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Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Open project.

Irregular moves through a roof, jugs, with a spicy slab at the top.

Set: Ebert Nel, 2020

Think I agree with initial consensus of 29. Contender for best at this grade I've done in the cape. Quite brutal yet delicate 7A-ish start to a good rest, followed by some pumpy monkey business and another desperate mid crux. Then some fun throws to a final delicate slab crux right below the chains. Although tempting, I stuck left at the end as per bolter's intention, avoiding the cop-out jug exit. Thanks to Pete for having an eye for this truly unique future classic - Robin Klintworth (FA)

Set: Peter van der Merwe, 2020

FA: Robin Klintworth, 15 May 2022

A technical masterpiece. Starts on the corner then move out left and up.

FA: Alex Bester, 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tony Lourens

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780987040343

This is a selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing found in the Western Cape of South Africa, covering over 1,350 routes

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