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S: No Late Tenders

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 25

Seasonality

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Description

Dirty Lies Boulder

Access issues inherited from Rocklands

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Ethic inherited from Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Routes

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Grade Route

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start and climb through the roof using large hueco.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Sit-start with the arête, traverse right and join Dirty Lies. "Named after a late night drunken tradition"

FA: Jon Reading, 2008

Climb Dirty Lies but from the large hueco exit out right.

FA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2008

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start as Dirty Lies but climb diagonally right through the roof. "The tendering process for the management of Kliphuis Campground inspired this name"

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Climb the high slab starting right of the small tree.

Sit-start below slanting arete and climb up left on sloping holds.

FA: Scott Noy, 2008

Jump to sloper, move up to the break and traverse out left. "A popular Rum sold in South Africa"

FA: Morgan Boissenot, 2009

Start with right hand on pinch, jump to good left hand and climb the overhanging arete. "Serious highball"

FA: Cody Roth, 2009

Climb No Late Tenders but exit as Running Out of Turbo.

FA: Armin Buchtoithner, 2010

Start with underclings on the right side of the cave and climb left to meet and finish of Dirty Lies.

FA: Rob D'Anastasio, 2011

Start as no late benders but finish as Awanda

FA: Evan Margetts, 2018

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