right for 6m to stance at a peg 2m below the steep recess of HOSPITAL HILL'S top 20 pitch.

  2. 25m 20 Traverse 2m right to beneath a short open book capped by an overhang. On the undercut right hand wall of this open book is an obvious horizontal crack. Reach up to the rail and climb up and to the right until you can stand out on the tip of the nose formed by the right wall of the open book (crux). Climb diagonally left for 2m then continue up steep face to the top bearing slightly right (sustained).

FA: J. van Eeden & S.J. Mallory, 1982

1 7 9m
2 13 5m
3 15 20m
  1. as per Bliksem

  2. as per Bliksem

  3. 20m 15,A1 A bold lassoo on the third pitch avoids the use of excessive aid. From the top of the second pitch, step across the open groove and gain a steep recess by an awkward move. (Peg in place.) Climb the recess moving right at the top to a fixed piton under an overhang. At this point, the original route traversed left. Lasso a spike above the overhang and, using a sling for aid, climb the overhang direct. After moving up for a few metres, traverse right around a nose and then climb to a good stance and belay.

FA: P. Goodridge & David Hughes, 1974

1 7 9m
2 13 5m
3 13 22m

Begin just right of the cave above the scree slope.

  1. 9m 7 Climb as for EVE'S PLEASURE, then traverse out to the right and up until past the tree in the open book on the left.

  2. 5m 13 Straight up in the open book. (Variation: Traverse out right at the first opportunity.)

  3. 22m 13 Climb over the crack on an overhanging slab and traverse right and then up to a fixed piton, then left and up to a block from where the overhang can be overcome. Again right and up until past the last overhang. Scramble 3m to belay.

FA: H.M. Verloren van Themaat & J. du Plessis, 1966

Start 20m upstream from SKELETON CAVE and scramble up 10m to large cave. Walk left and upwards to tree belay.

  1. 40m 10 From tree traverse left (very exposed) to overlook SKELETON CAVE, then ascend steeply, exiting to the right just past a tree. Continue easily to the top.

FA: R. Charlton, E. Bannerman, T. Martins, M. Lude & J. Bett, 1949

1 15 18m
2 13 22m

The route starts immediately to the left of a cavern situated above a prominent scree slope.

  1. 18m 15 The first pitch starts on a ledge on top of sloping rock. Above this stance the rock wall forms an obtuse vertical angle. The first pitch goes up the easier inclined face to the right of the angle to a small platform.

  2. 22m 13 Up the angle for about 2,5m then a traverse of about 4m left, thence diagonally up towards the right to a shallow recess which starts at an overhang. There is a small tree in this recess. Pass the tree and continue up the recess to the summit.

Note: There is some loose rock on the second pitch, which can, however, be avoided with care.

FA: T. Louw, L. Lincoln & H. Howard, 1948

1 18 18m
2 13 12m

The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of SKELETON and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of SKELETON CAVE and chockstone belay, below the corner.

  1. 18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by SKELETON is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.

  2. 12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.

FA: A.D. Barley, R.P. Barley, K. Fletcher & A. Carmen, 1968

1 15 8m
2 15 22m
3 11 12m
4 10 22m

This climb is on the buttress about 15m downstream from SKELETON, starting to the right of a very large block at the foot of the face.

  1. 8m 15 Ascend a steepish face, with sloping grips, to a platform with a small tree. This pitch can be obviated by scrambling up easy rock around to the right.

  2. 22m 15 Ascend loose-looking but easy rock for 5m (fixed piton), traverse left under a small overhang and then ascend 5m to a larger overhang (eye running belay point). From here traverse left and ascend easier rock for 12m to a small stance (fixed piton).

  3. 12m 11 Ascend then traverse right and ascend to a cubby hole in which there is a stamvrug tree.

  4. 22m 10 Ascend the face to the left of the recess above the cubby hole. About 12m up, the climb proper ends at a wide terrace, but one can continue up the face for another 9m on steep rock.

