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Diagnon Alley

  • Grade context: FR

Description

A kloof (gorge) hidden to the right of the 'Rooikat Muur'

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Approach

At the Rooikat Muur, walk to the far right, cross a small gulley scrambling along a ledge to a big block. Mantle onto the block and mantle onto the ledge to the left, following the path to the cliff line where you will come across 'The Leaky Cauldron' Climb 'The Leaky Cauldron' to enter 'Diagon Alley' The chains can later be used for an abseil anchor to descend all the way to the base of the 'Rooikat Muur' safely.

An alternative approach to 'Diagon Alley' can be taken via the Office's back door, traversing the top of the crag and entering via the back of the gulley.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Front entrance to 'Diagon Alley'

FA: E. Nel

Leftmost line. Big jugs!!!

Maint: E. Nel, 2020

FA: P. van der Merwe, 2020

FA: E. Nel, 2020

FA: Peter van der Merwe, 2020

Maint: E. Nel, 2020

FA: A. Bester, 2020

FA: E. Nel, 2020

On the right of the crag. So you think you can climb slab?

FA: E. Nel, 2020

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