Nodes in South Africa

South Africa is simply a top world climbing destination.

From already world-renown Bouldering area Rocklands or Sport Mecca 'Waterval Boven', to epic trad Big Walling at Blouberg or Yellowwood Amphitheatre, passing through alpine adventures in the Drakensberg most styles are covered one way or the other, except maybe ice-climbing...

but that is only because of the generous climate, which ensures year-round outdoor climbing in most crags !

Add to that the comfort of huge areas close enough from town for a after-work pitch from Capetown... Table Mountain, or the huge potential for any adventurer to bush whack and find new unexplored cliffs hidden in remote areas... you will definitely find your little corner of paradise.

Finally the MCSA is the national association associated to UIAA that caters for mountaineering in general, and climbing in particular. They are fundamental to negociate and maintain access to lots of crags, since few are on public land in the country. Join them https://mcsa.org.za/.

The Mountain Club of South Africa partially owns the land at Kransberg. Access is limited to members and their guests.

Kransberg is a remote area with trad climbing (only). The routes are between 3 and 6 pitches long and provide excellent exposure in a natural setting. A large vulture colony is found immediately west of the climbing area.

Kransberg offers a number of good quality multipitch climbs of moderate to easy grades. Combined with an hour walk in and an easy, obvious descent, this makes for a friendly place to practise your multipitch skills before heading off to bigger, harder walls like Blouberg. That said, the climbs will keep you honest. On most climbs, expect to have to climb a few meters between gear placements, especially on the faces where you will encounter a few more blank rails than you may like. The popular routes are well enough protected though, so do not worry too much.

The MCSA have released a route guide for the area that is available on their website.

Area closed to climbing for protection of the Cape Vultures colony.

This is the main climbing area near the MCSA campsite.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

This gully provides a pleasant descent route. Two abseils of 20m and 14m from big yellowwood trees are required during the descent.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.

1. Scramble up to the ledge where Snowflake starts. Easy if you choose the right line but rope up if in doubt. Start by scrambling up diagonally left to below some roofs. Traverse right on a ledge and another difficult move gets you to easier ground.

2. 23m (15) Start behind the tree on the left. There is a small cave just left of it. Climb up just right of the recess behind the tree to a small roof and a big rail. Traverse right for 5m and then diagonally left up to a grassy ledge.

3. 28m (13) From the right hand side of the ledge there is a crack leading up, climb this for 6m past one hard move with a good small cam. Traverse right on a good ledge for 5m. Further up the face there is a right facing open book. Climb towards this (this part is easy but pretty run-out). Climb the open book to a good ledge behind a block.

4. 26m (12) Traverse left into the left crack and climb it to a small stance on a block on the right-hand side of the crack at a point where the crack becomes vegetated and very overhanging.

5. 32m (13) Traverse right (exposed) for 9m until just before the right crack and then up to a ledge.

6. 29m (11) Climb up and out at the short chimney at the top. Scramble to top.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

freed at grade 21

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. This route climbs the left crack.

Clean and sustained climbing with possibly one grade 15 move. The crux is in the 2nd half of the route.

The routes goes up a conical buttress. Starts near a big yellowwood tree midway between Groothoek Chimney and Black Eagle Crag below a big roof 15/20m up.

1. 30m (15) Climb diagonally right staying well Bellow the huge roof to a good ledge around the right roof corner. This is the outer edge of the ramp used by the first pitch of black eagle crag. Second half is grassy.

2. 20m (12) Follow right hand side of the corner leftward until one can step across left (grass) to a wide ledge with a big block on its middle that crosses the conical buttress.

3. 35m (18) From the left end of the ledge, climb onto blocks around the corner, then traverse right back above the ledge towards the roofs. Then diagonally left around the roofs. Climb the grey face and end up left to a thorntree & small yellowwood tree in Groothoek chimney

4. 25m (19) Climb the steep corner, first usable gear a cam about 5m up. Continue on the left wall and overhanging crack, then traverse left to a scooped out ledge with good cam placements gear below the roof.

5. 25m (15) Traverse minimaly right, then climb the face diagonally left until the base of a corner. Take the corner and head right, crossing a few birdshit covered blocks (not vultures though) until a belay ledge at the base of an obvious chimney. Opposite the crack à big yellow wood tree is a belay for ? probably black eagle crag?.

6. 25m (18) Climb the left slanting overhanging chimney above with much grunting. Good placement are available, bringing a few large cams up is worthwhile. Traverse left to bypass the roof and finish left to a good ledge.

7. 45m (13) Traverse right to the pillar. Climb the pillar then traverse back to the chimney. Finish easily to the top. Long and fun. If Pitch 6 made you swear to never climb again, this one will make you return to your senses.

Note: Excellent climbing made less serious by the proximity of Groothoek Chimney.

Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. The left crack is climbed by 'Groothoek Chimney'. 'Black Eagle Crag' follows a line up the right crack and then on the face between the cracks.

The start is in a vegetated crack leading to some large overhangs in the centre of the Chevron, 15m right of 'Groothoek Chimney'.

1. (27m 12) Climb the crack to a point 3m below the overhangs.

2. (21m 10) Traverse right on obvious line to corner for 15m. Climb blocks on corner to a large ledge on the right. Belay on big tree.

3. (45m 16) Climb the steep ramp on the left side of the large ledge. At the top of the ramp traverse slightly left to a narrow overhanging face. Climb the face and the chimney above. When the chimney closes move out onto the left face (awkward) and climb up to comfortable ledge with a tree in the chimney on the right of the face.

