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Eagle's Head Mountain Guide

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 20

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Francois Pieterse Alan Watson @willem Sven Möllgaard Brad Pateman Ruan Viljoen Raymond Gates

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Eagle's Head Mountain 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.153096, 29.158033

access issues

  • Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.
  • No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.
  • If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.
inherited from Mt Everest Nature Reserve

ethic

  • Do not drop any litter, however small, including cigarette butts, finger tape and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.
  • If you must take a crap at the crag, go at least 30 metres down-hill and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.
  • If you take a pee, do not do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.
  • Small tick dots are fine but tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.
  • NEVER use wire brushes!! They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.
  • Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.
  • ‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a closed project. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the route setter.
  • Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.
inherited from Mt Everest Nature Reserve

1.1. The Nursery 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.159727, 29.165494

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nappy Rash 20 Sport 2, 10
2 Child's Play 19 Sport 10
3 Jungle Jimmy 21 Sport 11

1.2. Eagle Crag 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -28.157766, 29.163322

description

Large wall left of the Eagle's Head

approach

Follow the road to the Eagle's Head chalet and park about 100m before the chalet. Take care not to block in or disturb the occupants. Walk to the chalet resident's parking and just before the wooden bridge/deck go left into the bushes and follow a trail to the Eagle's Head. Leave the trail below the cliff and cut through the grass up to the base.

descent notes

At the top you can walk towards the right and down the gully between the Eagle's Head and Eagle Crag. Alternatively you can abseil down Take It Easy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Take It Easy
  1. 40m (18) 13D. This pitch ends on a large ledge below the overhanging Red Wall. One-bolt belay.

  2. 25m (20) 15D. Climb back and clip the last bolt of the previous pitch and continue up.

  3. 25m (11) 6D. This pitch takes you to the top.

Abseil back down the route. From the anchors at the top of pitch 2, abseil over the edge and onto the ledge below the Red Wall. The final abseil bolts are located on the clean rock face adjacent to the extreme right-hand side of the ledge. After the final abseil scramble down an easy gully to reach the base of the crag. Tie a knot in the end of your rope - this pitch is almost 35m long.

FA: Grant Murry & Mike Cartwright, 1994

20 Sport 90m, 3, 15
2 Riding Fences

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

20 Sport 12
3 Mass Extinction

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

Set by Grant Murray, 1994

FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg, 28 Mar 2019

33/34 Sport 30m
4 Rat's Red Wall Project SportProject
5 A Steyn On Our Reputation 17 Trad 110m
6 A Steynless Route 18 Trad 110m
7 Hennie Boekwurm 18 Trad 85m
8 For Your Eyes Only

It is possible to avoid the final pitch by walking off to the left. Decent by hiking around the back of the mountain to the right and then down the gully between Eagle Crag and Eagle's Head.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2017

18 Sport 170m, 5, 20
9 Karibuni Rafiki
  1. 25m (19) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Grandemy

19 SportProject 25m, 2
10 Riders of the Storm

Both pitches can be combined (20 draws)

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud

23 Sport 50m, 2, 12
11 Big Wide Open

FA: Andrew Pedley

20 Sport 30m, 12
12 Dark Desert Highway 27 Sport
13 From Father to Son
  1. 28m (27) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Gaboriaud

27 SportProject 28m, 2
14 Running For the Door Project 28 SportProject 2

1.3. Comfort Zone 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.157148, 29.162240

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Melon

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

24 Sport 10
2 Lazy Boy

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

24 Sport 10
3 Old Habits

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

24 Sport 10
4 Draw From the Hip

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

25 Sport 10
5 Slamdunk

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

24 Sport 10
6 Ally Oop!

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

25 Sport 10

1.4. Eagle's Head 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.155875, 29.161525

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Swiss Cheese

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

28 Sport 10
2 Bird Brain

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

25 Sport 11
3 Aero

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

24 Sport 10
4 ToughTurkey

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

20 Sport 2, 10
5 Pumping Peacock

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

18 Sport 7
6 Easy Rider

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

18 Sport 52m, 12
7 Power Pigeon

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21 Sport 15
8 Alcatraz

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

23 Sport 55m, 2, 12

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
17 A Steyn On Our Reputation Trad 110m 1.2. Eagle Crag
18 A Steynless Route Trad 110m 1.2. Eagle Crag
For Your Eyes Only Sport 170m, 5, 20 1.2. Eagle Crag
Hennie Boekwurm Trad 85m 1.2. Eagle Crag
Easy Rider Sport 52m, 12 1.4. Eagle's Head
Pumping Peacock Sport 7 1.4. Eagle's Head
19 Child's Play Sport 10 1.1. The Nursery
Karibuni Rafiki SportProject 25m, 2 1.2. Eagle Crag
20 Nappy Rash Sport 2, 10 1.1. The Nursery
Big Wide Open Sport 30m, 12 1.2. Eagle Crag
Riding Fences Sport 12 1.2. Eagle Crag
Take It Easy Sport 90m, 3, 15 1.2. Eagle Crag
ToughTurkey Sport 2, 10 1.4. Eagle's Head
21 Jungle Jimmy Sport 11 1.1. The Nursery
Power Pigeon Sport 15 1.4. Eagle's Head
23 Riders of the Storm Sport 50m, 2, 12 1.2. Eagle Crag
Alcatraz Sport 55m, 2, 12 1.4. Eagle's Head
24 Lazy Boy Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Melon Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Old Habits Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Slamdunk Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Aero Sport 10 1.4. Eagle's Head
25 Ally Oop! Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Draw From the Hip Sport 10 1.3. Comfort Zone
Bird Brain Sport 11 1.4. Eagle's Head
27 Dark Desert Highway Sport 1.2. Eagle Crag
From Father to Son SportProject 28m, 2 1.2. Eagle Crag
28 Running For the Door Project SportProject 2 1.2. Eagle Crag
Swiss Cheese Sport 10 1.4. Eagle's Head
33/34 Mass Extinction Sport 30m 1.2. Eagle Crag
? Rat's Red Wall Project SportProject 1.2. Eagle Crag
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