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Routes in Eagle's Head Mountain

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Nursery
20 Nappy Rash
1 18
2 20
Sport 2, 10
19 Child's Play
Sport 10
21 Jungle Jimmy
Sport 11
Eagle Crag
20 Take It Easy
1 18 40m
2 20 25m
3 11 25m
  1. 40m (18) 13D. This pitch ends on a large ledge below the overhanging Red Wall. One-bolt belay.

  2. 25m (20) 15D. Climb back and clip the last bolt of the previous pitch and continue up.

  3. 25m (11) 6D. This pitch takes you to the top.

Abseil back down the route. From the anchors at the top of pitch 2, abseil over the edge and onto the ledge below the Red Wall. The final abseil bolts are located on the clean rock face adjacent to the extreme right-hand side of the ledge. After the final abseil scramble down an easy gully to reach the base of the crag. Tie a knot in the end of your rope - this pitch is almost 35m long.

FA: Grant Murry & Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 90m, 3, 15
20 Riding Fences

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 12
33/34 Mass Extinction

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

Set by Grant Murray, 1994

FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg, 28 Mar 2019

Sport 30m
Rat's Red Wall Project
SportProject
17 A Steyn On Our Reputation
Trad 110m
18 A Steynless Route
Trad 110m
18 Hennie Boekwurm
Trad 85m
18 For Your Eyes Only
1 18 30m
2 17 20m
3 17 35m
4 15 35m
5 18 45m

It is possible to avoid the final pitch by walking off to the left. Decent by hiking around the back of the mountain to the right and then down the gully between Eagle Crag and Eagle's Head.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2017

Sport 170m, 5, 20
19 Karibuni Rafiki
  1. 25m (19) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Grandemy

SportProject 25m, 2
23 Riders of the Storm
1 18 25m
2 23 25m

Both pitches can be combined (20 draws)

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud

Sport 50m, 2, 12
20 Big Wide Open

FA: Andrew Pedley

Sport 30m, 12
27 Dark Desert Highway
Sport
27 From Father to Son
  1. 28m (27) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Gaboriaud

SportProject 28m, 2
28 Running For the Door Project
SportProject 2
Comfort Zone
24 Melon

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 10
24 Lazy Boy

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 10
24 Old Habits

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 10
25 Draw From the Hip

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 10
24 Slamdunk

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 10
25 Ally Oop!

FA: Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 10
Eagle's Head
28 Swiss Cheese

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 10
25 Bird Brain

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 11
24 Aero

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1994

Sport 10
20 ToughTurkey
1 20
2 10

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 2, 10
18 Pumping Peacock

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

Sport 7
18 Easy Rider

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

Sport 52m, 12
21 Power Pigeon

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Sport 15
23 Alcatraz
1 23 30m
2 22 25m

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

Sport 55m, 2, 12

Showing all 31 routes.

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