Variations: a. 13 At the level of the terrace on pitch 4, traverse left under some creepers and ascend the face about 9m downstream of pitch 4. b. 17 From top of pitch 2 ascend straight up i.e. avoiding the traverse right to the stamvrug tree. One can then end up on the normal pitch 4 or continue up and out left with variation (a).

FA: R. Davies, F. Villa, E. Chadwick & H. Lude, 1949

1 17 A2 15m
2 15 10m
3 9 30m

Scramble up to a recessed crack in a steep face midway between PINNACLE ROUTE and PINK CORNER.

  1. 15m 17,A2 Climb the steep recess 4m to a peg. Aid up (5 points) moving left at the top. Pull up and climb into a niche. A more comfortable stance can be made 3m to the right.

  2. 10m 15 Traverse to the right, crossing the Pink Corner route, until beneath a tree. Climb up to the tree. Stance common with PINK CORNER.

  3. 30m 9 Traverse right 2m, then straight up just to the left of a ridge. Continue to the top.

FA: E. Pickl, E. Budding & Eckhart Haber, 1976

1 5 12m
2 19 18m
3 19 24m

The route starts between PINNACLE ROUTE and PINK CORNER and goes up the right hand side of the prominent red wall between the two routes.

  1. 12m 5 Scramble up the obvious recess to a broad ledge below the red wall.

  2. 18m 19 Climb the vague break directly above the recess of the first pitch, bearing left just above a bolt (found in place by the opening party). Belay on a small stance on the right, close to the belay on PINK CORNER.

  3. 24m 19 From the top of the last pitch, climb up for about 1,5m before moving right, then up a further 1,5m until it is possible to move left into a corner. Climb the corner to the top.

FA: E. February & Alan Lambert, 1979

1 10 25m
2 11 30m

Start just downstream of PINK CORNER at easy grey slab with corner on right. Scramble up slab (5) to ledge and continue leftwards past trees to base of pinnacle (upstream side).

  1. 25m 10 Ascend corner between pinnacle and main cliff and walk through behind pinnacle to far side (possible stance behind pinnacle). Step down slightly on downstream side of pinnacle and then traverse (crux) to tree (slight ascent) and on to large ledge (slight descent) and good stance.

  2. 30m 11 Climb easily up leftwards to top of large block (15m). Step off block to left and ascend steeply to top.

Variations possible on front of pinnacle (10), and to the left of the block on pitch 2, (5) or right (13)

FA: T. Bright & T. Louw

1 11 34m
2 19 20m

The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of ILLEGITIMATE. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.

  1. 34m 11 Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the right hand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.

  2. 20m 19 Continue to the top of the pinnacle. Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.

Notes:

  1. 2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously.

  2. It is unknown who made the first free ascent.

FA: Paul Fatti, D Peters & Art McGarr, 1974

1 16 18m
2 10 12m
3 18 15m

Downstream from PINK CORNER, on the same side of the kloof is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.

  1. 18m 16 Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)

  2. 12m 10 Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.

  3. 15m 18 Climb the open book (chockstone half way up).

FA: D. Bell & Merv Prior, 1951

1 11 25m
2 13 34m

The start is 5m downstream from the start of ILLEGITIMATE and is marked by a prominent pinnacle, whose top is a little lower than the top of the face. The first pitch takes the recess.

  1. 25m 11 Climb the shallow recess and then diagonally leftwards across the grey slab to the tree.

  2. 34m 13 Climb up the grey slab to just right of the white bulge at the foot of the steepest part of the red face. Ascend the face on good grips to a little ledge level with the pinnacle on the right. Climb diagonally left up to the top of the face.

FA: E.J. Ellis & D. Peters, 1969

1 15 25m
2 13 25m

Starts 7m right of a corner crack which provides an easy ascent to the right hand end of RETRIBUTION LEDGE.

