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Courage Valley

  • Grade context: FR

Description

This area is to the right of Hope Buttress as viewed from De Pakhuis.

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 20 30m
2 20 25m
  1. Citadel (20) Pitch

  2. 30m (20) Follow good holds just right of the small corner in the centre of the wall. Continue straight up through a steep section and then the face above to a roof. Rail left and mantle onto a ledge, then up to the next ledge and walk left to below the crack through the bulge. Pitch

  3. 25m ( 20) Climb the crack and then straight up to a ledge. Continue up the exposed face above. Scramble over the back down to the lower ledge to find the rap point above Sky Tower.

FA: S. Nightingale & R. Halsey, Jun 2018

1 22 45m
2 24 20m
  1. 45m (22) Start from a large boulder at the right side of the wall. Follow a series of narrow corners and fins to the roof which is passed on the right. Continue past another roof on the right and up to the ledge. Pitch

  2. 20m (24) Climb straight up the centre of the dark red wall, following a series of horizontal rails. At two-thirds height there is a tricky, committing sequence (micro cams useful) to go straight up to the top. Bailing right will be easier and safer, but less cool.

FA: R. Halsey & A. Gietl, Sep 2013

Aesthetic face climbing. A slightly committing start onto the face leads to the intermittent vertical crack in the middle of the wall. Follow the crack and where it peters out continue straight up the orange rock (crux) to a wide rail. Move slightly right and up the grey rock to finish.

FA: R. Halsey, Aug 2015

Starts to the right of 'One Life Stand' and takes the easiest way into the narrow corner and up to the bush ledge.

FA: A. Bester, Aug 2015

The Fort is a little way to the right of The Castle

1 15 10m
2 22 25m
  1. 10m (15) Scramble up into the sandy cleft and then up the wide crack on the right-hand wall to reach a ledge below the crack.

  2. 25m (22) Climb into the crack (some sandy sections) and follow it all the way to the top.

FA: S. Nightingale & R. Halsey, Jun 2018

Follow a series of layback holds between horizontal breaks to gain a dark brown triangular recess. Move up this and exit up and right onto the face. Head straight up and slightly left to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & S. Nightingale, Jun 2018

Move easily up and right to reach a hand crack through a small bulge. Pull through and then right to follow the easiest line up to a narrow roof up high. Pass this on the left, then straight to the top.

FA: S. Nightingale & R. Halsey, Jun 2018

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Activity

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