A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Marc dM Francois Pieterse Claudio De Luca Sean Cormac Tooze Carlo Antonelli Michelle Hutchinson Ken Thrash Wessel du Plooy Branden
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Chosspile
91 in Crag
- 1.1. The Man Cave 10 in Cliff
- 1.2. Harry Potter 32 in Cliff
- 1.3. Lord of The Rings 34 in Cliff
- 1.4. Wall Of Aglarond 15 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Chosspile 91 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.721491, 27.848433
description
Chosspile is a sport climbing area above the Hartbeespoort Dam, within an hour’s drive from Johannesburg. It comprises of 4 climbing sectors with grades ranging between 11 and 34. Routes at Chosspile are fully bolted and range in grade from 11 – 34, with a couple of projects which will be among the hardest in SA once opened. The height range of the routes is between 12 to 30 metres, so a 60 metre rope is sufficient. The Harry Potter area has the highest concentration of easier routes while Lord of the Rings and Man Cave are most suitable for experienced strong climbers.
access issues
Due to past safety issues, as of mid 2011 the following access arrangements were negotiated by the MCSA with Mount Amanzi, which has legal control of the land:
Only recognised climbing club members (MCSA, SANCF, or University) who have an up-to-date membership card, with a photo, are allowed to climb at the Chosspile.
Each card holder is allowed to bring two guests as current status of October 2018.
Members and guests first report to Mount Amanzi’s reception (same side of the road, but across the river from the Chosspile) where they sign an indemnity and pay R30 per card-holder and 50R per guest. Update 2019: You will receive as well the (weekly renewed) gate lock combination. The car guards will be directly at the park site instead of at the gate previously.
Although guards are paid R5 per guest, please feel free to supplement their earnings.
Note: Yearly passes are available.
For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:
Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.
ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.
approach
Walk ins are short but steep and range from about 15 minutes (Man Cave and Harry Potter) to 30 minutes (Wall of Aglarond and Lord of the Rings).
where to stay
Due to its proximity to Johannesburg, the Chosspile is ideal for a day’s outing. However, accommodation is available at Mount Amanzi:www.mountamanzi.co.za
1.1. The Man Cave 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.719611, 27.846745
approach
From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! Turn left when reaching Harry Potter, you can't miss the huge roof usually full of draws.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Megalomaniac
Starts at the left of The Man cave, traversing through a flat roof on a parallel crack to the right, ending on a lead out dash to the chains exiting the roof. 3 Bolts up, 8 across and a dash to the chains. Set: Andrew Pedley, 2012 FA: Ebert Nel, 2015 | 34 | 11 | |||
2 |
The Third Base
Open Project Starts below (right) the Megalomaniac pile. Cuts straight up the face using the obvious crack through the roofs and over the lip. Set: Ebert Nel, 2014 FA: Wesley Black, 2016 | 10 | ||||
3 |
★★ No Pants Party
Starts below the chains of the Manometer and follows the bolt line all the way to the lip of the roof and finishing on the same chains as manometer. | 30 | 7 | |||
4 |
Kleptomaniac
knee pads recommended Set: Andrey Pedley FA: Brian Weaver, 2013 | 31 | 9 | |||
5 |
Cock or Bollock
The steep line through the bulge and striped wall above. Scramble up to the ledge. Reach out for the cock (or is it a bollock?) and work up the kneebar to gain the face. Move left to the massive shake ('baby Jesus rest') on Kleptomaniac then bust up the zebra-streaked wall. Take a proper kneepad. FA: Andrey Pedley, Aug 2014 | 30 | 10 | |||
6 |
★★ Violent Streak
Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. Set: Andrew Pedley, 2012 FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 32 | 7 | |||
7 |
The Algometer Open project
Extention of The Megalomaniac. Starting on The Megalomaniac, it runs along till the last bolt of The Megalomaniac, tends gradually upward, then crosses over the last bolt of Kleptomaniac, the last bolt of Cock or Bollock (in the roof) and then follows a roof crack and ends on Violent Streak's chains. Set: Ebert Nel, 2015 | 37 | ||||
8 |
Pedo
Set: Ockert Joubert FA: Calvin Curtis, 2017 | 27 | ||||
9 |
★★ Woman's Option
FA: Neil Margetts, 2014 | 21 | 12 | |||
10 |
Drako
FA: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 21 | 2, 14 |
1.2. Harry Potter 32 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.720514, 27.847332
description
This crag is right of The Man Cave.
