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The Arch

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 63
  • Aka: Sex Etiquette

Seasonality

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Description

The right wall of the corridor as you face it coming from the plateaus.

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit-start with left hand on sidepull and right hand on crimp and climb up. "Got its name from a 12 hr road-trip to the Namibian border and back"

FA: Scott Noy, 2007

Start as Just One Second, climb up left to the top

FA: Helen Gosnell, 2022

Climb the arch from the left.

FA: Scott Noy, 2007

Sit-start with jug and traverse to the right through the arch.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start as Man or Machine, do one move right and climb up on good slopers.

Note that many videos and online logs have this route confused with Arch Valley (7a). This route goes up left and is rated 6a in the guide book.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start as Sex Etiquette and end on Man or Machine via the pinches and roof horn on the far side

FA: Oan De Waal, 2021

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Mantle onto the ledge and climb out leftwards through the arch.

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start as Sex Etiquette but from the ledge jump to the top.

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Sit-start with large rail, move up to crimps and dyno up left.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Sit-start with crimps, move up to good holds and dyno up to the lip.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

From a large horn climb through the arch and up the black face.

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start as Arch Baby but climb out right without using the large shelf.

FA: Florian Murning, 2007

Sit Down Start. Both hands on large shelf. Climb up right using in-cut edges to top out.

Video

Sit-start and climb up the slopey bulge.

FA: Scott Noy, 2012

Start as Man or Machine but climb up right on crimps and finish as Sex Etiquette.

FA: Rafael Passos, 2011

Start under the arch with edge, climb out left and finish as Machine or Freak.

Video

FA: Jens Gad, 2012

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Activity

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