  1. 25m 15 Start on a grey wall. Move up and left for 3m on an ascending traverse to a ledge. Move slightly right. Follow an obvious shallow depression up to a large ledge.

  2. 25m 13 Climb the yellow wall with a bulge in the middle behind the stance. Keep right of an obvious easy crack to the left which joins Retribution top pitch. Climb the left side of the bulge following a definite crack. Finish up easy rock.

FA: Clive Ward & John Gregory, 1976

1 11 16m
2 13 12m
3 17 18m
4 7 12m

Immediately downstream of an easy grade 7 crack formerly incorrectly known as SOLO is a root covered cave. Start 4-5m upstream of cave.

  1. 16m 11 Ascend the wall to a ledge and nut belay (or tree belay on right).

  2. 12m 13 Continue directly up the wall above the first pitch to a small overhang. Either move left under it or move left above it to gain a large ledge and block belay.

  3. 18m 17 Ascend the chimney or rib on its left which leads to the left hand side of the "ogive" (arched overhang). Traverse right under the overhang, step down and make an awkward move right to gain the front face of a detached pillar. Move up right to a chockstone belay in the chimney.

  4. 12m 7 Continue up the chimney to the top.

Notes:

  1. The top pitch runs very close to RETRIBUTION, keeping parallel with it and joins the same crack system to the top.

  2. A direct finish at grade 19 has been added by T. White and S. Morkel.

FA: Merv Prior

1 14 15m
2 13 20m
3 17 40m

Start 5m left of cave with hanging roots upstream from the start of RETRIBUTION.

  1. 15m 14 Climb a narrow crack.

  2. 20m 13 Climb narrow slanting crack from a ledge about 4m right from top of first pitch. From top of crack bear right up face. Exit from the top of the crack with blocks on other side to a large ledge.

  3. 40m 17 Climb the crack with a tree and roots in it on the corner of a buttress. Step right, around onto the face, climb up to overhangs, traverse right (small tree) and hand-traverse on a good ledge to a small platform (strenuous). From there climb to top.

FA: Jerry Linke, H. Vogl & Clive Ward, 1975

1 17 25m
2 14 20m

For a direct start, start 1m right of the tree at the base of easy grade 7 crack (formerly known as SOLO).

  1. 25m 17 Climb up into a small recess with a little overhang. Move left and up a crack to a tree. Continue above the tree to a short wall, move slightly right and up to a ledge. Move diagonally left onto a steep wall on good holds (small blocks which appear to be loose are in fact sound). Continue up to an undercut block. Traverse slightly left to a good ledge. Move up and over right to a large ledge with tree. Continue above the tree laying away on a slanting crack to the top of pitch 3 above using the same belay stance (chockstone in a slit).

FA: Clive Ward & John Gregory, 1976

1 11 12m
2 15 12m
3 11 12m
4 14 20m

The climb starts about 20m upstream from ONDERSTEBO, 2m left of a slender tree.

  1. 12m 11 Ascend a crack to a wide ledge screened by trees.

  2. 12m 15 Up approximately the centre of the grey slab above ledge. At about halfway up a short traverse of about two steps to the right thence straight up to a wide platform.

  3. 12m 11 Starting at the extreme right hand side of the platform climb up in corner of red rock to a point immediately underneath the very large overhang. Traverse right about 6m to a stance adjacent to a slit through which daylight is seen. A chockstone in this slit can be used as a belay.

  4. 20m 14 Traverse right round the nose and up to other side of slit where chockstone can again be used as belay. Then straight up to summit.

FA: S. Penny, T. Louw & R. Kinsley, 1950

1 13 15m
2 16 18m
3 10 34m

Start 2m downstream from the small tree at the start of RETRIBUTION.

  1. 15m 13 Climb a few metres of the start of RETRIBUTION. Move awkwardly left into the corner, then continue up until level with the large ledge on the right. Traverse onto the ledge. (Same ledge as found at top of first pitch of RETRIBUTION.)

