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Crags of Joy

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 35

Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

https://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-2

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 21 days ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the crack on the free standing boulder.

FA: G. Holwill, 2007

Climb the face to the left of Facebook

Set: Ryan Graefe

FA: S. Noy, 2011

Up the dihedral then finish up the face.

FA: G. Holwill, 2007

Climbs the arête right of Facebook

FA: G. Holwill, 2007

FA: K. Rycroft, 2008

Climbs the crack.

FA: Graham Shillington, 2007

FA: J. Samson, 2007

The wall right of Myspace

FA: S. Noy, 2014

Start from a nook to the right of a tree. Head diagonally left behind the tree, then straight up to a roof. Place good pro at the decent holds just over the lip. A couple of thin, strenuous moves gain you the headwall. Head up and a little right, past rails and a pocket, to the top. Beware, there may be some loose rock low down.

FA: Phlip Olivier, Willem le Roux & Danie Moolman, 4 Apr 2015

Pull off the ground on good rails. Pass the blank section with a long reach off an undercling. Place a blue alien (or equivalent) in the undercling feature to prevent a ground fall. A series of stretchy moves takes you past a ledge to the top. May be harder if you are vertically challenged.

FA: Danie Moolman, Willem le Roux; Phlip Olivier, W. leRoux & D. Moolman, 4 Apr 2015

Next valley right of Fields of Joy Driving into the campsite you can see an orange/brown wall on the right of Fields of Joy.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Jul 2019

Next valley right of Fields of Joy Driving into the campsite you can see an orange/brown wall on the right of Fields of Joy.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Jul 2019

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