4. (40m 14) Traverse left on the ledge, move down to pass a block. After the block continue diagonally up left to a detached block. Stand on the block and do a pull-up to break through the small overhang. Continue up to a series of comfortable ledges.

5. (27m 16) Climb diagonally right to an orange face.

6. (24m 13) Climb diagonally left and traverse on a hand-rail under the roof. Move into 'Groothoek Chimney' and climb this to the top.

Variations:

(Pitch 1, 17): Right of crack of pitch 1 there is another crack with overhanging roof. Climb this moving out left at top.

(Pitch 1, 17): Start behind tree between the two cracks. Climb the face.

(Pitch 6, 20): There is a break in the middle of the overhang right at the tip of the Eiffel Tower.

On the corner of Groothoek gully is a buttress with a tree on top. It is possible to scramble up it from the left. Just left of the buttress is a wide water streak right of a small (30cm) right facing corner. The original climb starts 30m directly above the right facing corner on a large ledge which can be accessed by traversing left from the above mentioned buttress. There is supposed to be a "very good direct start (17)" to reach this point.

1. 30m (21) Scramble up on the right of the water streak to a point about halfway up the water streak where you can traverse over it on a wide ledge.Climb the small right facing corner and then the face above it to a wide ledge. It also looks possible to climb the right facing corner from the bottom starting in a small cubbyhole at ground level if it is dry.

2. 30m (17) The belay ledge is 5m above the wide belay ledge for P2 of Black Eagle Crag. From the left of the ledge, traverse 2m left and then 3m up then continue diagonally up right for about 6m to a break leading diagonally up left for about 15m to an awkward step. Continue up to a large ledge. Sustained grade 15 climbing.

3. 8m (10) Traverse left towards pile of blocks at a point just before the ledge goes around the corner. Start by downclimbing about 1m and traverse left on excellent footholds and tiny handholds to avoid a short section of loose rocks. Belay just before the pile of blocks. It may be possible to combine this pitch with the previous one if rope drag is not too bad.

4. 30m (13) Continue up going diagonally right. Climb over a short ridge with big steps going up and right. Belay on ledge.

5. 30m (15) Continue up tending left to a point under the left hand extreme of the large overhangs. Swing left around the corner using good holds on a high ledge. Continue up in corner to the top.

Note: Pitches 4 and 5 are a variation of the original line that provides better climbing. The original line climbed much further towards the right to a grass and aloe ramp and then up various corners to a ledge leading to the right, finishing 4m left of Chukamisa.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.

1. (6) Scramble up block. On top of the block find a corner with an overhang 5m up.

2. (11) Climb up the corner on the left face below the overhang. Traverse left around corner and up on good holds into a chimney above. About 5m into the chimney is a good block-belay.

3. (11) Continue up chimney to a large ledge. Crux has good holds and is well protected with a #3 C4 SLCD.

4. (9) Move around the corner on the extreme right hand side of the large ledge, from this point climbing continues up on good holds with a few steep moves in-between.

5. (8) Continue up until climbing becomes a scramble.

Variations:

(Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter)

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

This is the usual decent route involving some scrambling.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.

1. 45m (13) From the top of the buttress, follow a faint crack that starts just left of the buttress to a small overhang (6x1m). Pass the overhangs on the right and continue up to a ledge belew a short 2m wide roof with a small tree on the left. (There is an optional belay ledge about halfway up this pitch).

2. 10m (12) From the right of the ledge continue up corner. To a small square ledge below a piton.

3. 40m (15) Climb the corner until a point before it becomes overhanging. Traverse right on good ledges to the nose and then diagonally left to top.

Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Climb the thin seam, splitting the buttress, to the right of Angelica’s deep crack. This is easily seen from where the path enters the kloof at the base of Sunshine Crack. Walk around Angelica’s pillar and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the crack, about 25m right of Angelica’s pillar.

1. [19] 15m Climb the crack for 10m. Step left and follow the crack to a small ledge above an overlap.

2. [15] 30m Follow the crack tending slightly left to the large halfway ledge.

3. [15] 30m From the top of a small boulder, step into a shallow open book, then make a brave move to good footholds on the right. Continue up diagonally left to the big block on a ledge. Walk past the block, about 3m, before climbing more or less straight up for another 15m.

4. [12] 30m Make a beeline for the top, avoiding the grass as much as possible and finish spectacularly up some large blocks.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

The route is 70m to the right of 'Chanel Crack' in a corner formed by a step in the face. The vegetation has discouraged subsequent parties.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

5km east of the Chevron. Some of the hardest and best climbs are found here.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

Access from Helberg's farm. Please contact the MCSA for access details.

New developed sport climbing venue in the Waterberg

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

open project through the roof, estimation 23 to confirm

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Starts just left of Intrusion, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

This climb starts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Uphill from the parking following a "faint path". Steeper the more you go left toward the gully and easier climbs. Flatter toward the more difficult area right.

Starts at the foot of the first scramble up the gulley. Pitches 1+2 and 4+5 can be combined.

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

This route starts 25m to the left of Where Eagles Dare and joins that route at the last pitch.

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête. Pitches 1+2 and 5+6 can be combined.

Start 10m to the right of Where Eagles Dare at a block. Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND. Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND.

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

Starts approximately 50m right of BDND.

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it. Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoid the climb in winter months.

Climb up straight from Raptors, 2 pitches further

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

5 min if parked along or dropped on the dirt road towards the main face. Around 20min to parking itself.

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree. Pitch 1 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of Rhamses Ramrod.

Climb up the crack system just to the right of Tutankhamuns Touche starting up the pillar on the left.

Climb up the pillar with brown water marks. 1st pitch up the face on small crimps. 2nd pitch up the slab.