  2. 18m 16 From the left side of the ledge, climb diagonally up left to the overhangs 8m away, via a delicate step up at 4m. Traverse boldly left on good grips for 5m before moving up. Ascend 6m to a large ledge on the right.

  3. 34m 10 Climb the face above trending leftwards to the recess which is followed to the top.

FA: Art McGarr, Paul Fatti & D. Peters, 1974

1 17 25m
2 19 30m
  1. 25m 17 as per Trivia

  2. 30m 15 Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between TRIVIA and ONDERSTEBO. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.

FA: George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1983

1 17 25m
2 19 15m
3 17 25m

Start about halfway between ONDERSTEBO and RETRIBUTION, just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.

  1. 25m 17 Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.

  2. 15m 19 Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.

  3. 25m 17 Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.

FA: L.P. Fatti, A. Dick & Art McGarr, 1975

1 15 25m
2 13 28m

Start on the left hand side of a recess 3m right of ONDERSTEBO.

  1. 25m 15 Climb a groove on the left hand side of the recess until it is possible to move right under the overhang and across a short wall. Follow the groove above to a stance and tree belay.

  2. 28m 13 Move diagonally right over easy rock to the foot of a steep red wall. Ascend a corner on the left until it is possible to step onto the wall. Either climb straight up the centre of the wall or move across to a rib on the right hand side and climb that.

FA: Merv Prior, 1968

1 7 22m
2 11 9m
3 13 10m

The climb starts immediately below a small cave at a point where many prominent thick roots descend over the rock face from a tree growing out of the rocks.

  1. 22m 7 Vertically up an obvious easy rock face to a large tree.

  2. 9m 11 Up from the tree for about 3m and then diagonally right to a ledge. Scramble 12m to right into a corner (tree belay).

  3. 10m 13 Straight up the corner in the rock wall to a small overhang. Move right (strenuous ONDERSTEBO move). Continue to climb the recess to top.

FA: T. Louw, W. Politzer & P. Ronald, 1948

Using the first grade 7 pitch of ONDERSTEBO, gain the large tree. Step right onto blocks.

  1. 20m 13 or 17 Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right (13) or break straight through (17). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.

FA: Ian Guest, Tim Hoole & L. Middleburg, 1985

To the right of MIDNIGHT CRAWL there is a cave at ground level, and right of this an obvious overhanging crack line.

  1. ?m 23 Start up the hanging tree roots for 6m to join the crack. Follow this through a roof. It is possible to step left above the roof onto a block (which forms the roof of the cave). Continue up the very overhanging crack to the ledge.

FA: Adrian Jardin & Steve Bradshaw, 1984

1 15 15m
2 11 15m
3 15 28m

Start in large cave bounded on the left by a smooth red face and on the right by an overhanging wall. There are some blocks trapped in the "roof". Ascend the upstream facing left hand retaining wall of the cave.

  1. 15m 15 Climb the slab, initially up a faint crack in its middle and finally in the corner on the right, the crux being the rounding of the final overhang to gain a belay ledge.

  2. 15m 11 After a delicate step over to the right, traverse 3m to the right to a big ledge. Scramble 12m up easy rock to tree belay.

  3. 28m 15 Climb up in corner until forced out right by overhang. Diagonally right to a block jutting out from face 40cm, where a piton safeguards the move onto the ledge (the last 5m to the block are strenuous). Easier climbing on face to top.

Variations:

3a. 28m 11 Step down and traverse right for 8m into corner, from where it is possible to climb up to the block mentioned above from the right (easier) and to top.

3b. 28m 16 Continue up crack through overhang to top.

FA: R.J. Stallebrass, A.D. van Doornum & D. Lubbe, 1963

1 14 20m
2 13 20m

This climb starts left of MIDNIGHT CRAWL.

  1. 20m 14 Climb the short face, pull through an overhang and continue up to a good ledge.

  2. 20m 13 Climb the break above to the top of the crag.

FA: Tanja Truter, Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1989

1 9 15m
2 9 20m
3 9 20m

Start as for SOLO in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.

