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N: Kiesl Boulder

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 34

Seasonality

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Description

The massive boulder that meets you on top of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start with right hand on crimp, jump to a pocket and climb up.

FA: jump to a pocket, climb up. & Klem Loskot, 2005

Sit-start on the rock and climb into Singha Braga

Sit-start from the low rail and climb into Singha Braga.

FA: Matt Wilder, 2007

Climb the left-hand crack.

Sit-start with shelf and mantle into Looking for Freedom

Sit-start with large slot and climb the right-hand crack.

Video

Sit-start under the roof and traverse left into Sale in Execution

Sit-start on rock with thin seam, move to slopey hole and top-out.

FA: Thomas Bartl, 2005

Sit-start on the right and join Swiss Secret.

Climb up to the right of the arete.

From the large pyramid-shaped hold climb up

Start as Kiesl but climb diagonally right and dyno up high.

Start as Monastery but continue traversing out right

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with slots, climb out right to sloper and finish up right on good breaks. A variation climbs out left and up the arete.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start with break, move up to the next break and top-out.

Start as Swiss Secret Deluxe but finish left on small crimps.

FA: Geir Söderin & Peter Magnusson, 2014

Start for Kiesl, traverse right and finish as for Gegen den Wind

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start below the roof, climb out left and up on slopers. "Get the name and you'll get the problem"

Video

FA: Klem Loskot et. al, 2005

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