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Wigwam

  • Grade context: SA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 8

Seasonality

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Description

Lovely short kloof in white quartz, fairly cool and mostly in shade. The climbing is mostly overhanging. The running water is very clean, available mostly in the lower section. The full kloof can be walked up with only 2 sections of more involved 1-move-scrambling. An old wooden stepladder makes it feasible without gear at the bottom one.

Access issues inherited from Narrow Kloof & Wigwam

Go to Wigwam Hotel. Sign in and tell the guard you are there to climb they will let you park in front of the gate. This is a private resort and the owner has kindly granted permission. The previous hotel / club house has closed down and we weren't ask to pay for the 25R day pass anymore (2018-11-25). Please behave when in the property, horseplay and noise will be really bad for the way the owners view the climbers. Be polite, it all helps to secure long term access.

Approach

To Wigwam go past the church on the left, you will find a path shortly following water pipe behind it. It is an easy short walk, nearly flat.

Ethic inherited from Narrow Kloof & Wigwam

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Please ensure that whatever you carry into the kloof, you carry out. The kloofs are narrow and access is fairly limited, make sure you go to the bathroom before entering. Please DO NOT urinate or deficate in the kloof as the water is currently pure enough to drink, lets keep it that way. If you have to go make sure you exit the kloof before you get down to business. Please bury your deposits to avoid nasty surprises. If you see litter (and there often is in the kloof, due to baboons raiding the hotel bins) make an effort to pick it up on your way out and put it in a dustbin.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

First route at Wigwam. Don't dork the 2nd clip.

FA: Mark Millar

May require additional bolt.

A crimpy number that starts from the boulder with the first 2 bolts pre-clipped. The intention was to start the route from the ground, but a blank section has put that on hold, for now. There has in the past been a ball of wasps about 3m below the chains, so take care.

FA: Greg Bormann

Set: Hector Pringle

FA: Marc Efune

Starts in the pit. Bouldery start leads to a half-height hard move which requires accuracy of movement and body tension to stick, or some sneaky beta... Compulsary showboat one-arm-hang clip of the 5th draw when sending for full pleasure.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

A tough crimpy line snatched away from Flex by Curly Steve. Said to be easier for lanky people.

FA: Marc Efune, 2008

Set: Marc Efune

FA: Steve Bretherick, 2008

The first bolts above the boulder.

Set: Marc Efune

Starts up the first bolt of Tomahawk then breaks left.

Set: Andrew Pedley & Marc Efume

The kloof's classic line. A pumper all the way to the chains.

FA: Marc Efune

Starts on 'Tomahawk' and veers right.

FA: Ivan van de Tang

Set: Wesley Black

Starts a few metres downstream of Tomahawk, off a large triangular rock. An intense start to a rest then a headwall with just enough holds on it. This sequence is a gift from god, totally brilliant.

Set: Mark Millar

FA: Andrew Pedley & Marc Efune

Slopy roofy start with large move out left, right of the large fig tree.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

Bolted by Dylan Vogt and Chris Cosser. This line takes the beautiful blank rock just downstream of 'Squawplay' via some absolutely insane moves on monos. By Chris's own account he said it could be 9a.

Set: D. Vogt & C. Cosser

Closed project that heads up about 5m upstream from WP

Set: Mark Millar, 2008

A thuggish start from the boulder leads to some easier climbing above.

FA: Mark Millar, 2008

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Tue 25 Jul
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