  1. 15m 9 Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.

  2. 20m 9 Move right into corner then do a step over onto the front of the prominent arete.

  3. 20m 9 Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner (10).

1 7 16m
2 7 17m

The climb starts in the middle of a small face set at right-angles to the main kloof, immediately after the first narrow part of the kloof, after the junction with the side kloof on the true left side.

  1. 16m 7 Climb a crack about 0,5m wide, in which is a large root. The first 6m is grade 7, after which the crack eases off and the next 10m is 5/6 which leads onto a sloping grassy ledge with a big tree.

  2. 17m 7 Continue the same line, behind the tree and into the recess; at the second tree, more pleasant moves are made by climbing the face on the left of the recess, although the recess may also be climbed. 17m of grade 7 rock and scrambling to top.

FA: R. Forsyth

To the left of the polished slab of the first pitch of MIDNIGHT CRAWL one finds RELAPSE. The route commences about 3m to the left of RELAPSE on the corner of the block proceeding up a shallow undercut recess.

  1. 12m 17 From where the earth bank falls away to the left around the corner, traverse left to under the base of the recess. Using a small foothold stand up and pull into recess taking care not to dislodge a very loose block on the left page. A piton affords some protection from this point. Proceed easily up recess to large ledge. From here various easy routes lead to the top.

Note: There is no protection for the cruxes.

FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985

1 13 25m
2 11 30m

The climb starts on the right hand (i.e. upstream) side of the dark face just downstream of the polished slabs ascended by SOLO and RELAPSE. The start is 5m to the left of an overhang 6m up the dark face and 8m downstream of the polished slab.

  1. 25m 13 Climb the face using a vague recess until it peters out on narrow ledge going up to the right. Gain ledge, move left and continue directly up to the large ledge. There are two large trees at the back of the ledge from where the shattered chimney/corner used by SOLO begins.

  2. 30m 11 Start 5m to the left of the chimney/recess used by SOLO at a short crack. Climb up trending slightly right for 5m on steep rock with good grips. Move left and then up to gain a short corner and continue directly up to the top.

FA: D. Peters & M. Arsenjevic, 1983

1 8 17m
2 7 11m

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below SOLO and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

  1. 17m 9 Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

  2. 11m 7 Move to the right onto big block of rock and around the corner 3m and climb in recess to reach sloping grassy ledge 3m. Walk 5m to big tree for belay.

  3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses SOLO). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

  4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

Variation: 2a. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge. (M. Arsenjevic and D. Peters)

FA: R. Charlton & M. Urban, 1964

A few metres upstream from BITE is an obvious steep slab bordered on the right hand side by a steep wall.

  1. 30m 13 Ascend the slab, easily on the left hand side or with more difficulty on the right, to gain a small ledge below an undercut shallow open book. Climb open book to top.

FA: A.M. Maddison & R. Brand, 1984

This route ascends the obvious overhang a few metres to the right of BERG ADDER, immediately before GRASS.

  1. 30m 15 Ascend open book to gain the base of the overhang. Traverse out right to gain a small ledge. Finish as for GRASS.

FA: A.M. Maddison & R. Brand, 1984

On the left hand side of the kloof approximately 200m upstream from DOUBLE VISION is an obvious short buttress/ pinnacle. The climb takes the obvious line through the large flakes above. Cairn.

  1. 30m 17 Ascend gully on upstream side of pinnacle to gain the start of the flake. Ascend flake to top.

FA: A.M. Maddison & R. Brand, 1984

On scrambling down the gully just downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress one comes across a groove system at the downstream extremity of the buttress. A salient feature of the route is a small rock pinnacle just underneath a horizontal dinner plate protrusion. The route starts on top of a large block just up from the start of the crack-cairn on the top of the block.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the crack just below the erectile projectile. Move cautiously up, pass the little pinnacle, and climb the faint open book above to reach the top of the gendarme. Move across the little gully and climb the rough wall behind to reach the comfortable belay stance on the top.