approach
From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! It is the first area you will reach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Drako
Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to. | 24 | 2, 14 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Bolts From The Blue
FA: Stephen Mallory, Wessel du Plooy & Cara Fleisher | 15 | 40m | |||||
3 |
★ Harry Pothead
Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux. FA: Rory lowther | 19 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Hogwart's Warted Hog
FA: Rory Lowther | 23 | 9 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Chamber Of Secrets
Set: Rory Lowther FA: Steve Dunnet | 25 | 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Dobby
Set: Debbie Mulder FA: Rory Lowther | 23 | 8 | |||||
7 |
★ Dodgy Glue
There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at. | 19 | 8 | |||||
8 |
Man Thang
.. | 24 | 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ The Philosophers Stoned
A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA). FA: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 21 | 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Hermione Puts Out
A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund. FA: Matt Hoffman, Jun 2015 | 19 | 10 | |||||
11 |
★ Harry Goes Trading
Natural Gear | 13 | ||||||
12 |
★★ Moaning Murtle
FA: Roland Magg | 23 | 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Salazar
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing. Set: David Tapp FA: Daniel Hannah, 2010 | 19 | 9 | |||||
14 |
★★ Spongify
FA: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 22 | 8 | |||||
15 |
★ Voltamor
Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb! FA: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 19 | 8 | |||||
16 |
★ Diffindo
FA: Rory Lowther | 20 | 7 | |||||
17 |
★★ The Bloody Baron
Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws. | 15 | 12 | |||||
18 |
★ Quidditch
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA). FA: Neil Margetts, 2008 | 23 | 7 | |||||
19 |
★★ The Balls of Hagrid
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA) FA: David Tapp, 2010 | 21 | 9 | |||||
20 |
★★ The Slab Of Snape
The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL. FA: Neil Margetts, 2010 | 16 | 29m, 15 | |||||
21 |
★ Harry Catastrophe Left Hand
FA: Dylan Morgan, 2004 | 13 | 20m, 9 | |||||
22 |
★ Harry Catastrophe Right Hand
Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway. FA: Mike Grant, 2004 | 15 | 20m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
★ Slitherin
FA: Rory Lawther | 14 | 10 | |||||
24 |
★ Variation of Slitherin
Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010. FA: Neil Margetts, 2008 | 18 | 20m, 9 | |||||
25 |
★ Raven's Claw
FA: Ronald Magg, 2002 | 17 | 9 | |||||
26 |
★ Muggle's Express
Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left. Set: Neil Margetts FA: Robyn John, 2014 | 16 | 8 | |||||
27 |
★ Gryffindor
FA: Rory Lawther, 2010 | 17 | 10 | |||||
28 |
★ Huff'n Puff
FA: Rory Lawther | 18 | 9 | |||||
29 |
Crookshanks
2m right of Huff 'n Puff Set: Neil Margetts, 2007 FA: Rachel Bickford, 2007 | 16 | 8 | |||||
30 |
Rowling's Ramble
8m right of Crookshanks Set: David Tapp, 2010 FA: David Tapp, 2010 | 13 | 6 | |||||
31 |
Cramcakes & Scumbags
starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start. FA: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham, 2004 | 20 | 6 | |||||
32 |
Draco's Snake
Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings. Set: David Tapp, 2010 FA: Lize Boshoff, 2010 | 11 | 6 |
1.3. Lord of The Rings 34 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.721656, 27.849904
description
This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way to the top large cave.
The crag is directly below a nest site for a pair of Verreaux Eagles (Black Eagle). During the breeding months from April to September, it may be closed if there is nesting activity. Please check on entry at the signboard by the parking if this crag is open or closed.
This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.
approach
From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! Follow the full length of Harry Potter to the right, and another 5min up.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pipe Weed
Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2005 | 22 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★ Frodo / Exit Planet Dust
Starts with Pipe Weed. Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending. First bolt is high, scramble up carefully and consider using temporarily the first bolt of Pipe Weed. Unclip once on next bolt. Set: Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver FA: Rob Brinkworth, 2005 | 18 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ A Shortcut To Mushrooms
Start outside the left corner of the cave, finishes up a highly visible yellow lichen covered face. Mostly right-facing. Pumpy start sure to get your blood flowing for greater things in the cave! FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 21 | 8 | |||||
4 |
Voices Of Saruman
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 23 | 8 | |||||
5 |
★ Gandalf
