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Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

https://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-2

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Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago

Summary

Trad area. After summiting the pass and heading down to De Pakhuys, on your left.

Description

Trad area. After summiting the pass and heading down to De Pakhuys, on your left.

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 21 25m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m
4 22 30m

A multi-pitch route on the left side of the pass as you drive down toward De Pakhys campsite. There is a convenient layby you can park at and take the line of least resistance to walk up the slope. The route starts more or less in the middle of the wall on the darker brown rock near a left-facing recess with a roof a few meters up.

Some great climbing on the last two pitches, but shark infested territory lower down. Two abseils with 60m ropes get you back down.

Not much information on the climbing in this area. There was some ancient tat on the ledge after pitch 2 about 10m of pitch 2 stance so some climbing has been done on this wall before.

  1. ±25m (21). Up the blocky features to the roof and pull through a break and step left to a small ledge. Head straight up past the right side of the low roof. To avoid getting into a pickle, embrace the surrounding fragility and tread lightly but confidently onwards until you reach a good rail. Move up and left to a vague recess which is followed to rail, traverse right to a small stance on a narrow ledge.

  2. ±25m (18) Move up and slightly right from stance to stay on the most solid rock. More or less straight up to a ledge (rap tat around a touchpoint)

  3. ±25m (19) From the stance, again head up more or less straight aiming for a wide horizontal break. Step right and pull up on improving rock quality to a neat ledge.

  4. ±30m (22) Bester than sex pitch. Walk slightly right from the stance and romp up steep orange rock, tending ever so slightly right. Pull through the final narrow roof and up to a vegetated ledge - tat around a small tree.

Two abseils save a long walk so you are not too late for the party.

FA: R. Halsey, S. Nightingale & R. Strate, 13 Aug 2019

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