Notes:

  1. The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out.

  2. An excellent route on rock which is not as easy as it first appears.

FA: Greg Devine & Tim Willmot, 1997

Just downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress is a scramble gully. A long sloping ledge starts just upstream of the base of this gully. Start at the upstream extremity of the sloping ledge below the crack system on the left hand side of a gendarme.

  1. 25m 16 Climb the steep crack making for the short curved crack high up out on the arete. Ascend this and then climb up the blocky arete to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Notes:

  1. The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out.

  2. Descend by moving slightly upstream and then scrambling down the gully.

FA: Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Willmot, 1998

The route climbs the pronounced chimney some 5m downstream of LOW EARTH ORBIT. Start from the same long sloping ledge marking the start of LOW EARTH ORBIT.

  1. 25m 14 Climb the chimney, delicately at first, to reach the tree above. Regain the chimney, with difficulty, and continue to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Notes:

  1. Protection is adequate though hard to find.

  2. When the tree disappears one suspects that the grade is going to jump a tad.

  3. Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.

FA: E.A. Lombard & Tim Willmot, 1998

The route takes the vertical crack up the downstream retaining wall of the descent gully downstream of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL buttress. Start just up from the start of the descent gully at the start of the crack - cairn.

  1. 35m 8 Climb the crack breaking through the roof above and take a stance on the comfortable ledge on top. Be careful on pulling the jug at the outer extremity of the roof as its integrity may be suspect.

Notes:

  1. Protection is excellent and the route is easier than it looks.

  2. Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Tim Willmot, Ken Thrash & Greg Devine, 1998

On reaching the bottom of the scramble gully downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress, one finds a slab reminiscent of that climb on the downstream side of the gully. The route ascends the crack on the right boundary of the slab - cairn.

  1. 40m 8 Climb the slab using the crack on the right for protection. Exit at the top of the slab and move slightly right up the groove to take a comfortable stance next to the tree at the top.

Notes:

  1. A good route for its grade.

  2. Descend by moving slightly upstream and scrambling down the gully by zigging upstream and zagging downstream. At the downstream extremity of each zig-zag down climb the groove until the scree slope is reached.

FA: Tim Willmot, Greg Devine, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Takes the crack up the centre of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL slab - cairn.

  1. 40m 8 Climb the centre of the slab using the crack for protection. Climb straight up to take a comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

  1. A good route for its grade.

  2. Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL

FA: T.P. Willmot, Darryl Margetts, Ken Thrash & Greg Devine, 1998

The route takes the bottomless laid back open book(s) immediately downstream of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL buttress - cairn.

  1. 40m 14 Climb up the base of the first open book (approximately 4m up). Gain this with some trepidation (crux). Climb up the laid back open book above to reach the bulge at the top. Move through the bulge on left to gain the second open book above. Climb this. Careful of the loose block above the tree. Move left and climb the clean crisp rock above until forced to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable stance on top via the short wall. Careful of another possibly loose block on top of the wall.

Notes:

  1. Easier than it looks. The holds are all there.

  2. Superlative clean climbing.

  3. Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.

FA: Greg Devine, Tim Willmot, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

About halfway between DANCING ON THE CEILING and LIBRARY FREAK is a pronounced roof and curving crack above a smooth slab. The route takes a line up the centre of the clean buttress just downstream of this roof/slab combination ( cairn ).

  1. 30m 10 Take an arbitrary line up to the top. Probably the most interesting part is pulling through on huge jugs to exit before taking a stance.

Note:

  1. Despite the easy grade a worthwhile pleasant clean climb for a beginner.

  2. Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.

FA: Tim Willmot, Bob Buckley & Kaffie Van Graan, 2002

The route takes the clean crisp deep open book capped by a roof approximately 3m up. The line is the first salient feature when moving upstream from the route BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS (approx. 20m). At the right extremity is a left leaning, tree root choked slab which moves up leftwards to meet the line, next to the roof (cairn).

