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West Butress

  • Grade context: SA

Flora and Fauna: Vulture Colony & Black Eagles

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area.

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Created 4 years ago
2
SA

Access issues inherited from Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort

The area is on private property; liaise with the MCSA regarding access.

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area. However, as this is a South facing crag, it gets very cold in winter which means it’s best to climb there in the summer anyway.

Ethic inherited from Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. 9 climbs (including the longest Magaliesberg climb, Upthrust) cannot be climbed at all due to vultures nesting on the cliffs.

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Routes

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Grade Route
1 13 30m
2 10 12m

Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.

  1. 30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.

  2. 12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.

Note: A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.

FA: R. Fox, Miss C. Chester & C. Baker, 1978

1 18 30m
2 13 30m
3 8 40m

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

  1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

  2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

  3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1988

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

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Tue 25 Apr
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