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 24 | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★ Mourn Not Overmuch
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 25 | 20m, 9 | |||||
7 |
Halfling
Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004 | 26 | 10 | |||||
8 |
★ Gollum
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 24 | 9 | |||||
9 |
Gollum Extention
2nd pitch of Gollum, rarely climbed FA: Colin Crabtree Set: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | |||||||
10 |
Big Bully
Set: Andrew Pedley & Wesley Black FA: Andrey Pedley, 2015 | 29 | 10 | |||||
11 |
★★ Bully For Brontosaurus
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1994 | 29 | 20m, 8 | |||||
12 |
★★ Tyrannosaurus Pex
FA: Willem le Roux, 2006 | 27 | 7 | |||||
13 |
In The Eye Of Smaug
Set: Ebert Nel, 2014 | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Shadowfax
Set: Pieter Martin FA: Andrew Pedley, 2013 | 33 | 9 | |||||
15 |
The Chossfather
Set: Andrew Pedley, 2012 FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 28 | 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
Don't Let Go
Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings. FA: Brian Weaver, 2012 | 28 | ||||||
17 |
★ Don't Deck
There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down. Starts at the obvious hacked stump. FA: Michael Cartwright, 1993 | 23 | 9 | |||||
18 |
Don't Deck Extension
Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel. FA: Harry Crews, 2009 | 27 | 15 | |||||
19 |
Shelob
Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now. Set: Wesley Black, 2011 FA: Wesley Black, 2013 | 24 - 26 | 8 | |||||
20 |
Anduril Flame of the West
Set: Wesley Black, 2011 FA: Joey Kinder, 2011 | 31 | 11 | |||||
21 |
★★ Fossil Fuel
FA: Ralph Brucher, 2000 | 32 | 11 | |||||
22 |
Peddle to the Metal
Project from Andrew Peddley, 33-ish Split right from 2n draw of Fossil Fuel. 7 New bolts and chains Set: Andrew Pedley, Jun 2019 | 9 | ||||||
23 |
Ralph's Open Project
Set: Ralph Brucher | |||||||
24 |
Frak-It
Set: Andrew Pedley FA: Andrew Pedley, 2014 | 31 | ||||||
25 |
Pieter Martin's Open Project
Set: Pieter Martin | |||||||
26 |
Bio DIesel
Set: Colin Crabtree FA: Andrew Pedley, 2013 | 30 | 9 | |||||
27 |
★ Grimslade
FA: Peter Lazarus | 27 | 10m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
28 | ★ Unfinished Business | 23 | 7 | |||||
29 |
★ Hobbitry In Arms
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 20 | 6 | |||||
30 |
★ Ramble On
Just to the right of the small cave roof at the far right of Lord of the Rings. | 18 | 6 | |||||
31 |
★ Hendrik And The Ents
FA: Neil Margetts, 2014 | 18 | 6 | |||||
32 |
★★★ Lord of the Ring Sting
Left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. Technical thin climbing to arete. End on same face as SCTM, stay left. Has its own anchors. FA: Carlo Antonelli, 28 Jan | 22 | 20m | |||||
33 |
★★★ My Precious Pex
T-Pex/Gollum link up. Start on T-Pec Direct, move left and end on Gollum, Gollum hole is out. FA: Carlo Antonelli, 10 Dec | 25 | 20m, 9 | |||||
34 |
★★★ T-Pex Direct
Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave! FA: Wesley Black, 2008 | 29 | 20m, 12 |
1.4. Wall Of Aglarond 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.722907, 27.849713
description
This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.
approach
From the parking area follow the well-marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up! Keep right past Harry Potter and Lord of the Rings, then further right across a gully and across a huge dead tree. Seventeen is shortly after that, keeping left. The rest is much lower, and the path faint: come back from 17 towards the gully, then down. Alternatively, using the gully works.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Seventeen
This is a solitary route on a face between the Lord of the Rings cave and Wall of Aglarond, left of the path. First bolt is quite high. FA: Michael Cartwright, 1993 | 17 | 20m, 8 | |||||
2 | Mina's Truth | 22 | 8 | |||||
3 | Shorty | 18 | 8 | |||||
4 | Unknown | 16 | 8 | |||||
5 |
The King Of The Golden Hall
Keep mostly left, and don't use some really close bolts from Mr Gamgee. FA: 2003 | 17 | 9 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Mr Gamgee
FA: 2003 | 20 | 9 | |||||
7 |
★ Tarrawankie
Starts just left of the tree at the base. Beehive right of this route, be careful. Bees are less active in the late afternoon. (none seen on 2019-08-10) FA: 2002 | 19 | 9 | |||||
8 |
★ Legolas
Starts just right of the tree at the base. FA: 2002 | 22 | 14 | |||||
9 | ★★ Lady Of Lorien | 22 | 11 | |||||
10 | ★ Aragorn | 21 | 14 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | Unknown 22/23 | 23 | 4 | |||||
12 |
Smeagol
On the arete | 23 | 7 | |||||
13 |
★★ Middle Earth
Up the gully, pleasant climb. Set: Neil Margetts FA: Lindsay Gaydon, 2008 | 12 | 9 | |||||
14 |
Sauron
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. Last bolt below the anchors has no hanger. FA: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smith, 2002 | 18 | 8 | |||||
15 |
Blue Flowers
Starts about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle. Single anchor point with a rap ring. Set: Rob Brinkworth, 2012 FA: Rob Brinkworth, 2012 | 16 | 10m, 6 |