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Canasta Buttress

  • Grade context: SA
8

Access issues inherited from Oorlogs Kloof

Access is sensitive at the moment! Don't climb here without permission from the landowner.

According to climb.za an agreement has been reached with the landowner in principle. Access is currently in a trial period while admin and logistics are being finalised.

Ethic inherited from Montagu

To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/

Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious west facing crack that one can see from below. The route is not on the Canasta Wall itself.

The curving line on the left side of the wall.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1991

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012

Closed

Set: Steve Bradshaw, 2013

The obvious undercling/layback flake in the center of the crag. This route was originally climbed on preplaced wires.

FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989

Maint: Guy Holwill, 1991

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012

Start up the ramp (terrifying) then break out right at the first bolt, continue up the wall past a second bolt to the chains.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1991

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012

Climb the obvious finger crack on the right hand side of the wall.

FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1989

Maint: Clinton Martinengo, 2012

The short crack right of Canasta. Bolted?

FA: Guy Holwill, 1990

The short crack right of Five Card Trick. Bolted?

FA: Andy Davies, 1990

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