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Access issues inherited from Mohlapitse Valley

Access to the Mohlapitse Valley crags is under negotiation - at the request of the owners (the Serala Community), please contact Vincent Egan at 082 412 7247 or Bronwyn Egan at 081 4020 417 to arrange access.

Approach

From the parking, head towards the taller part of the Ma-Kgopa crag aiming for an amphitheater with a wooded base. Overhung rock forms an open cave where boulders and bones denote the central part of the sector.

Ethic inherited from Ga-Kgopa Crag

Sport and traditional climbing.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start right of the water berry tree on the easy steps up and move left to find the first clip on a bulging corner. The next few bolts are fairly steep and technical climbing, followed by a generous rest on a podium after the 5th bolt. Step further left around the slabby corner to climb the arête moving through glossy rock, a series of balancey step ups to a working rest next to a small tree. Now move right through the exposed crux of the route, follow the bolts to the chains.

FA: Josh Butcher, 18 Jun 2022

FA: 18 Jun 2022

To the Right of Percy's Boulders on the right shoulder of the cave a deep cleft offers a way up a blocky crack, mantle up to the ledge and move up the corner using foot holds on the face. Move left around the arête at the level of a dark overlapping block, an obvious horn on the corner allows an exciting step around. Head straight up an easy break. As you reach a smooth triangular inset shield step up and right onto a semi detached block moving toward a grassy rail. Continue a balancey rightward traverse of 4m to a stack of blocks, stepping up and right around the next arête, staying on the clean rock. Belay off the smaller of the trees to the right of the balancing minifridge.

FFA: 17 Oct 2021

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