Access: COVID-19 lockdown Alert level 3

Adjusted Level 3 regulations as gazetted in Gazette 44044 of 29 December 2020, as amended by Gazette 44051 of 29 December 2020, Gazette 44066 of 11 January 2021 and Gazette 44130 of 1 February 2021.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago



Access issues inherited from Monteseel

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Ethic inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.


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Grade Route

FA: Ian Manson & Craig Attwell, 1982

FA: Rich Smithers & Adolf Flockemann, 1976

1 11
2 18

FA: Roger Fuggle & Tony Dick, 1970

FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1973

1 11
2 19

FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1973

1 13
2 11
3 14
  1. Fun first pitch straight up to under the huge roof. Nice jugs, good gear and exposure... Just a fun climb. The finish of the first pitch is located under the roof in a right angle corner with good gear and a solid ledge.

  2. The second pitch is a traverse out right with HUGE exposure. This is a rather long pitch which bends around a corner making communication difficult. There is relatively good gear but what makes the pitch hard is the exposure. If the wind is strong you might battle with balance. This pitch can be done in two if you stop right before climber and belayer loose sight of each other in a small cave. This is not recommended but is always an option. The second pitch is supposed to end on a rather big ledge with a small tree growing out of it. There is plenty of space to sit and rest before finishing the climb. There is a great view from here.

  3. The last pitch heads straight up to the top and can also be done in two pitches however that shouldn't be needed to be done. You should come out under some trees but don't stress too much if you are slightly off route.

It is recommended that you take someone who has climbed this before as it is extremely difficult to locate both the decent anchors as well as the start of the climb.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth & Colin Shuttleworth, 1970

FA: Charl Brummer, 1979

1 15
2 A2
3 13

FA: Mike Roberts, Roy Gooden & Rodney Owen, 1976

FA: Brian Shuttleworth, Carless Freer & Tony Conning, 1978

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1992

FA: Colin Shuttleworth & Bobby Dickman, 1970

FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Grant Cockburn, 1988

FA: Mick Hafner & Alan Manson, 1983

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1991


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