Picnic Sector




Access issues inherited from Mohlapitse Valley

Access to the Mohlapitse Valley crags is under negotiation - at the request of the owners (the Serala Community), please contact Vincent Egan at 082 412 7247 or Bronwyn Egan at 081 4020 417 to arrange access.

Ethic inherited from Ga-Kgopa Crag

Sport and traditional climbing.


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Grade Route

Route follows the obvious, stepped overlap in the centre of the face on the left of the Picnic Sector. Follow the bolts, trending to the left to a set of hangers. Original top anchors replaced in 2021, with rings to allow rapping.

Set: Vince Egan, 6 Jun 2021

FA: Vince Egan, 6 Jun 2021

Maint: Vince Egan & Luca Brice, 23 Oct 2021

This route starts on Squeaky Staircase, moving right after clipping the third bolt and then comp[leting the rest of Hidey-Holds.

FA: Aine Egan, 22 Aug 2021

Follow the arete to the right of Squeaky Staircase to two glue-in staples. Be careful not to Z-clip when clipping the second bolt.

Set: Vince Egan, 6 Jun 2021

FA: Bron Egan, 6 Jun 2021

FA: Aine Egan, 20 Sep 2020

Set: Vince Egan, 20 Sep 2020

Climb the short line of bolts to the left of Incy Wincy Spider, keeping to the left wall of the latter's open book until the line pushes you into a large crack on the right.

FA: Vince Egan, 29 Jul

Ascend the obvious, short open book to the right of the picnic site as you look at the crag. The route ends at a pair of glued in rings. Plenty of options for bomber trad placements along the way.

FA: Errol Nienaber & Jan Fouche

Directly right of INCY WINCY SPIDER, start up the rightward tending break to gain a small ledge. Rail hard right crossing WATERSPOUT to the arête and then straight up

FA: Josh Butcher, 13 Jun 2021

FA: 13 Jun 2021

This line follows the prominent dark continuous crack halfway between Incy Wincy Spider and the arete. Step off the blocks into the crack that runs up the left hand side of a bright patch of orange lichen. Pass a rail and move slightly left at the level of the grey split bulge to clip the chains above.

FA: Josh Butcher

FA: 6 Jun 2021

Follow the arête to the right of the face containing Waterspout. The route starts steeply, but eases off considerably after the second bolt.

FA: Luca Brice, 23 Oct 2021

Set: Vince Egan, 23 Oct 2021

Immediately to the right of Spin-Arete, follow the line of bolts up the centre of the small face. Shares the fourth bolt with Damhan-Allaidh and ends at the top anchors of Spin-Arete.

FA: Tadhg Egan, 3 Jul

Climb the arete immediately to the right of Gossamer, following the line of bolts. Shares the fourth bolt with Gossamer and ends at Spin-Arete's chains.

FA: Vince Egan, 3 Jul

Climb the obvious crack about 2m to the left of Craic, trending left at the top to the top-anchors of Spin-Aréte.

FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 31 Oct 2021

The climb starts on the opposite side of the buttress from Waterspout. Walk around the buttress, in the direction of the river, and the climb is in the back of an open book. Climb the obvious crack in the bushy corner, ending in a notch on top of the buttress. Waterspout's top anchors can be used for a belay, but are not well placed to be used for top-roping.

FA: Vince Egan & Bron Egan, 22 Aug 2021

Start to the right of Craic, climbing the easy bulgy face into a short open book. Exit left onto a ramp and scramble up to the tree above Incy Wincy Spider.

FA: Vince Egan, Tadhg Egan & Bronwyn Egan, 7 Nov 2021


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