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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 Apex
1 13 15m
2 15 15m
3 20 22m

This climb, which has a common start with 'Crescendo' follows an exposed line to the right of the high cave of 'Hospital Hill'.

  1. 15m 13 Climb directly up to a large tree 5m above the ground and then continue diagonally rightwards via a small overhang to a small ledge. Stance is common with 'Crescendo'.

  2. 15m 15 Climb the recess above the stance for 5m and then traverse left for 3m along an exposed ledge. A long pull up leads on to another ledge and then continue straight up the exposed face to a very small stance with peg and nut runner belays about 3m below the overhangs and 5m right of the lip of the cave.

  3. 22m 20 Step down 1,5m from stance and traverse left for 3m across the face to below a 2m recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to the overhang and make an exposed traverse left and then up to surmount the overhang. Continue up steep rock to a small ledge at the base of the recess. Traverse left for 1,5m and then climb the slightly overhanging face, initially on good holds, but getting poorer higher up to an off-balance resting place where a small nut runner can be placed for protection. Traverse left across the exposed face just above the roof of the cave and continue on off-balance traverse to the grey face opposite, where the angle eases. Climb easily to the top.

FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1972

FFA: Kevin Smith & M. Mears, 1981

Trad 52m, 3
20 Paranoia
1 17 25m
2 20 30m

Start 5m upstream of 'Casualty Ward' i.e. at the upstream entrance to the cave which is several meters above the ground.

  1. 25m 17 Climb up to a recess and continue up to a roof 20m up. Traverse right around the arete to gain a ledge just above a small tree on the Apex face.

  2. 30m 20 Climb up diagonally right past a large loose block to a ledge then back diagonally left to the top of a block. From there move strenuously up to big jugs and finish diagonally right on smaller holds. Exit just right of aloes.

Note: Steep sustained face climbing mostly on good jugs.

FA: George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1985

Trad 55m, 2
20 Lobotomy
1 15 25m
2 20 25m

The climb starts 2m to the left of the "obvious crack" in 'Deception' first pitch, crosses the line of 'Hospital Hill' and finishes up the steep face to the right of 'Hospital Hill' top grade 20 pitch.

  1. 25m 15 Climb to top of open book. Move right and step onto the face on the right. Move around the corner and climb diagonally right for 6m to stance at a peg 2m below the steep recess of 'Hospital Hill' top 20 pitch.

  2. 25m 20 Traverse 2m right to beneath a short open book capped by an overhang. On the undercut right hand wall of this open book is an obvious horizontal crack. Reach up to the rail and climb up and to the right until you can stand out on the tip of the nose formed by the right wall of the open book (crux). Climb diagonally left for 2m then continue up steep face to the top bearing slightly right (sustained).

FA: J. van Eeden & S.J. Mallory, 1982

Trad 50m
20 Before Breakfast

This is a steep short crack about 50m upstream of 'Lifebuoy' but on the opposite side of the kloof. It is about 20m upstream from 'Double Vision' and just before a very large tree.

  1. [20] 15m Climb the crack in the red rock breaking out right at the top to a tree belay. Scramble off on right.

FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985

Trad 15m

Showing all 4 routes.

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