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Block Buttress

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 12

Access: COVID-19 lockdown Alert level 3

Adjusted Level 3 regulations as gazetted in Gazette 44044 of 29 December 2020, as amended by Gazette 44051 of 29 December 2020, Gazette 44066 of 11 January 2021 and Gazette 44130 of 1 February 2021.

http://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-3

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 10 weeks ago
14

Seasonality

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F
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A
M
J
J
A
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D

Access issues inherited from Rooiberg

This crag is on private property. Permits for non resident at Nuwerust.

Ethic inherited from Rooiberg

Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 15 30m
2 18 15m
3 15 30m
4 18 A0 15m
5 15 30m

FA: Scurvy & D. Mercer, 5 Nov 2011

FA: T. Lourens, 2008

1 15 20m
2 15 35m
3 8 20m
4 15 15m
5 15 35m

A fantastic route, highly recomended. It is in the shade for much of the day, great summer climbing.

Start: At an obvious crack on the left hand side of Block Buttress.

  1. 20m (15) Climb the crack to an easy and obvious traverse. Follow the traverse right and climb up to a bolted stance.

  2. 35m (15) Climb up and left onto a shattered shelf. Follow the shelf to the left and where it runs out do a scary pull over (very exposed) and continue up to a ledge on the right. (Pitch could be broken here.) Climb the undercut corner/crack at the base of the ledge, then go diagonally up and left across a face split by horizontal rails. At the left side of the face continue straight up the arete to a good ledge above and to the right. This is at the right hand base of the blocky pyramid that provides the key to this route.

  3. 20m (8) Scramble up and to the left to the top of the blocky pyramid.

  4. 15m (15) Climb up into the recess on the right, reach high for an excellent rail and move acros the corner onto the face on the left, directly above the belayer. Continue straight up a vague recess to a narrow ledge under another large roof.

  5. 35m (15) Traverse easily to the right for 6 or 7m, then climb up to a rail beneath a roof and traverse back left for 3 or 4m to bypass the overhangs. Climb straight to the top. There is a great tree to use as an anchor.

FA: D. Mercer & Scurvy, 2010

FA: R. Breyer, 2008

Can use the anchors on ETAGQS to descend.

FA: Richard Halsey, Jan 2018

FA: T. Lourens, 2008

FA: Richard Halsey & Tim Dunnet, Jan 2018

FA: H Davies & K. Davies, 2008

FA: Richard Halsey, Jun 2016

FA: T. Lourens, 2008

FA: J. Orton & D. Robinson, 2009

FA: J. Orton & A. Hall, 2009

FA: Richard Halsey & Tim Dunnet, Jan 2018

FA: S. Davis & B. Spottiswoode, 2009

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