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Access issues inherited from Rooiberg

This crag is on private property. Permits for non resident at Nuwerust.

Ethic inherited from Rooiberg

Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 18
2 21
3 24

FA: R. Zipplies & Richard Halsey, 2010

1 18 45m
2 15 25m
3 17 20m
4 14 20m

A very popular route.

The route starts near the point where the approach trail gets to the rock face in a big red recess below the right hand end of the big roof. At this point the trail turns left and follows the rock face up. A convenient block on the ledge, about 5m up a ramp from the trail, marks the start of the route on the right hand wall of the recess.

  1. 45m (18) Climb straight up from the ledge to a wide shallow crack with a loose block at the bottom. Climb the crack to it's end and then go left to a large flake. Climb the flake and a smaller one above it and continue straight up the recess to a wide rail. Above the rail is a small roof. Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left (a finger crack a metre to the left has a good layback hold (crux)). Continue up the short off-width crack through the overhang above. Continue up to large ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Climb up and left under a large roof. Traverse left using the rail under the roof and decent footholds. Turn the roof on the far left and continue up easily to a large ledge. The next pitch starts 5m to the right below a narrow flaring crack that splits the roof above with a finger crack half a meter left of it.

  3. 20m (17) Climb the above-mentioned finger crack. Hand swing to the right under the roof and do an awkward move to gain the ledge to the right of the roof. Climb the chimney above the ledge and move to the face on the left when it narrows after a few meters. Follow a crack to another roof then move out onto the face on the right and climb straight up to bushy ledge above.

  4. 20m (14) 6m to the right is an obvious break in the face - this is climbed by the last pitch of Blunt Brothers. Climb up 2m to the left of this, pulling through a small roof on good jugs. Climb straight up until you can scramble easily to the top.

FA: D. Mercer & Scurvy, 2010

A fantastic meander on superb rock. Easier than it looks all the way. Every pitch a classic! Highly recommended.

The route starts at the same place as Swazi Kings and tends to the right

  1. 30m (F3/16) Climb up a few metres before starting a long climbing traverse to the right crossing Crackattack just above it's first cruxy roof. Continue to a ledge that runs out to the front of the buttress. Climb up and right following a stepped recess to a ledge at the base of an obvious off-width corner crack.

  2. 15m (F3/16) Climb the corner, using the off-width where necessary and good hold on the face to the left. At the top of the off-width bunch up under an overhang and using a good undercling turn the overhang on the left. Continue up to the large balcony ledge above. The next pitch starts a couple of meters to the right and follows the undercut and blocky right hand arete.

  3. 20m (F3/16) Stepping off a protruding shelf (cairn) climb straight up the blocky arete and continue up to the long ledge above. Walk to the right. Continue past Blunt Brothers recess for some 30m to a point just before the next large recess starts. There is a square block on the ledge below a short vertical crack capped by a low overhang breaking right.

  4. 20m (F3/16) Climb up to the overhang and rail right and pull up onto a protruding square block. Climb diagonally up and right onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete easily and continue past a ledge to a higher ledge below a steepening in the face.

  5. 30m( F3/16) Traverse to the right following the ledge to the off-width corner crack. Climb up a couple of metres till able to move right onto the face to the right of the off-width. Pull through a low overhang and continue up the deceptively easy face to the top.

FA: D. Mercer & Scurvy, 25 Jan 2014

FA: D. Mercer & Scurvy, 5 Nov 2011

FA: Scurvy & D. Mercer, 4 Nov 2011

1 15 30m
2 15 40m
3 14 20m
4 17 16m
5 14 20m

FA: D. Mercer & Scurvy, 2010

1 16 25m
2 18 35m
3 16 45m
4 14 12m
5 19 30m

FA: Scurvy, D.Mercer & G. Dondel, 2010

1 15 35m
2 15 55m
3 15 45m

FA: Nicholas Le Maitre, Tristan Firman & Justine Cole

This is a spicy alternative to the first part of the second pitch of "That's what she said". It starts one meter to the right of the anchor of the first pitch. Climb a small dark red groove/face to a small roof. Pull through the roof to a recess and climb up using side pulls to a slightly bigger roof. Traverse left on a small rail passing through a small bush ( I suggest the next person climbing this to clean the small rail with a nut pick so the gear placement will be much better). Head to a good hold with no good foot holds and pull up to a sloper (high reach/crux). Climb straight up to a comfortable ledge.

FA: Renato da Costa & Justine Cole, 5 Oct 2019

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