  1. 28m 16 Move up the open book to just under the roof. Move rightwards, doing a foot swap in mid stride and lay back up to reach the base of the clean open book above. Climb the open book dodging to the right at the top to clear a clot of vegetation. Ascend an arbitrary line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.

Notes:

  1. Protection is good at the crux.

  2. A worthwhile, technically pleasing, mid range route.

FA: Tim Willmot & Greg Devine, 1997

Approximately 5m upstream of the BEETLE BONNET duet is a grotty looking broken groove. The route follows this until it becomes very steep, traverses right and then moves up a small broken corner to reach the top - cairn.

  1. 30m 17 Climb the groove to reach a small ledge above which the groove becomes very steep. Move up for about 2m and then traverse delicately right (crux) across the steep wall to reach the small broken open book. Climb this and tend diagonally leftwards to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

FA: T.P. Willmot, Ulrike Kiefer & Rolf Persson, 1996

Just upstream of the low buttress sticking out into the kloof (see UNDER PRESSURE) is a Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet shaped feature. The route takes the right hand crack line of the Y - cairn.

  1. 25m 13 Move up to the base of the crack. Climb this, fighting through the tree close to the start of the crack. Climb up steepening rock to exit right. Fight through some hanging creeper and then take a line straight up to a comfortable stance on top.

FA: T.P. Willmot, Ulrike Kiefer & Rolf Persson, 1996

The route takes the left crack line of the Y-shaped Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet feature mentioned in RIGHT BEETLE BONNET. Start at the same point as this route - cairn.

  1. 25m 13 Move up to the base of the left leaning crack. Climb up to the large left leaning detached block. Climb up behind this to reach the left leaning open book above. Move up to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable belay stance on top.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer, Rolf Persson & Tim Willmot, 1996

Approximately 40m upstream of DOUBLE VISION is a low (more or less two body lengths) buttress sticking out into the kloof. The route takes the broken looking faint open book just downstream of this buttress. The route makes for the white alcove (capped by a roof) high up and breaks right to clear.

  1. 32m 17 Start up the faint open book (cairn). After a few metres move slightly left and pull up by means of a long reach. Climb up to the white alcove beneath the roof (by moving slightly right). Step down to the right and gain the upstream open book awkwardly. Pull up to easier ground and climb the crack (clearing the ledge on the left) and steep wall above to clear the small roof. Take a stance on the top of the prominent gendarme.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim Willmot, 1995

About 5m downstream of UNDER PRESSURE is a left slanting rock. The route takes this crack - cairn.

  1. 26m 13 Climb up to the clearly defined left slanting crack. Move up the face to the left of the crack, at times awkwardly, until able to clear on the left. Climb up the broken rock to reach a comfortable belay stance above.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim Willmot, 1995

The route is about 80m upstream of DOUBLE VISION. A steep (slightly overhanging) face is partially obscured by a large and prominent stamvrug (forked near the base), which also marks the start of the climb.

  1. 20m 17 Climb the well defined recess behind the tree, following its natural curve. Break through the recess in the overhang to belay at a stamvrug bush.

FA: George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1983

This is a steep short crack about 50m upstream of LIFEBUOY but on the opposite side of the kloof. It is about 20m upstream from DOUBLE VISION and just before a very large tree.

  1. 15m 20 Climb the crack in the red rock breaking out right at the top to a tree belay. Scramble off on right.

FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985

The climb starts about 3m downstream from BEFORE BREAKFAST following a crack just right of the roots.

  1. 17m 19 Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.

Note: The piton was found in place.

FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985

Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the left hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.

  1. 38m 18 Climb right hand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.

FA: A.M. Maddison & R Brand, 1984

When descending from the lower crags on the right hand side of the kloof, a steep slab on the left hand side is encountered.

  1. 10m 13 Climb up the middle of the slab.

FA: D. Margetts, 1994

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